Fittings for Holding Tanks

[gagnon91]

What do people use for fittings on their holding tanks? I tried to use PVC last season and the shut off valve cracked on me. :cry: It was a sad day because I obviously lost the entire contents of the tank.

[tuckermtn]

can you clarify what type of holding tanks you are using? round bottom, IBC totes, etc.

i use a mish mash of brass and stainless ball valves. have had frozen valves we have had to reheat, but never cracked valves. i stay away from pvc because you cannot use a torch to thaw them out

[maple flats]

If these are bulk milk tanks I actually like the original type butterfly valve they had. If you need a replacement, they aren't cheap, but if you go the price you won't be let down loosing another load. Before I went with the "real thing" I also lost a load, with a SS ball valve. There the issue is if the valve is full inside the ball when it is closed. If not, rarely an issue but if it is full the valve can crack because there is no place to take up the expansion as it freezes. Follow this link, it is where I bought 2 this year : http://hambydairysupply.com/xcart/altered_search.php?page=1&q=milk+tank+valves&x=14&y=10
You just need to ID the size and type. They are aftermarket, I think what I got said they were made in Germany. I needed 2 @ 1.5", Acme thread x thread. Once thru the valve I used a SS nipple that fits the valve and then to 1.5" milk hose which I picked up locally. Mine were $249 ea.. They are high quality valves, it seems Sunset , surge and maybe others don't make that valve any more. If the local dealer could have gotten one he said the price was about $425 each.
If you have IBC totes, check out this link: http://bascousa.com/container-components/ibc-parts/valves/ They also have other replacement parts
On my Milk tank valve that I've had since my first tank, it froze several times over the years until I turned the head tank and put it tight against the sugarhouse, with a cut out for the valve. This usually kept it from freezing, but if it does it is handier to thaw out. I just use a propane torch and keep the flame moving all the time until flow I can turn the valve handle and get flow. Don't heat in one place enough to cook the o-ring. On the 2 tanks with the new valves, they are feeding 1.5" milk hose, and are protected with a heat tape. Those never froze, I think the head tank valve froze 1 time this season, but it thawed with no damage to the valve or the seals using the propane torch.
If you have some other type of valve you need, try to describe what it goes on and I may be able to guide you to the source.
As tuckermtn said, stay away from PVC (for this use).

[maple flats]

By the way, I did successfully use 2 1.5" PVC valves where freezing is a real issue. At the roadside end of my TF line (1.5") I did use PVC valves. I have 2 in tandem (only about 6" apart). To use the setup I close the uphill valve and drain from there to the end by opening the downhill valve. When empty, I close the drained valve and open the uphill valve. Now the lower valve ball is empty and that closed valve holds back the flow, while the uphill valve is full and can freeze, but in the tubing connecting to the valve there is plenty of give to take the freezing.
While the valves never fail that way, that is the line I have freezing issues with and have a hard time thawing to pump sap. If my calculations are correct, the line at 850' of 1.5" holds nearly 90 gal of sap. I don't want to drain the line and lose that much sap, but this season I had 1 time when I finally got the sap to flow with the 850 gal tank on the hill at about 1-1.5" from overflowing. On that line I can't use a torch of heat tape. First of all, 850' is too long for a heat tape, and besides I have no power there. For thawing some of it is suspended too high off the ground as it goes along the side of a ravine coursing it's way to the road for anyone to reach.

[eagle lake sugar]

I've used all pvc and have had no problems yet. My sap tank and concentrate tank valves are in my r/o room which is heated, but one permeate tank valve is outside and hasn't split. I guess I've just been lucky, but a permeate loss wouldn't be the end of the world.

[SeanD]

I used the PVC valve that came with the 275 gal tote. I wrapped a 3' heat tape around it for the season. It has a thermostat that kicks it on when it drops below 38 deg.

Sean

[markct]

I use a mix of stainless and pvc either will split with a full ball of sap. You need to either close the valve when empty only or if you have to close it when tank is part full then you need to put a camlock cap on the end and open the valve back up so it wont freeze and split.

[Super Sapper]

I've read where people drill a hole in the ball on the downstream side when closed and this allows the valve to drain enough to allow expansion when freezing.

[maple flats]

It seems like that might work, but could you drill a hole and make it smooth enough so turning it would not score the seal?

[BAP]

I have used fittings like these on my various tanks over the last 30 years. There is several companies that make them. They take freezing very well and can be heated using hot water or carefully using a propane torch. With a torch you have to gently heat them being careful to keep moving the flame around. They are very rugged fittings and much better than PVC fittings.

http://www.norwesco.com/products/valves-couplers-accessories/bolted-ball-valves
http://www.norwesco.com/products/valves-couplers-accessories/bulkhead-fittings
http://www.norwesco.com/products/valves-couplers-accessories/polypropylene-fittings
http://www.norwesco.com/products/valves-couplers-accessories/cam-action

[gagnon91]

Thanks for the info