View Full Version : snapping high tensile wire
calvertbrothers
01-08-2015, 05:11 PM
Well still having issues snapping mainlines this is getting real old. I bought 12g high tensile wire snapped it off at the ratchet tightener. I thought my tie backs would give away before my mainline. Anyone know someone that puts up line and how much in western NY?
unc23win
01-08-2015, 05:16 PM
Are you putting it in the hole and bending it around by hand? It works best if you put the wire in the hole and use your hands to get one wrap or so started then start ratchet it it. I pull mine sideways a little to handle the slack when I first ratchet it. It breaks pretty easy when you bend it rather than roll it before you ratchet it.
calvertbrothers
01-08-2015, 05:45 PM
it had multiple wraps around it.
mountain man maple
01-08-2015, 06:12 PM
How are you fastening the other end of wire? Did you ever think of eliminating ratchets and using gripples on both ends? I have tried to eliminate all my ratchets because that's where failures always were happening. If your going to side tie the wire the ratchets are not necessary.
Walling's Maple Syrup
01-08-2015, 06:29 PM
Where did you buy your hi-tensile wire and how many feet are in the rolls?
unc23win
01-08-2015, 06:47 PM
HHMM Something isn't right. I noticed you said 12g did you mean 12.5? Maybe post a picture? I have never broke the wire unless it was kinked or bent over and I have miles and miles of it.
calvertbrothers
01-08-2015, 07:17 PM
I use fencing crimps at the other end. I rap the wire around the tree and crimp the wire. I tighten the wire semi tight, then I put the first tie backs on the bends, then I go from there. I buy my wire from Doug Wolcott everyone around buys from him and never have issues. I use a come along to tighten the line. I ask doug how he does it and he doesn't use a come along to tighten it. The size of the wire was the 12.5.
Walling's Maple Syrup
01-08-2015, 07:26 PM
Does the wire come in 4000' rolls? I buy mine at TSC and have never had one snap while tightening it. Have had 2 break, but both times were when a good sized tree fell on the wire right near the end of the mainline. Like UNC, I also have miles of it in the woods and breaking has never been an issue. It does not sound like it has anything to do with the way you are installing it. If you have a TSC near you, i would but a roll of that and try it.
Neil
calvertbrothers
01-08-2015, 07:31 PM
yes I have a TCS in warsaw I will have to try it.
calvertbrothers
01-08-2015, 07:53 PM
sorry TSC...
mellondome
01-08-2015, 10:01 PM
Don't use a come along. Just the ratchets.. have miles and miles of the wire up and have never broken the wire.. even with equipment hitting it... splices and ratchets will fail first.
UNLESS you kink the wire!
Last year I even broke a gripple. I had the wire tight , side tied, and 1000th of 3/4 pipe all tied up ready to roll. Temp dropped to -20. Wire contracted too much and broke the gripple.
Your doing something wrong to break the wire.
BreezyHill
01-08-2015, 11:07 PM
I use fencing crimps at the other end. I rap the wire around the tree and crimp the wire. I tighten the wire semi tight, then I put the first tie backs on the bends, then I go from there. I buy my wire from Doug Wolcott everyone around buys from him and never have issues. I use a come along to tighten the line. I ask doug how he does it and he doesn't use a come along to tighten it. The size of the wire was the 12.5.
If you are raping around a tree the tree will die from gurdling...use a J hook or a screw hook of 3/8" or larger.
If you are using the good high tensile ratchets or a Gallagher rapid tie tightener you can break any wire (14 or 12.5 ga class II or IV) with ease with a long enough handle or a Gallagher rapid tightener tool.
Be sure you don't have a kink and reduce your tension. Visit your local Gallagher Fence Dealer and get a High Tensile Fence Tension Spring. I think it is part #290. On the bail hook there are marks that show 100# tension increments. For fences you usually go to 250# and not over 300#. For support I go to about 500#. I like a nice tight line to keep slope of 100% without dropping.
maple flats
01-09-2015, 06:00 AM
After breaking several times, always at the tensioner, I quit using them. I now anchor to the end trees, using a fence puller and crimp swages to hold them, then I side tie enough to make it sing. That being said, I only use wire support for my wet/dry conductors, the rest I ues the Rapitube method, but with Leader 30P.
BreezyHill
01-09-2015, 12:10 PM
10254Here are a couple of links for you.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271283212123?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
These are the drive rings/J hooks for the end point.
One can make the handle to go onto the Gallagher Rapid tightener with a piece of 1/2' square stock and 1/2" round for the lever part and the tee handle. Do not make the handle longer than 10" as you will have to much mechanical advantage in the lever and you will break the wire easily.
The site is not link pics right now so I will try again later to link a pic of the two Gallagher handles later with an edit.
Ben
calvertbrothers
01-09-2015, 12:28 PM
I rap the wire around the tree with 3/4 line and use the cable crimps to make loop.I was told it would harm the tree.
BreezyHill
01-09-2015, 12:39 PM
We lost five trees that way over the years. Now all ends are secured with the J hooks.
I will get you a pick of what baler twine tied around a tree did...dad used it to mark maples one year...lost three trees and have several with the deformity.
Count the J hook as a tap the first year if it is a maple.
Good Luck!
calvertbrothers
01-09-2015, 02:08 PM
I'll go to TSC and buy a few. And I have the line so pretty much its on every kind of tree besides maple. Do you use the j-hooks for tie backs as well?
Installed right and checked once a year, wraps around trees with the wire inside a piece of old mainline should not hurt the tree. If it looks like it is, move it up or down a little bit. However, if you a lazy and don't check it for 10 years, then yes it could damage the trees, but then again, a lag bolt in the tree could damage it too. So pick your poison and your preference for what fits your needs.
BreezyHill
01-09-2015, 11:22 PM
I'll go to TSC and buy a few. And I have the line so pretty much its on every kind of tree besides maple. Do you use the j-hooks for tie backs as well?
I do use a j at direction changes...it is just so simple and relatively inexpensive and takes all of about 60 seconds to put in a J hook. Use a sledge with a short handle and drive the shaft straight for a straight hook. Bent hooks hold just fine but look a little ugly; but the deer don't mind. LOL
I have had one small tree of about 6" diameter die with a j hook in it. The trees that died with the twine died in five years or possible 4. On the farm we have over 200 hooks in trees for fence. If you are looking at using a small tree like under 6" for and end then use a pilot hole to stop the risk of damaging the tree.
If you remember every 5-7 years turn the hook out a few turns and the hooks will last along long time. I have several that the trees have grown to far and are unturnable. On one all you see is a wire out of a tree to the fence insulator.
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