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Tweegs
03-11-2015, 11:40 AM
11008

Bought two hundred of these two years ago. I’ve replaced like 1 in 3 due to vacuum leaks. Some were fine the first year but leak this year.

Pretty sure it doesn’t have anything to do with how I seat the tubing as I’m not having any trouble with Tee’s, hook ends or saddles.

My M.O. is to cut the old one out, disconnect the hook end from the main line wire to leave some slack in the lateral, press the new fitting on, check for leaks, if none, reconnect the hook end, use the ring Tee to apply a little tension to the lateral, check for leaks again and move on.

Maybe I got a bad run of these but I’m hesitant to buy more. Not as much the money as it is the time spent hunting these leakers down and replacing them.

So, who’s happy with what?

Amber Gold
03-11-2015, 12:00 PM
I like hollow core rope. One less fitting to leak. Buy the black stuff from Bascom's. It's UV stable and last forever. I do use these end of line rings on two tappers.

1arch
03-11-2015, 01:16 PM
I use a piece of #10 THHN copper wire tied around the end tree and a hook end. (I'm an electrician so I have access to lots of short wire scraps) If the line ever is in the way, or in an area we don't want to leave the lines up all year this makes the process of unhooking and lowering lines to the ground or even rolling up a simple task.
If hooked the appropriate direction, tension on the lateral will have a tendency to allow a downward flow of sap with your drop line being on the higher side.
I never really liked the way the tree rings allow sap to pool around the trees circumference.

ennismaple
03-11-2015, 03:08 PM
We use the Lapierre end line hooks. The only drawback with them is the sap has to go around the tree but IMO that's not a big deal.

Sunday Rock Maple
03-11-2015, 09:30 PM
We use the Lapierre end line hooks. The only drawback with them is the sap has to go around the tree but IMO that's not a big deal.


what Ennis said.

MISugarDaddy
03-12-2015, 05:27 AM
A friend of mine showed me a way that really works well for tightening lines and eliminates the sap having to go around the tree. It requires two fittings, an end Y fitting and an end ring adjuster from Leader, but it works really great. To see the fittings, check out pg. 14, items 31-0035-Y and 31-0036, at sugarbushsupplies.com ... the one side of the Y is plugged and the opposite side is used to connect the end ring adjuster.
Gary

northwoods_forestry
03-12-2015, 06:07 AM
IPL endline hooks + endline plugged tees. Quick setup, no sap going around the tree and no dead zones. Tightening requires shortening the tubing between the endline tee and hook. Replaced the last of my Leader endline rings last year. Should never have used them to start with.

GeneralStark
03-12-2015, 07:08 AM
IPL endline hooks + endline plugged tees. Quick setup, no sap going around the tree and no dead zones. Tightening requires shortening the tubing between the endline tee and hook. Replaced the last of my Leader endline rings last year. Should never have used them to start with.

Ditto. We have lots of squirrels so they can chew the section of tubing around the tree all they want and it does not leak.

unc23win
03-12-2015, 07:24 AM
I agree with any of you who make a dead loop such as using plugged T and end line hook or ring. It is so easy to use that dead section in the loop to tighten the line. For years I have preferred making loops just started making them dead and it makes sense about less squirrel damage. I have noticed over the years I have 0 squirrel damage within 100 yards or so of my house which is in the middle of my woods I guess my 100lb Rottweiler keeps them away. Also think about this if you use a dead section 1' long and have 500 trees that 500' less your pump has to supply with vacuum.

WESTMAPLES
03-12-2015, 07:37 AM
haven`t had any leader end ring leakers, i personally like the design/idea of them put them on, pull the line tight, slide end ring into place and go and tightening the lines is just as easy walkover pull,slide walk away thats just my experience away

1arch
03-12-2015, 01:32 PM
Ditto. We have lots of squirrels so they can chew the section of tubing around the tree all they want and it does not leak.
I would estimate 95% of our squirrel damage was at that loop around the tree. I changed a few remaining out this week and they were the only areas in our tubing that held some sap from last year which was quite vinegar smelling. Not a pleasant thought to have that running down the lines.

BreezyHill
03-12-2015, 02:09 PM
CDL/IPL end line hook Hook on top of line and sloped to drain.

We only use Y connectors as they act like a venturi and send the sap toward the pump and not into the dead end; these are generally located after the hook when possible to further limit sap in the dead end.

Since 1971 never had squirrel chew a loop always on a tee or near a connector of a drop.

red maples
03-12-2015, 02:59 PM
I get frustrated with the hollow rope constantly slipping and the end line hooks are OK but the sap has to around the tree. next year I going to fix a few things in the woods including the adding in the end hooks and plugged tees. I did a few this year with reg T's and they are easy to tighten and no sap around the tree.

sugarwoodacres
03-12-2015, 03:15 PM
I get frustrated with the hollow rope constantly slipping and the end line hooks are OK but the sap has to around the tree. next year I going to fix a few things in the woods including the adding in the end hooks and plugged tees. I did a few this year with reg T's and they are easy to tighten and no sap around the tree.
I use 4-6 taps on 5/16 to 5 gal buckets. I use a tee at last tree and wire it for tension.

Sweet Maple Trees
03-12-2015, 03:40 PM
I get frustrated with the hollow rope constantly slipping and the end line hooks are OK but the sap has to around the tree. next year I going to fix a few things in the woods including the adding in the end hooks and plugged tees. I did a few this year with reg T's and they are easy to tighten and no sap around the tree.
FYI= 18" to 2' min. of hollow core rope on a 5/16" lateral and it will not slip.

maple flats
03-12-2015, 04:24 PM
Why are you replacing the drop each year, most studies show a 4 or 5 year exchange is most profitable. Next question, when you cut the old fitting off, how close to the old fitting are you cutting? The tubing will have a slight flare near the fitting, stay back about an inch, that may help.
If you choose to use hollow core braided rope, just get the right size spring clamp to slide over the rope and the tube (screw type band clamps are too costly), then you can safely use a far shorter length of rope over the tubing, 6" does fine then, however you need a pair of spring clamp pliers to adjust the tension easily. To adjust with any other type of pliers is an exercise in patience and determination.

Tweegs
03-13-2015, 08:29 AM
Thanks for the feedback folks.

As has been said, most of the critter damage I’m dealing with is also around the end tree, so having that area dead sounds like a bonus.
Plugged fittings, I’ll take a look at them.

wurmdert
03-13-2015, 10:25 AM
I make a dead loop with just a simple union then use D&G end line hook with dead loop. Seems to work really well