2X3 Question

[Tyler]

I was close to burning my pan yesterday but caught it just in time. This is my first year with a Mason 2X3 evaporator with a batch boil pan and pre-heater. My question is once I run out of sap and the concentrate in the pan is at a point to pull it off, how do I empty the pan without burning it? Yesterday, I lifted up the pan in the far corner so that the concentrate would all run to the valve, but some ran back and that is where it burnt the pan. Im figuring there has to be a better way and Im sure someone here has the knowledge. Thanks for the help!!!!

[cpmaple]

First is this a divided pan or open flat pan? Second does it have a draw off valve on the pan? If you answer yes to both of those questions then why not bring it to syrup in the pan I use to have a 2x3 divided pan myself when I first started made great syrup on it but have moved on to bigger rig. If you don't want to make syrup right now of the pan then chase it with water the water will put the more gradant (sp) product to the draw off port that way something is always in the pan. Either way you can chase with water to prevent burning of pans I do it on the last boil of the season. Hope this helps I'm sure someone with a little more knowledge than I will step in but that's what I did and do still.

[bigschuss]

Since you're doing a batch boil you're going to have to kill the fire and allow it to cool before you try to remove the sweet. On my Mason 2x4 I have a divided pan and just like on the bigger rigs, I simply introduce fresh sap on one end and draw off at the other. For a batch boil I think you just need to let it cool and then finish it elsewhere.

[brass maple]

tyler

If your setUp is like I think you are saying you have to let the fire go out before you get to the point of draining or have to take it off the arch And empty it. If the fire is still hot and you empty the pan with out any liquid comming into it, the pan will scorch. with experience you will learn when to stop feeding the fire so you can slide the pan off off yhe arch and drain it. Remember to put water or sap back in pan before sliding it back on arch to keep the heat from damaging your pan

[Tyler]

Thanks for the help guys! My pan is a 2X3 batch pan with no dividers and a valve and thermometer on the side. Looks like the best option is to let the fire go out or die down to a manageable point. If I pour water in the back will it mix with the concentrate or will it push that to the valve? I would love to finish on the pan but I certainly think I need more practice. I do however like to finish inside as it allows me to keep a close eye on it. This is my first year with an actual evaporator, last year was chaffing pans on a block arch, so Im sure there is a learning curve, just hope I don't ruin my pan in the process.......... Thanks again this is a great site with a lot of knowledgeable people like yourselves.

[eustis22]

on my 2X3 I found that holding out the last 5-6 gallons of sap to handle the cooldown boil off sufficed to prevent scorching. Then you just have to stop the fire on the last boil and finish that batch.

[steve J]

You can not let fire go to manageable point as it is still to hot. Your bricks will hold a lot of heat for some period of time after fire is out. If you empty the pan while that fire box is really hot you will damage the pan.

[MapleMounder]

Lots of great info so far. I have a divided Mason 2 x 4, I stop adding wood with about 10 gallons of sap left in the head tank. It still takes it about 90 minutes to use up the remaining sap and totally cool off. I usually finish on the evaporator but if we are in a dry spell or I need to finish the sweet for some reason, I then draw it off and finish in on my LP finisher I bought from Bill.

[donka]

Tyler,
I have a setup like yours and I find batch boils work best for me. When I get to the end of my sap I keep a 5 gallon bucket of water on hand just in case I need it (never have) and start using small softwood splits. When it gets as low as I dare I use a ash shovel and chuck all the coals into the snowbank next to the shed (you could also use a metal barrel with a cover). Once the arch cools down enough ( I put my arm right in and check the bricks) I draw off through a cone filter into a stock pot and use a wooden wedge to tilt the pan once it gets low. I then finish on a turkey fryer and filter again before canning. Good luck!!

[Big_Eddy]

Tyler
When I boiled outside on the block arch with mx 2x3 pan, I would run about 1 1/2" deep. When I hit the end of the sap I would stop firing and the depth would drop down as the last coals burnt up until it got as low as I dared (about 3/8") which also equated to syrup from about 80 gals sap. . If needed I would add twigs a few at a time to prolong the boil until the sap was fully syrup.
Then I would twist the pan 45 degrees and pour it all out quickly over 1 corner. Rotate back, drop it in place and flood with sap for the next batch.

By pouring it over the corner, I had the pan up high off the heat and the time empty was limited so no burning on took place.

BTW. A small scoop of snow blanketing the coals will kill the heat long enough to pour off the syrup without putting out the fire for the next batch.

[Tyler]

Thanks so much for all of the great info!