Stack options

[The Sappy Steamer]

Does anyone have any suggestions for running a 10" base stack and stack up through roof trusses that are on 4ft centers? The stack isn't insulated, so I should have at least 36" clearance around it from combustible material. I was also wondering if anyone knew of a reasonable source for insulated pipe. I've got too many things going on, between buying an evaporator, building a new sugarhouse, and buying more equipment, to pay $350.00 a section for double wall pipe. I'm hoping to find an alternative that I can run a couple years, and then maybe change. I want to be able to leave the roof jack alone when I do swap. Do you think a box made fron insulating board around my stack would fly? I would like to build things so it would pass my friend "the inspector's" critical eye, should he just pop in. He had to know what I needed a tractor for on agricultural land, so I bet he would have a field day with a stack that wouldn't pass code. Also, there aren't any clearance requirements on the steam stacks are there? As always, I would be appreciative of any suggestions you folks have to offer. Thanks alot
Dan

[Fred Henderson]

Take and wrap your pipe with 1" ceramic blanket. Hold it around with wire and you can figure out a way to hold it up to where you need it or make your insulated box out of arch board either way will be less than 350 clams.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I have 1/4" ceramic blanket wrapping my 10" stack as my trusses are on 2' center and held in place by wire and it works great. The outside of the blanket is just warm. :) Depending on where you are, there is an Amish in PA that could make you 4' sections of stainless double wall for $ 60 to $ 70 a 4' section. :D

Pics of the stack on my website. Here's the link to the photo(s):

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/wvmapler/album/576460762351341777/photo/294928803771146513/12

[brookledge]

If you say you have 36" clearence to any combustables then I'd say that would be ok all by its self but do agree with others that wrapping it with ceramic blanket is the best
Keith

[brookledge]

Also you are correct there is no clearence issues with the steam
Keith

[802maple]

Hey West Virginia Mapler, how long have you had your stack insulated like this? I have seen insulated stacks destroyed in a very few years due to them not being able to cool. Just interested.

[Fred Henderson]

If you say you have 36" clearance to any combustibles then I'd say that would be ok all by its self but do agree with others that wrapping it with ceramic blanket is the best
Keith


I had thought that with a wood burning stove in a house that you only had to be 18" from any combustible material. So with 36" I would say that you are safe. After all it is not your home.

[Fred Henderson]

Also you are correct there is no clearence issues with the steam
Keith


Steam is only going to get 211 drg at sea level and takes more than that to get wood started.

[maple flats]

For 3 saesons I used pipe I made. I took the original single wall and madelight guage 2nd and 3rd layers with spacers to hold it in place so each had an inch of space to the next layer. In other words I converted single wall to triple wall pipe. The outer 2 were riveted together and supported by light weight chain from the trusses and adjusted with turnbuckles. Around here any wood fired stove has to be inspected by the fire dept before it can be fired the first time. When they came to look they thought it was a great idea. This season I have a new larger arch and will need to do something similar but haven't yet. I am just setting the evap in place this week and then will address that.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

802,

That is interesting and hadn't thought of that. This will be the second season and the pipe seams in good shape. It is stainless, will that matter?? In the other building, I just insulated the trusses which were on 4' centers and may be a better idea????

I have no choice really to be on the safe side. If it does burn up in a few years, I will get the Amish that made my hood to make me some double or trip wall stainless for way less than the manufactures would want. :)

I would love to hear some suggestions and feedback??

[archangel_cpj]

I have 24 inch centers and I cut the rook sheathing out replaced it with a piece of 1/8 inch tin then ran the pipe through there I have metal obn the rafters spaced with a nut 1 inch or so to give an air space have had my old stack to 600deg and no pyrolosis at all. figure wood needs to be close to 600 - 650 to light anyhow. The tin is 2 feet across and 3 feet long and except for right against the pipe and maybe 3 - 6 inches out you can touch the tin.

[sbmaple]

we ran our base stack throught the center of two 30 gal oil drums welded end to end .it gives us an air space between the stack and the drum .outside on the roof 16"pipe fits nice over the drum with a weather cap so our 14" stack is completly inclosed.

[Fred Henderson]

802,

That is interesting and hadn't thought of that. This will be the second season and the pipe seams in good shape. It is stainless, will that matter?? In the other building, I just insulated the trusses which were on 4' centers and may be a better idea????

I have no choice really to be on the safe side. If it does burn up in a few years, I will get the Amish that made my hood to make me some double or trip wall stainless for way less than the manufactures would want. :)

I would love to hear some suggestions and feedback??

Why wait for it to burn, unless you want to collect the ins. Get it done now.

[maplehound]

I just used the single wall pipe that came with my rig and ran it through the roof peek. We removed the sheeting around the stack and replaced it with 1/4" metal made to fit the rof peak. This was all engienered by my father. ( good to have a carpenter and contractor on staff) We have had some minumal leaking around the metal plate but that jsut need some calking.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Fred,

I meant the stack wear out/burn up, not the building. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

With double walled pipe, I wouldn't think it would be much difference than 1/4" ceramic blanket as there is not really any cool air getting to the inner layer of pipe where all the heat is????

[H. Walker]

I used to do fire inspections for our local Fire Dpt..
1.) Do not put any insulation tight to the metal stack it will over-heat the metal and cause metal fatigue and failure.
2.) If putting a metal sheild on the stack maintain a 1" air free air space and that will cut clearances in 1/2

Hope this helps!!

[802maple]

The stacks that I saw were stainless. I typically like to just protect the flammable surface. But if you want to double layer do it like h.walker said only I would put 2" of gap so that there is alot of room for air to cool it with both the top and bottom open. My first experience with something like this I had a rod in my arch that I wrapped with insulation to protect it and it deteriated faster than it does unprotected. The explanation was just what H.walker said by my boiler friend

[The Sappy Steamer]

Thanks for the input guys. I was thinking of trying to get a pass for some large ducts or culvert pipe from work and run the stack through that. I thought I would need to put blanket between the two, but it doesn't sound like I should now. I have metal trusses on 4ft. centers in my shack I'm using now, so I didn't have to deal with the heat issue. I'll have time to watch for something ideal that I can rig up, now that I have a better feel for what I'm looking for. I'm planning on using my old set up for this season. I sure have alot of sugaring work ahead of me for next year! I was planning on working on the shack awhile today, but we got an ice storm. My garage is full of lumber, and I've got my hemlock board and batten coming this week. Here I am yackin' away on the Trader. Could be worse. What if there was no Trader? 8O Dan