tapping hammer

[tbear]

Hi Everyone,
I've been using just a plain old framing hammer to set my stainless steel spiles with. Over the years I've had problems with splitting holes from time to time. I understand there's a sound and bounce back when the tap is seated correctly. Is there a better tapping hammer I could use until I get the feel of the bounce back and the sound of a seated tap down? I've been reading about plastic hammers. Any praticular brand or type? Any place in praticlar I should shop for one? I run 70 - 75 taps on aluminum buckets. Thanks! Ted

[kiteflyingeek]

I just "steal" my wife's hammer from her tool set for the 2 weeks of tapping. It is a "picture hanging" hammer -- I'd guess a 6oz head? And I swing it all with fingers, no wrist or forearm. I'm no expert but I haven't split a tree (yet :) ).

When I started, I read everyone's statements about ping-ping-thud as the tap/spile seats. As I put my first one in the tree, I heard exactly that. And the hammer seems to bounce off the head of the spile but I'm using 5/16" spiles with tubing barbs on them.

--andrew

[MISugarDaddy]

Bruce from Leader suggested using a "stubby" handled hammer to avoid over driving spiles. We picked up a couple of them from Harbor Freight. They are 8 oz. and I think they will work great for the job.
Gary

[northwoods_forestry]

I've always been contrary when it comes to setting spiles in the tree. My experience is that driving them in using the "bounce back" method results in too many split holes, especially when tapping frozen trees with metal spiles. My firm opinion is that is far better to go light, tapping the spiles in just enough to seal the hole but not so far in that they can be easily removed by hand. I never need to use a tool to pull taps at the end of the season. Spiles may need to be re-seated during the course of the season as freeze/thaw cycles can push them out. My experience is only with buckets and gravity tubing systems to date (that will change this year) and I have less than 1000 taps and can spend the time checking that spiles remain sealed during the season.

[BreezyHill]

Hi Everyone,
I've been using just a plain old framing hammer to set my stainless steel spiles with. Over the years I've had problems with splitting holes from time to time. I understand there's a sound and bounce back when the tap is seated correctly. Is there a better tapping hammer I could use until I get the feel of the bounce back and the sound of a seated tap down? I've been reading about plastic hammers. Any praticular brand or type? Any place in praticlar I should shop for one? I run 70 - 75 taps on aluminum buckets. Thanks! Ted


There is a sound that is made when a spout/spile is seated at the correct tightness in the hole. It is a slight increase in pitch..from a low thud to a higher crack like sound.

Bounce back will depend on the hammer and the material the hammer is made of, and how hard you are driving the hammer.

Short handles are for control. I have a 15# sledge on a 12" handle...this is for driving apart rust metal parts. I also have a15# 36" sledge for driving posts or splitting wood.

Framming hammer is usually around 15 ounces, a nail hammer is usually around 8-10 oz, and a spout hammer is around 3 ounces.

Hammer head material is usually metal unless brass or lead for driving metal that can be damaged; and wood or plastic is best for plastic taps and spiles.

The force behind the swing is where you will get the most bounce back affect...swing it like you are p!ssed off and you will split the hole every time...drive it in like you are making a gourmet product and you will have the sound and bounce back.

Watch the bark around the hole and listen to every spout you set. In a few installations you will hear the difference and be contious of a consistant swing force of the hammer.

Can you put spiles in correctly with a 15# sledge...Yes but it will take practice and realize that it is a sensitive material that will tare so don't drive it like you rented it drive it like you love it and it will love you back.

Brand...they are all good but I prefer the CDL one. My son set it down and it was lost til spring last season and he ran o the shop and made a wooden one. It was awesome! Then I broke it :( The next one he made was a little heavier and I got used to it we finished the season. I have often used a nail hammer and just don't swing as hard and listen close. Much easier to split a hole and at 28"+ of vac that is a huge problem that can cost1/2 gallon of syrup.

Good Luck the fun is about start!

Ben

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I like the little stubby hammers Harbor freight sells. The short handle helps you not get much force behind and it is nice and compact and you can stick it in your pocket.

[brookledge]

try something like this
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-lb-neon-orange-dead-blow-hammer-41796.html
Keith

[bowtie]

I use a mallet, one side is soft rubber the other is a harder plastic. I have had leaks around the taps but not because of seating the tap to deep.

[WI Sugarpop]

I made 2 of these in January and then I decided to make 2 more. We replaced are taps with new stainless taps and I decided I didn't want to wreck them with a metal hammer. Heads are African mahogany and handles are ash.




10704

[Ausable]

Howdy - on this very cold morning. On reading this thread - You have received a lot of good advice - so far. LOL My turn-- I used the Grimm style steel spiles for many years and I found using the spile set - made for them - gave me better results. That and a lighter hammer. Now - I use the plastic tube spiles and I use a small rubber mallet from a Dollar Store and that works great for them. The first plastic spile I set I smashed with my trusty steel hammer and realized this will never work. Setting Spiles is a trial and error thing - You will get a feel for it - after You set a few. Good Luck and have fun. ----Mike---

[WESTMAPLES]

sounds silly but i use a estwing 22 oz framing hammer with smooth face, i don`t think its the size of the hammer that matters, its the control the person running it has. i use leader CV2 spouts with no breakage due to setting the spout

[Amber Gold]

I was going to recommend the 1lb neon hammer from Harbor freight, but Keith beat me to it. I bought it last year and used it. Great hammer. Just the right size and it kinda stands out in the snow.


try something like this
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-lb-neon-orange-dead-blow-hammer-41796.html
Keith

[tbear]

Thanks for all the suggestions! I just ordered one of the 8oz. stubbies and the 1# neon orange dead blow hammers from Harbor Freight. I'll see which one I like best. Again, thanks for the help. While I'm on, CAN ANYONE DO ANYTHING ABOUT THIS WEATHER?!! Ted

[whitetail farms]

I tried the harbor freight dead blow hammer for the first time today and loved it!! almost three hits every time till you hear the thud

[markct]

I use the side of a pair of linemans pliers for the simple fact they fit in my pocket easy and are plenty heavy

[Jonnyp390]

I was bored waiting for the weather to warm up, so I decided to make a new tapping hammer. The head is made out of a maple burl that came from a GIANT farm maple that my brothers and I milled on our sawmill. The handle is an Ash tree from my parents backyard that succumbed to the Emerald Ash Borer beetles. The ash tree is special to me because it is the tree that any of the male family members "watered" everyday after school. I left some of the ash borer tracks on the handle for a little extra gription.

[Geroldn]

Beautiful wood, especially with the family memories included. I use a plastic tent peg hammer from the Walmart camping department. About $3.

[adk1]

I use a rubber mallet