How to run stacks through ribbed steel roof

[Mad Tapper]

We have a nice 2X6 evaporator and have been cooking outside. We are exploring the possibility of placing it inside a nice heated shop. The ceiling is 18' from the floor and we'd run the steam and smoke stacks so they are perpendicular to the ridge. The roof is rib formed steel. A local fireplace/woodstove dealer wants an obscene amount of $ to run the stacks through the ceiling and roof. What's the best way to run the stacks through that type of ceiling/roof? Where's the best place to get the proper materials (chimney jacks, supports for the pipe inside, etc)? Anyone else do what we're trying to do? Thanks in advance for any guidance you guys can give.

Mad Tapper

[CampHamp]

Mad Tapper, if you want to go through the ridge, then you'll need a center mount roof jack and will need to get one with that matches your roof's pitch (mine is 6/12, for example) and your stack diameter.

Here is a picture of mine from inside:

10757

I got mine from Sunrise Metal Shop (maple equipment manufacturer where I bought my evaporator from).

I cannot see where you are located, but the largest retail supplier around me in NH is Bascom's and their selection with pricing is here (https://www.bascommaple.com/category/jacks/smoke_stacks/).

The one at Bascom's is different than the one I have. Mine has a "box" welded above the base flanges (you can sort of make that out in the photo) and I assume this is to help diffuse the heat from the contact point with the stack.

People often get them made from their local metal shop to have some control over the design or to save money.

The center mounted roof jacks are installed above the metal roof to keep water run-off outside. If you had to go through the side of your roof, then you'd make a seam in the roof so that the top is under the roof and the lower half is above.

Regarding stablizers, I do not use any because the jack prevents sway at the top and the stack's weight onto the ceramic tape at the evaporator keeps it tight at the base.

Last thing is fire prevention. I've read stories posted here of rafters and ceilings catching on fire or smoldering. There are just as many posts helping people achieve safe clearances and how these can be reduced with insulation and buffering. I ended up hanging a second, larger galvanized stack around my upper stack just below the roof to make mine safer than the picture shows. Even outside, I attached a metal barrier between the stack and my cupola due to a tight proximity.

Good luck getting your boiling indoors this season!

[wnybassman]

And if it goes on the side of the ridge, try to get it close enough so the jack tucks up under the ridge trim. That makes things a lot easier. My jack base was just the right size where I could put a little bend down to wrap over a roof rib. I put butyl tape on top of those ribs to help keep water from coming in from the sides.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s163/wnybassman/2014Shack/stackoutroof_zps1a6ef5d7.jpg

[ennismaple]

Nice sugar shack wnybassman!

[Ghs57]

I'm setting my chimney up now, and also have a metal roof. I went with insulated pipe, which allows for 2" clearance. Got the roof jack, hanging bracket and stove pipe adapter from ventingpipe.com. Insulated pipe from lowes. Tried to fine some
used pipe, but everything I looked at was garbage, or seller wanted as much as new pipe.

I have the hanging bracket mounted. I should say that I have a wooden planking under the metal roofing, so I was able to screw the bracket to some 2x4 framing on the wood planking. The bracket is adjustable to any roof pitch. My pipe is 8 inch
inside diameter on a 2x6 homemade evap.

My chimney guy would have charged over 2k for this setup, but I'm only in about 500 right now, not counting my labor. Don't have any pictures at the moment, but should have some on the weekend. Setup will be similar to wnybassman's, which is off the ridge, roof jack under ridge cap.

[Zucker Lager]

I boil outside but I do have a wood burning stove in my pole barn here is a picture of how my chimney looked after last years snow came off. You can see that the original "snow protector" didn't do a thing and was crushed by the snow sliding off. So I just wanted to put my two cents in about securing your stack and using a quality stack protector if you are in a heavy snow area like ours. Jay
first time trying to include a picture hope it works?????10791

[CampHamp]

Wow Zucker. Snow tends to slide when you warm the place up, so I guess there's the added danger of it sliding while the stove is running. I wonder if it's better to hold the snow on the roof with a couple rows of rails above the stack?

[Zucker Lager]

First of all does Wnybassman have a sweet looking shack or what! Would like to see more of that operation. Yea Jamie that is what happened we had a ton of snow then no melt for the entire season until spring and the whole shebang came off all at once, we did have a total of over ten feet for the year so I guess I can't really complain that the super duper snow protector didn't work he he. The wood stove is in a sectioned off area that is insulated by itself so it doesn't heat the outer area of the barn. I spent about a K fixing it all but now have a better chimney protector on it and three rows of those snow "stoppers" above it to trap the snow there and now I run the roof rake up both sides of the chimney every once and a while so that when it does avalanche off it doesn't bulldoze the chimney too. I went with the "Vent Saver HD" with the diverters on it so we will see how that works out. Jay

[Mad Tapper]

Thanks for the ideas guys. We're in central Wisconsin. We're restricted to a corner of the shop so the ridge cap can't be utilized to shed water over the "boot" or flashing. Gsh57 some pics of the parts you used would be great if you can post them. I've been all over the web looking at parts and pieces. Now that I understand things a little better, its apparent to me that this will be a project best tackled after the season. Looks like the evaporator will be set up on our trailer again this year.

BTW, nice looking set-ups guys.

MT

[Ghs57]

http://s1.img-b.com/ventingpipe.com/imagebase/resized/x800/superproimages/SP_RoofSupport.jpg

http://s1.img-b.com/ventingpipe.com/imagebase/resized/330x320/superproimages/SP_AdjFlashing.jpg

These were the two most important pieces in my set up. If I were not going out near the peak of the roof, I would have cut the roofing panel to fit around the rook jack, slid the jack under the panel on the uphill side, cut another section of roofing to side under the jack and the upper panel. Due to the ribs, there will be gaps between the panels and the roof jack. Some roofing manufactures sell gaskets to seal these gaps, but in a sap house we are not usually making things air tight. You may also be able to cut a hole in the roof and seal a jack over the hole with some type of sealer, be it RTV silicone or similar material. Personally, I don't like to rely on sealers, as they will fail at some time in the future. A mechanical solution relies on gravity and the competence of the installer.

10865

The picture shows the roof support bracket holding 8" Selkirk SuperPro insulated chimney pipe. The 2x4s are installed on the flat over 1" sub-roof. There is a 2" clear space between the pipe and the framing. I will install the jack and the top of chimney this weekend. With any luck we will be out of the deep freeze and actually in production within a few days.