Mason versus Nex Gen hobby evaporators

[Mike Koranda]

I need help deciding on an evaporator. I have been boiling sap with a converted wood stove and a round stainless steel tub for 10 years. I have decided to build a Sugar Shack and purchase a commercial evaporative. Please forgive all my questions since I have never even seen a commercial set up.
1. How do the Mason and NexGen compare?
2. What exactly is "reverse flow" and what are the advantages to it?
3. Is it possible to vent the steam out of the Sugar Shack with a large hood instead of having a Copula on the roof?
Thank you for your advice.

Mike Koranda
218-525-5528

[Jcrawfo]

I have a 2x3 mason with a blower and love it. I have a little over 40 taps on it and that's enough on the big runs. It boils 10 GPS consistently. It is not set up for reverse draw. I clean the pan every 2 or 3 boils depending on how bad the niter is. From what I have read reverse draw really isn't practice on these small pans. Reverse draw changes the sap flow so the niter doesn't build up on just one side. I guess you could use a hood of some sort over the pan if you wanted. Just have to make sure you can see in there to check your sap level etc...

[Urban Sugarmaker]

I have a Mason 2x4 XL with reverse flow and I can tell you I am very glad I spent the extra money on reverse flow. You'll spend less time cleaning your pan during the season. From my experience, reversing the flow had a much more dramatic effect on dissolving niter than I though it would. On the other hand, If you don't want to lay out extra money for that feature, you can can simply drain it, scrub, and rinse. I highly recommend calling Bill Mason on the phone and discussing it with him. He can help clear up anything you might be fussing over. As for NextGen, I don't know much about them, but I have seen at least one evaporator and it was very well-made.

You asked what reverse flow is. All it means is changing the side you feed and draw off from. When you switch, raw sap helps dissolve niter build-up where you were previously drawing off syrup. It helps make cleaning easier and also helps avoid scorching or creating a "niter" off-flavor (I have not experienced this).

I vented steam through the roof by cutting a rectangular hole and building a hinged hatch over it. It was kind of involved with all the flashing and integrating to the existing shingles. It works great but I get rain and sometimes ash that comes in and lands on the pan. Not enough to make me rebuild but a cupola is better if you can do that.

[Mike Koranda]

I have a 2x3 mason with a blower and love it. I have a little over 40 taps on it and that's enough on the big runs. It boils 10 GPS consistently. It is not set up for reverse draw. I clean the pan every 2 or 3 boils depending on how bad the niter is. From what I have read reverse draw really isn't practice on these small pans. Reverse draw changes the sap flow so the niter doesn't build up on just one side. I guess you could use a hood of some sort over the pan if you wanted. Just have to make sure you can see in there to check your sap level etc...

Thank you for your help with this. I am glad you got the mason with the blower. It is exactly what I am most likely to get. My thought on the hood is to have it high over the pan with a blower to suck out the steam.
From what you have said about reverse draw it seems that all it does is let the niter build up on both sides so that cleaning the niter would be half as often.
Again, forgive me for my ignorance about commercial evaporators but could you describe the process you use to boil a batch of syrup?
Also, please let me know what kind of wood you are using to boil 10 gallons per second!! I am just kidding as I know you meant 10 gallons per hour!
Thank you, again, for your help
Mike

[Mike Koranda]

Thank you for your reply! Your suggestion to call Mr. Mason is well taken and I will do just that.
Mike

[brass maple]

I'm sure that that was 10 gallons per hour. If it was per second I'm doing something terribly wrong lol

[Jcrawfo]

I wish it was 10 gps on some nights. I use it as a continous flow set up and draw syrup right off the evaporator. It will take around 80 gal of sap to sweeten the pan but after that you should be drawing on a regular basis. Before I shut down I draw off about 2 quarts of the sweet stuff and save it for the next time I boil. I usually run about an 1" deep, you might want to go a little deeper at first. When I start up I boil till the level gets down to an inch then start adding the sweet stuff a little at a time so you don't kill your boil. Put it right in front of the draw off box. When thermometer hits 219 I start drawing real slow, just a trickle until the temp drops below 219 then I stop. I test it with hydrometer adjust for density then into the filter/canner. The draws are usually around a quart but have ranged anywhere from a pint to three quarts.

I use the pre heater pan that comes with it. It sits on top of the pan. I have a gravity feed into it from head tank with a valve to control flow. I use the valve on pre heater pan too adjust depth of pan. Usually don't have to play with it to much once you get going other than when you draw off you have to kick it up a little.

Hope this helps, sometimes I don't explained to good.

[claystroup]

Fire Wood Chopper: Thanks for all the good tips as I am a newbie and looking to order a Mason 2 x 3 XL w/blower in the next couple of weeks for next year. I have a couple questions if you don't mind: 1) wanted to clarify that you boil off about 80 gallons of sap to get to the point where the material left in the pan gets to the verge of making syrup to draw off continuously-is that correct? If so, then you are boiling about 8 hrs or so initially before syrup is made?; 2) Do you reverse your flow from side to side on your pan every time you shut down and then start back up?; 3) You mentioned that you draw off about 2 qts at the end of the run and save till your next run. Do you dump in this 2 qts nearest to the drawoff valve you are going to use on the next run or pour it in at the back of the pan? Thanks for all the good info-Clay

[Jcrawfo]

Yes it takes around 80 or so gallons before you start drawing off. Depending on the sugar content it could be more or less. I have just the regular 2x3 not the xl so I have no reverse draw. I dump the 2 quarts a little at a time next to my draw off box. But your correct if you have reverse draw you dump it on the side you are going to draw off of. One more thing with the blower you don't want to run it wide open you will melt down your stack. I have a little piece of wood I put in front of the intake to limit air. Usually run it half open.