boiling in a steel pan

[11-Nick]

I try so hard not to ask questions that have been asked many times before. I searched the site for awhile before throwing these questions out there. I know they've been hashed already. Just want more specific answers.
1. Assuming all things were equal, (sap, fuel wood, boiling time/temp) what specifically would be the difference between a batch of syrup done in a steel pan, and one done in a SS pan? I understand I can't sell it if it's from a steel pan. Not sure I'm worried about that. I'm looking for a project to increase family time, and a little something I can share with family and friends. I read that it will be "great" just because I made it myself. Well, I understand the thought of enjoying the fruits of my own labor, but would my fruits have tasted even better if they came from a SS pan? All things equal, would there be a difference in taste? Color? (and is color even important?)
2. So steel is a better heat conductor than SS. Once I'm up to temp, I'm no going to get a better boiling rate on steel, right? It just takes SS longer to get up to temp?
3. What exactly is mild steel (as opposed to .... "not" mild steel)? I have a mig, but only welded farm stuff. Where do I go to buy a sheet of mild steel? How thick do I want? What would you expect to pay?
thanks a bunch!
Nick

[Bucket Head]

If you've welded "farm stuff", you've already welded mild steel. Low carbon- thats the most common metal. A pan made from that would be fine for what you want to do. We started out with a mild steel pan my father had fabricated. It was made from 1/8" steel- way thicker than what was needed, but niether of us knew that at the time. Half that thickness would work better and it still would be easy to weld. I doubt that there would be any noticable difference in taste between the two metals. Color would only be important if you were selling it. If its for home use, who cares? I don't think your pancakes will care either. If they do comment on it, just ignore them. Assuming your batch boiling, your going to have very dark syrup because of the cooking time, not because of the steel used. Thats just the way it is.

Weld up a pan and have fun with the family this spring. And don't worry about asking questions that have been asked before. And any steel supply would have mild sheet steel.

Good luck!

Steve

[morningstarfarm]

Many of us here have and some still use mild steel pans. My only concern is that when you weld it you do not want to use flux cored wire...the residue is not good in syrup...if you use gas you will be fine. After boiling in it do not clean the pan...the nitre will preserve it....bring a few gals of vinegar and water to a boil and let sit a few hours and it will clean right up...good luck

[11-Nick]

I have a 220 gas mig. I've never even welded with flux core before, so I'll be good there.
Can I leave sap syrup in the pans for a day or two?, or do I have to empty the pan every time I boil?

[morningstarfarm]

If you are going to batch boil you will empty every time you boil a batch...

[lpakiz]

11-Nick,
While a lot of people DO empty their pan after each batch, it is not unheard of to leave sap in the pan for more than one session. If you do not process enough sap for a "batch" you can just let the fire go down, cover it and resume later. If more than a few days elapse between boils, bring the pan to a boil to pasteurize the contents.
When I had a 2X3 flat pan, I had to boil at least 80 gallons, and a hundred was better, to get enough depth to be able to "finish" syrup in the flat pan.
Or you can empty the partial batch into a container. Refill your pan and resume when more sap is available.

[psparr]

You'll get better heat transfer with the steel pan. Make sure your sides are at least 6" or better. When she's boiling good you'll lose sap over the sides. I've made light syrup batch boiling and dark running continuous.

If you make a steel pan, boil with water and vinegar first then baking soda then plain water. Then rinse it out real good and maybe boil water again.

As far as thickness, go with what you'll be able to weld without blowing holes in it and wasting a sheet of steel.

Good luck!

[happy thoughts]

1. Assuming all things were equal, (sap, fuel wood, boiling time/temp) what specifically would be the difference between a batch of syrup done in a steel pan, and one done in a SS pan? I understand I can't sell it if it's from a steel pan. Not sure I'm worried about that. I'm looking for a project to increase family time, and a little something I can share with family and friends. I read that it will be "great" just because I made it myself. Well, I understand the thought of enjoying the fruits of my own labor, but would my fruits have tasted even better if they came from a SS pan? All things equal, would there be a difference in taste? Color? (and is color even important?)

I think you'll get everything you're expecting out of it and more :). Can't beat sugaring as a family project! As far as I know here in PA, there is no law that says you can't sell syrup made in a steel pan assuming the materials you use are safe for cooking. I think you'll do fine with it. But that said, all things being equal I think you might be able to taste iron in the syrup because it's a reactive metal and prone to oxidation. I can always taste iron in anything simmered in my well seasoned cast dutch oven. That is not necessarily a bad thing and could add more iron to your diet. If it fits your needs and pocketbook then go for it. It really will taste wonderful because you made it :)

[Big_Eddy]

Nick
I boiled with a 2x3 mild steel pan (the same pan) for 20+ years before I made an arch and stainless drop flue pans. I DID NOT notice any change in quality of syrup when I changed over. 2 years ago, I pulled out my flat pan to help boil off some excess sap, and again did not notice any difference attributable to the pans. There will ALWAYS be colour and flavour differences from batch to batch, and my new arch is significantly faster (~4x surface area), but the syrup is no better than it used to be.

I have never noticed any iron taste in my syrup and I have made everything from light to "very dark" with both setups. Batch boiling DOES not automatically mean darker syrup - sap quality and cleanliness have a much bigger impact.

If you plan to weld up a pan, (stainless or mild) I suggest 20ga steel. Minimum 8" high sides and either handles or a drawoff fitting. If you follow the links in my sig, there are some details from when I built mine. A 220V MIG (assuming a good one) can weld 20ga mild steel with 0.024" wire and gas, but it would be a good idea to practice on some scraps for a while first. Stainless really should be welded with TIG at these thicknesses.
If mild steel, then clean off all oil and mill scale before welding, mild and stainless both need to be boiled clean before first use. (Baking soda seems to be most common)

Contact your local steel suppliers for pricing - a 4x8 sheet of 20ga mild steel should be very affordable.

Big_Eddy