Home built float valve build

[fisheatingbagel]

Here are a couple of pictures of my float valve build for my Smoky Lake 2x5. The box is a half size steam table pan. I bought the brass valve off ebay. The mounting bracket is constructed from some scrap aluminum pieces I had. I riveted the bracket to the pan with pop rivets.

Jim provides a 3/4" NPT fitting for connecting a float valve. I used a short brass nipple and a couple of of locknuts and washers to connect the box. A rubber washer on the inside of the floatbox seals the connection.

I was planning to use a flask for the float, but I think a copper float ball will work better. The box sits low enough so there will several inches of sap in the box before it's up to the intake on the pan.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/23/94c9e805c7e465b1948533d67065985e.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/23/7e450f9442377771fc55b279f16f79b4.jpg

[psparr]

Makes me proud. The only thing I see is your inlet looks in the picture to be at the same level as the outlet?Your valve will be submerged in sap.

[unc23win]

At a glance the first picture I thought you made 2 because of the reflection you got from that nice shine on your pan. Looks great hope it works well for you.

[Foremaple]

Nice work. It reminds me , though of when we took a leaky float to have fixed and the guy soldered the vent shut . Who knew the thing would pop a seam when the sap got hot!!!

[Super Sapper]

Looks really nice but I would agree that the inlet should go higher up o the pan. It looks like a good spot for an air lock that could mean a burnt pan. I use a SS round float on the one I made and it does not take very much depth to work properly.

[wiam]

Makes me proud. The only thing I see is your inlet looks in the picture to be at the same level as the outlet?Your valve will be submerged in sap.

Most of the older Small Brothers fed from the bottom. Never heard of a problem wih them.

[Super Sapper]

Feeding from the bottom would allow any air to come out, this type of valve comes out the bottom and would not let any air out of the line if it is submerged. He may not have any issues but I would play it safe and move it above your intended pan level.

[fisheatingbagel]

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't think about the valve being in the sap. I think I'll move it up some. Have to plug the existing hole somehow...

[n8hutch]

You could put an expandable rubber plug in the hole, or you could put a bulkhead fitting in the hole and plug it with a threaded plug, any good hardware store should have both of these.

[Urban Sugarmaker]

How hard is it to drill/cut holes in these steam pans? Can a regular drill get through it?

[psparr]

How hard is it to drill/cut holes in these steam pans? Can a regular drill get through it?

Sure can. Start out with a small bit then finish with a step bit.

[Urban Sugarmaker]

Sure can. Start out with a small bit then finish with a step bit.

Thanks! So many great ideas on this forum. If I can build this, I think it will be easier to maintain a gradient. Safer too.

[fisheatingbagel]

The trickiest part was getting a water tight connection between the float box and the nipple that screws into the evaporator. I ended up using a couple of 3/4" locknuts made for electrical conduit, a metal washer on both sides and a rubber gasket under the "inside" locknut. I'm sure there's a better way...

[craig1bc]

I am building one of these now. With a typical float box should the amount of prewarmed sap be pretty low? Seems like if the sap sits there for too long it is going to drop temperature quickly.

How high should inlet be as opposed to the outlet? How much sap should sit in the floatbox? Should I get a cover to the float box to keep it warm?

Craig

[fisheatingbagel]

Hi Craig,
You adjust the float box to the level of sap you want in the sap pan. The float box won't act as a pre-heater. You shouldn't have any sap "sitting" in the float box - it has a valve to feed more sap as the level goes down.

As far as the level of sap goes, you want to keep the sap level as low as your comfortable with. Essentially, this allows the sap to come up to temp quickly as it comes into the pan - helpful if you don't have a pre-heater, and also allows a more vigorous boil.

[Greg MacWilliam]

when drilling ss use low rpm and lots of coolent or it will work harden.

[RileySugarbush]

when drilling ss use low rpm and lots of coolent or it will work harden.

and lot's of feed pressure. If you stop cutting chips even for an instant it work hardens and you just made your day a lot worse.

[johnallin]

John is absolutely correct...the minute you stop cutting it's "lights out" for your bit. Start with a small 1/8-3-16" bit and finish with a step bit.

[maple flats]

I use cobalt drill bits, and work up, but I only drill that way until I get a hole large enough to use a Greenlee punch like these https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=greenlee+punch&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=241939252741&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15777104259032188712&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005246&hvtargid=aud-394184471667:kwd-341976212&ref=pd_sl_1y7hvnohu_e
Using a greenlee will make a perfect undistorted hole. Maybe you could borrow or rent one from a rental store or a tin shop or even hire them to punch the hole.I have 3 sizes, one for a 7/8" hole, one at 1 3/8" and one at 1 7/8" and have used all of them several times in SS. Before I had them I borrowed ones I needed from my local tin shop. A perfect hole will be easier to get a good seal.

[RileySugarbush]

I agree with Dave.

First choice: greenlee punch though you still need to drill a bolt hole to use them.
Second choice: Drill through and follow with a step drill