Evaporator is here....firebricking questions.

[Newbie_SyrupMaker]

Need some help again guys...the Leader 1/2 pint came today. I'll put it together in the am, but then I need to firebrick it...which I have never done before...is that a hard or time consuming task? Any suggestions on the do's and don'ts or useful tips?

Also, I assume, like most cement, is best to do in the warm weather...what about refactory cement? can I do it in the cold? Best I can hope for is about 30-35 in the day, and 15-20 at night for the next few days...and I'll probably need to boil by this weekend or shortly thereafter.

How warm does it need to be? how long will it take? how long until I can boil it?

Thanks for all the help. Glad I found this board...someday maybe I'll be on the answering side of these questions, but for know I appreciate all the newbie advice :D

-Newbie_Syrupmaker

[Al]

I just firebricked my new evaporator and yes it can take time. It was 25 during the day and below zero at night. I put a small heater in the evaporator to cure the motar. (24 hours)
I had to cut alot of brick also so I got a diamond tip blade for my circular saw.$35.00 and well worth every cent.
I would say 2 or 3 days before you boil and you may want to do a small test fire prior to really lighting her up. :D
One thing I did was to get a piece of plywood and attach 2 8 inch pieces of scrap wood in the shape of an L. Place the brick in the L and it held the brick in place. It also allowed me to operate the saw and keep my other hand out of the way. It was also big enough for me to kneel on and hold it in place. Of course I have a stone floor!!!!!!!
Enjoy your new 1/2 pint!!!!!!!!

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Newbie,

Al is right on the ball as I just firebricked my new evaporator a few months ago. One thing I would suggest is to use full size firebrick as much as possible. I got a 50 lb pail of refractory cement and it was very easy to use. Just apply a skim coat to the brick joints and to the back of the brick that goes against the arch wall.

If you have several hours, you could easily do it in 4 or 5 hours after you get the hang of it because the half pints are boxed shaped and there wouldn't be as much cutting as on an evaporator.

Call Randy Gaudette @ Leader (802) 524 3931 ext 20 or Brad Gillian @ extension 12. They are very helpful and will talk to you as much as you want to call!

[Small time]

I just firebricked my half pint this year actually a month ago. I only ended up cutting about 5 or 6 bricks and the rest were using whole bricks. It was actually really easy as it is square and small. Like everyone else said take your time 'butter' the bricks and if it is cold you should put a heater in the inside to keep it warm until it cures. I waited 2 days then fired the unit up with small fires a couple times to make sure I had no leaks in the firebox, cure the mortar and 'season' the grate. After that I test boiled and really fired the unit up. It does well for the size. One thing to watch for is when you put the wall up between the sides make sure that you can put the grate on the supports easily. I had my wall a little to close to where the grates need to go and it was a very tight fit. If my grates warp I might need to sawzall it out.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Small time,

Definitely leave some room for the grates to move and expand. If you don't the will warp and likely crack the front of your arch! Better to make changes now as have to pay later! :?

[Newbie_syrupmaker]

OK guys, got the leader 1/2 pint all put together, and read and re-read the firebricking instructions, but I have one last question before I jump in (probably tommorrow).

With the 1/2 pint all put together, all the screws ends are facing in and sticking into the burn chamber about 1/4 or more inches from the sides...should I assume that the layer of cemet that I put up against the sheet metal (and screws) will be thick enough to cover the screws? If not some of the bricks will stick into the chamber more than others? Is that OK?

In other words, when I put the "base" coat of cement on the bottom for example, should its thickness match the length of the screws that stick into the chamber?

Thanks guys..really appreciate all the help. Setup was easy, but I am guessing I only get one chance at getting the firebricking right....

[Newbie_syrupmaker]

Minor point, but I measured and most of the screws extend into the box by 3/8 of an inch. So then it would, if I understand correctly, required a 3/8 layer of cement allong the bottom and all sides....correct? Or do I use a smaller thickness in most places and then just let the bricks that backup to a bolt extend further into the chamber?

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

My 2x8 Leader also had screws that stuck out and I took a masonary bit and drilled a hole about 1/2" or larger in diameter and about a 1/2" deep to cover the screw up like it wasn't even there. The hole fit over top of the bolt head and worked great. Took a little extra time, but made a really pretty job.

I had some leftover refractory cement, so I skim coated the inside of the firebrick after I was finished.

There are a couple of pictures on my website listed below if you would like to see them!

[WF MASON]

Sounds like some very good advise , heres my 2 cents , I tell people the top rail width judges the size of the brick you use , if the top rail is 1'' wide (as it is on most hobby evaporators ) you would use a half size fire brick , which is 1 1/4'' thick , protecting the top rail and covering the bottom of the pan by only 1/4''-3/8'' all the way around the pan, so if you use a full size (2 1/2''thick) brick with a 1'' rail , your covering 1 1/2''- 1 5/8'' of the bottom of your pan , all the way around , you'd be losing 3'' in width of boiling surface and 3'' in length of boiling surface , on a small pan, this is a big loss. For arches already bricked , this can be over come by removing the top row of brick under the top rail and replacing them with the half brick.
Of course if the top rail a 2'' angle , then full brick is used.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Or, you can cut the top full brick at an angle up to the top rail which is what I did on mine and they came out really nice. I would suggest using full brick as much as possible because they will lengthen the life of your arch and make it a touch more efficient because, for both reasons, they are twice as thick!