pan gasket

[11-Nick]

Getting my first evaporator into service.
I need to get gasket between pan and arch. will this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fiberglass-Rope-Gasket-Braided-White-Wood-Stove-Replacement-Cut-to-Length-/251732962194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3a9c742b92
It has a rating of up to 1000 degrees. I don't want something that's going to burn/melt.
Thanks!

[bowtie]

I have found the pan gasket insulation in 25 ft rolls works much better, tighter seal. you have to replace more often but if you use a blower you want a complete seal or ashes will blow around and settle in the pan. any maple supply store will have it in stock or you can get it at bascoms.

[Schiefe4]

Nick,

http://www.sugarbushsupplies.com/2014_Catalog/archesforceddraftinsulation.pdf

Second page shows two different types of rail gasket. Hope this helps.

[maplestudent]

Nick,

http://www.sugarbushsupplies.com/2014_Catalog/archesforceddraftinsulation.pdf

Second page shows two different types of rail gasket. Hope this helps.

wish I could get some fire brick around here for the prices they list.

[psparr]

You can use the blanket. It makes a great seal. Just cut narrow strips about 1 to 1-1/2" wide.

[Maplesapper]

We use the rope gasket for wood burning stoves.
3/8" thick and it compresses quite well under the weight of a full pan

[WI Sugarpop]

Getting my first evaporator into service.
I need to get gasket between pan and arch. will this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fiberglass-Rope-Gasket-Braided-White-Wood-Stove-Replacement-Cut-to-Length-/251732962194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3a9c742b92
It has a rating of up to 1000 degrees. I don't want something that's going to burn/melt.
Thanks!


Try this. http://www.equalseal.com/product-p/pfgt-251.5-50.htm

[asknupp]

Is it going on traditional arch or cement block arch?

[maple flats]

For firebricks, look at a masonry supply, not a maple dealer. I bought mine at less than half of what maple dealers charge, and mine have held up very well. Been in since 2007.

[eustis22]

did you use full or splits? I have been having trouble with the splits that line the walls of my stove. I'm wondering if they are too thin for the mortar to hold during heating.

[maple flats]

I used full bricks on the lower part in the firebox and half bricks (splits?) up by the AOF. Then I used plenty of refractory cement, a little behind, a little between bricks and a healthy layer over them. Then I heated the rig slowly. The first night or 2 I used a light for heat just to keep it from freezing, then I started a small fire after that. I burned the small fire (water in the pans) for 2-3 hrs. After it burned out, I drained the pans and again put the light back in. The next day I fired a medium fire for 3-4 hrs, followed by cleaning ash out, draining pan and the light again. The next day I made a hot fire for a few hours. Drained the water and let it set until I had sap. My bricks have held tight. The secret is to warm it to get a cure slowly at first and gradually heat it more. Do not go too fast or it will usually not cure properly and don't let it freeze until the moisture is driven out by the heat. Freezing while moisture is in it will break the bond.
If the half bricks are coming loose it is not the brick size but rather your technique.

[WI Sugarpop]

Great advice Dave, that's what I was going to say, although I just stack them dry using all splits.