My first real evaporator... and lots of questions!

[maple6275]

Hi guys,

So I've finally graduated from homemade arches to an official "off the shelf" setup. Yesterday I took delivery of a new CDL 18x60 hobby unit with a 42" flue pan and a 18" syrup pan. It looks great! But now I'm racking up the questions. Maybe some of you can help me!

1) The bottom of the firebox (under the grates) is open to the ground. I was just assuming it'd be solid, like a wood stove. What should I put under there to serve as the "floor" of the firebox?

2) The syrup pan is divided into two sections. Each section has a threaded thermometer port. Why would I use two thermometers and not just one on the draw-off side?

3) The metal steel framework and front appears to be painted with some heavy grade black paint. Is there anything additional I should paint the frame with to avoid corrosion / rust spots from accidental water contact? Until I get a shed built this unit will be operated outside on sugaring days (but not stored outside,) so I'm nervous about a random rain shower coming my way and rusting things up.

4) What kind of insulation board should I use under the bricks? Is there a specific type/brand I should ask for at the local stove shop?


Thanks!
Ryan

[psparr]

I can answer one of the questions. Im still homemade though.

The two thermo ports are so you can rotate the pan to help avoid niter buildup. Should be two inlets also on either side of the pan.

[jrmaple]

1) The bottom of the firebox (under the grates) is open to the ground. I was just assuming it'd be solid, like a wood stove. What should I put under there to serve as the "floor" of the firebox?
-This is really just a personal opinion, it is open on the bottom so you can have good air flow if you are setting it up on bricks and so the ash can fall down, you can find something or make something to work as an ash tray if you will have it up on bricks so you can just slide it out or if you are boiling on a cement foundation or brick foundation you can just scoop the ashes up… Or if you are adding for air draft you can set it flat on a solid service to seal it off and even put firebricks in the bottom to retain as much heat as possible.

2) The syrup pan is divided into two sections. Each section has a threaded thermometer port. Why would I use two thermometers and not just one on the draw-off side?
-I am assuming you have a spot to possibly draw off on each side, this is so you can flip the pan around to reverse the flow, so you will always have the thermomoter on the side that is where you will be drawing off the syrup.

3) The metal steel framework and front appears to be painted with some heavy grade black paint. Is there anything additional I should paint the frame with to avoid corrosion / rust spots from accidental water contact? Until I get a shed built this unit will be operated outside on sugaring days (but not stored outside,) so I'm nervous about a random rain shower coming my way and rusting things up.
-You should be all set and not need to paint anything else, especially if you have stainless sides, and water/condensation will get on your equipment… You're making steam so it will happen! The only parts that should be painted are the cast sections that are exposed on the outside. And even then, if the arch is hot the water won't stay on it long and will evaporate off of it quickly.

4) What kind of insulation board should I use under the bricks? Is there a specific type/brand I should ask for at the local stove shop?
-It all depends on how heavily you want to insulate it and how much you want to spend. The more you insulate, the more heat/energy you will save and the faster it will boil. I personally put the insulation blanket as the first layer against the arch walls, then in my firebox I have cement board for only the length of the firebox, then I have the whole thing lined with half bricks (1" thick firebricks instead of the heavy 2" thick ones). Using the blanket will be much lighter than heavy bricks or cement board throughout the whole arch and will still work great.

Best of luck.

[wnybassman]

1) The bottom of the firebox (under the grates) is open to the ground. I was just assuming it'd be solid, like a wood stove. What should I put under there to serve as the "floor" of the firebox?



This is how I am dealing with the open bottom, mainly because that is what the previous owner did and he said it worked great. Plus, it brings the evaporator up to a good working height.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s163/wnybassman/2014Shack/archonpedestal_zps93503060.jpg

[red maples]

#1 most don't come with a floor in the firebox. If you have concrete floor no worries put it on the floor. if you have wood you need to put in a bottom using angle iron and sheet metal then arch insulation and brick it just to be sure, then you will need to raise it up so you have proper air flow under the arch. don;t just put it on something it will still get hot enough to scrotch your floor I have seen it happen to other people.

#2 I belive you have a reverse flow pan this means you can switch from side to side to help with niter build up. but what I have found in a smaller evaps is that you just get niter all over the front pan and need to clean the whole pan. Don't waste your money on descaler just use white vinegar it works like a charm.

#3 You can touch up the paint if you like, just hit it with wood stove paint I think its good to 2000* if I remember correctly. it could be a a good idea until you get it into some where dry. Make yourself a little cover for it with some 2x4's and tarp you will notice now that spring rains and or snow showers happen more frequently than you like especially when youre trying to keep something dry!!!

#4 Avoid stove shops at all costs. they will most likely charge you 4 times what you should be paying. first of all try to figure out your square footage and use arch board its super easy to put in and doesn't squish move like ceramic blanket its a little more money but its worth it from easy of use no glue or anything it just goes in. you can order it from bascom's. As for bricks I would just use split bricks and the inustation. they are easier to work with they shouldn't be more than $1.25 to $1.75 a piece go to a brick/ stone place or sometimes a landscaping place might have them.(outdoor fire pits and patio cook stoves are lined with fireplace bricks) I went to 2 stove shops when I did mine and they wanted $4 a piece for them I think I need like 75 bricks or something like that for my 2x6. rent a wet tile cutter for ease of installation and you have a choice between 2 types of cement there is heat cured refractory cement and chemcial cured both are easy to use. your choice.

Hope that helps. just a little more input.

[maple6275]

Awesome, thanks guys. Wnybassman, that looks like a nice setup. But I'm confused about air flow under the bottom of the arch. Why would it need to be raised up or open to the ground if I can just open the lower door for air flow?

[Bucket Head]

Raising an arch up off the ground is technology from way back. Back before forced air units, the only way to increase draft was to allow more air intake to the grates. Most (if not all) ash pit doors don't allow enough air into the firebox for the maximum amount of fire in can generate. Also from way back, they reccomended facing both the arch doors and sugarhouse doors in the direction of the prevailing wind. That way the sugarhouse doors could be opened up and it would help the draft a little bit.

Steve

[wnybassman]

Awesome, thanks guys. Wnybassman, that looks like a nice setup. But I'm confused about air flow under the bottom of the arch. Why would it need to be raised up or open to the ground if I can just open the lower door for air flow?

Raising mine had nothing to do with air flow, mine has a rear firebox mounted blower. I actually thought about filling inside the bricks flush with concrete, but already had the ash door area notched in. Raising mine was all about not having to crawl around on the floor like a salamander when firing. It is pretty low. Now I will be able to sit on a rolling chair when firing, if there is time to sit. lol

[Loch Muller]

I agree with red maples about avoiding stove shops, they can be very pricey. Check out http://www.ceramicfiberonline.com for ceramic blanket or insulation board. Just ordered from them and received my stuff quickly with no issues.