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epd0407
03-15-2015, 05:53 PM
So are you removing the pump completely or just shutting it down on below 32 nights? I only put the tubing on the first barb with intentions of removal now i cant get the 3/4 off. I shut the pump down. Next to nothing has been pumped through so im assuming ill be fine? Thoughts?

NTBugtraq
03-15-2015, 08:19 PM
So are you removing the pump completely or just shutting it down on below 32 nights? I only put the tubing on the first barb with intentions of removal now i cant get the 3/4 off. I shut the pump down. Next to nothing has been pumped through so im assuming ill be fine? Thoughts?

This is my first season on low vac, so take my words with caution. My understanding is that ice and diaphragm don't mix. So, if you don't run it when there might be ice, you should be safe. If you have a filter before the pump, but don't ensure the pump contents don't freeze, you're asking for problems. I have house power at my pump house so I put a light inside an insulated pump box to ensure nothing in there ever freezes, whether I leave it on or not. My pump is mounted on the floor, so bringing it in at night is more hassle than if it was mounted on a wall, say. If you just shut it down, but leave it out to freeze, then ice crystals could form inside the diaphragm, and potentially cause problems when you fire it up if they have not all thawed.

btw, personally, I would go with quick connects rather than unclamping and wiggling on the barbs every day. The quick connects I got are basically just a food grade white poly union with an O-ring inside.

pennslytucky
03-15-2015, 08:25 PM
if the pump is full of sap and it gets cold enough to freze that sap, it may break the housing. leave it run all night or keep it warm somehow

Clinkis
03-15-2015, 08:29 PM
Last year I left mine out and discovered that there was still some sap in it which froze. When I turned it back on it sounded fine but wouldn't pump. Luckily once it thawed it worked fine. Ever since then I always bring them in if its going below freezing. I have quick connector on mind and can remove it in a couple secs. Unfortunately there is no way to drain these pumps unless you dismantle it.

epd0407
03-15-2015, 09:13 PM
Where do the quick connects come from?

Clinkis
03-15-2015, 09:18 PM
Where do the quick connects come from?
I used garden hose quick connectors. You can buy them and the connectors and adapters from Home Depot

NTBugtraq
03-15-2015, 09:31 PM
Where do the quick connects come from?

Do you have a supplier of maple syrup fittings? I'm in Ontario so my supplier will suck for you, but CDL does sell them, and no doubt other maple fitting suppliers do also.

epd0407
03-16-2015, 05:35 AM
NTB My closest supplier is 60 miles away, otherwise I pay shipping. I was there last week with the pump and they had no disconnects. Im just going to make my way over to HD and grab the hose disconnect. Hell, I grew up drinking out of the hose and im not dead yet. A quick connect made of brass cant be all that bad.

Clinkis
03-16-2015, 06:27 AM
Mine are plastic.

CampHamp
03-16-2015, 04:03 PM
I let my pump run until lines are frozen and rely on the strainer to block ice. Air passes through the ice as it freezes and clears the pump chamber. It's my third season with this pump and I have not had to replace the diaphragm yet. I use a $7 thermostatic switch.

The down-side to this technique is that I have a 10' column of ice in the morning that takes some time to thaw out. Some of my trees start flowing before that section of mainline is clear.

TerryEspo
03-17-2015, 08:00 AM
I used a cheap plastic toolbox for my pump, insulated it with reflective bubble wrap insulation. There is lots of room left inside the box. I then have room for 3-4 water bottles (hot water),and I also use the head off a sludge hammer that I get very hot and place that inside the box at the front by the screen filter. The hammer head stays warm for a good 30-40 mins.
I cover it all up with a cardboard cover, a rag and close the lid.



In 10 minutes (coffee time),I open it up and it is Florida warm inside the box, works great and is an easy procedure.

When I am done with the water bottles, I then pour that water on any ice I see in the blue lines, lol.

I found that taking the pump inside and disconnecting it was to much of a pain.

Hope that can help someone.

Good luck.

Terry

Burnt sap
03-17-2015, 10:11 AM
I tried to find the thread for you but no such luck. Somebody on here has a picture of a light in a box with the pump. Keeps everything from freezing up. Nice idea. Maybe a moderator could find it for you just ask.

DaveB
03-17-2015, 11:25 AM
I tried to find the thread for you but no such luck. Somebody on here has a picture of a light in a box with the pump. Keeps everything from freezing up. Nice idea. Maybe a moderator could find it for you just ask.

Do you mean this one?

http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?22328-1st-Day-Sap-Puller&p=269356#post269356

OakCorner
03-17-2015, 12:35 PM
I let my pump run until lines are frozen and rely on the strainer to block ice. Air passes through the ice as it freezes and clears the pump chamber. It's my third season with this pump and I have not had to replace the diaphragm yet. I use a $7 thermostatic switch.

The down-side to this technique is that I have a 10' column of ice in the morning that takes some time to thaw out. Some of my trees start flowing before that section of mainline is clear.

Hi Jamie,
Just wondering what thermostat switch you are using and where you bought it. I've been looking for one for this purpose but I can't find one that will switch on at colder temperatures. I'm assuming you'd want it to switch on right around 32deg? Thanks.

vtgaryw
03-17-2015, 02:26 PM
I use this one I got on eBay, there's a ton of them for around $ 10 or so:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Digital-LED-Temperature-Controller-Temp-w-Sensor-Thermostat-Control-Relay-/121438977331?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4653bd33

Unfortunately, the cheap ones all seem to come from Hong Kong or China, so you may not get it quickly.

It works great! not only can you program the off set point, but you can also program a delta for turning it back on from the off point. That way you can program is to shut off at say -1 deg C, but not come back on until +1 or +2, giving the lines time to thaw.

I didn't have the thermostat last year, on very cold nights I took it in, but otherwise I left it out. I also put a light in the box, never had a problem. The nice thing about this setup is that you can still keep drawing sap even if it drops a little below freezing.

Gary

Gary

CampHamp
03-17-2015, 09:54 PM
Just wondering what thermostat switch you are using and where you bought it.

I use one like this (http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-Waterproof/dp/B00KCCX0EE/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1426646951&sr=8-24&keywords=Temperature+switch+12V), but if I were to do it now then I would get one with housing (http://www.amazon.com/Lerway-All-Purpose-Fermentation-Temperature-Controller/dp/B008KVGWT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426647045&sr=8-2&keywords=Temperature+switch+12V) (like Gary's) for a few extra bucks.

MartinP
03-18-2015, 05:45 AM
You could use an stc-1000. Wire so one side goes off and the other goes on. Turn off pump at 31.5 turn on light bulb in housing to keep pump above freezing. Just make sure to keep thermostat outside