Home Built Auto Draw Off

[Urban Sugarmaker]

So I built myself an auto draw-off and while I was looking at my plumbing I wondered about priming it. The auto valve and manual valve are at the lowest points in the system. Therefore, if my throttle valve is open at all before the first draw, it is initially full of fresh sap at the start of the season. So my question is, should I keep the throttle valve closed until it's nearly ready for the first draw, or just let a few ounces of sap mix with finished syrup on the first draw? What do you auto-draw folks do for the first boil?
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[Dennis H.]

Very nice looking build.

[Urban Sugarmaker]

Very nice looking build.

Thanks Dennis. Also want to thank you for answering some of my questions when I was building it.

[Sugarmaker]

Your thinking too much:)
I agree nice build, hope it works well for you.
Keep your throttle valve open. Draw off a hydrometer cup of syrup about 2 degrees early, check with hydrometer and dump it back in near the draw off port. Now you have syrup at the valve.
Let the temp probe and controller do there job. Just check the density during the first 3 or 4 draws to make sure you are getting correct density. Set the controller accordingly. re check and get to making syrup.
What are the two controller for? I see one at 800 degrees?
Regards,
Chris

[wiam]

Stack temp?

[Urban Sugarmaker]

Your thinking too much:)
I agree nice build, hope it works well for you.
Keep your throttle valve open. Draw off a hydrometer cup of syrup about 2 degrees early, check with hydrometer and dump it back in near the draw off port. Now you have syrup at the valve.
Let the temp probe and controller do there job. Just check the density during the first 3 or 4 draws to make sure you are getting correct density. Set the controller accordingly. re check and get to making syrup.
What are the two controller for? I see one at 800 degrees?
Regards,
Chris

Somehow I knew someone would say I was thinking too much (not at all bad that you pointed that out btw). I will try your method.

Yes, the second controller is for stack temp. I figured I would tweak the setting on that for whatever temperature consistently gives a good boil without being dangerously hot. The alarm is for high temp, and the yellow LED will be the indicator to add fuel. The green LED indicates when the valve is open. So far all my testing has been successful with just water. If anyone was wondering about the temp difference shown, the values get much closer at higher temps. The stack temp is a type K thermocouple and the syrup probe is a PT 100 RTD.

[killingworthmaple]

If anyone needs the auto valve I have 2 I would like to sell they are marcland I think. Just give me a call

Nathan
860-604-8115

[robinson lane]

Where did you get your valve from and what make is it?

[Urban Sugarmaker]

Where did you get your valve from and what make is it?

I got the valve from Smoky Lake. It's the same one they use on their systems and it has the same cord, jack, and panel-mount receptacle. If you do some digging you can probably find the valve online direct from a manufacturer, but I went with this because it was ready out of the box. It is a powered open/powered closed valve. Others I have seen that are almost identical use a capacitor to store energy to close the valve. I think Smoky Lake went with this valve for reliability.

[TheMapleMoose]

Ive been on the look out for a new valve. I used the plunger style solenoid valve last year. It worked ok, but i was costantly tearing it apart to clean the niter out. The only ball valve I seem to be able to come across is a MISOL and its only rated for 212F. Maybe it would be ok. I need a 12v valve, my drawoff is all 12v.

[Urban Sugarmaker]

Ive been on the look out for a new valve. I used the plunger style solenoid valve last year. It worked ok, but i was costantly tearing it apart to clean the niter out. The only ball valve I seem to be able to come across is a MISOL and its only rated for 212F. Maybe it would be ok. I need a 12v valve, my drawoff is all 12v.

I was finding the Misol valves as well. I did make email contact with a Chinese manufacturer at one point. My contact there said they could make whatever I needed. If you want that contact let me know.

[Machinist67]

This is the SS valve with Viton seals I use which is good to 266F
http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=2WJ20020N

[TheMapleMoose]

This is the SS valve with Viton seals I use which is good to 266F
http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=2WJ20020N

I'm using that one now, but we have to tear it apart and clean it a lot to keep from sticking open. Going to try the ball valve in hopes of having less issues

[S Wright]

If you don't mind me asking, roughly how much did it cost you to build this? I've been thinking about trying to build one in the next year or two (once the sugarhouse is finished and we upgrade our evaporator). I'm sure I can do it from a technical aspect since I design industrial lift equipment for a living, but I just have wondered if the cost savings would be worth the time for me to sort it all out.

[TheMapleMoose]

I've got ~ $250-300 in mine. 10466
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[Urban Sugarmaker]

If you don't mind me asking, roughly how much did it cost you to build this? I've been thinking about trying to build one in the next year or two (once the sugarhouse is finished and we upgrade our evaporator). I'm sure I can do it from a technical aspect since I design industrial lift equipment for a living, but I just have wondered if the cost savings would be worth the time for me to sort it all out.

I've got a little more than $400 invested. Could definitely have saved some money on the valve but I wanted the setup direct from Smokey Lake. It was $138 and came complete with a long cord, jack, and receptacle. Also, the PID controllers from Auber Instruments are on the more expensive side at $43.55 each. I've seen them on Amazon from other manufacturers for around $30. I did have to order parts from several different vendors so shipping costs were definitely a factor. Another way you could save a few dollars would be to make your own enclosure. I used a plastic junction box that was $22 from Home Depot. I'm happy with all the parts I used so far.

[TheMapleMoose]

Auber was helpful, and even designed a 12" probe with a food grade wire coating for me - which I see they are now selling on their website. I felt their shipping costs were a little high, Especially in the day of amazon prime, so I don't buy there unless I have to