Extending dry line past a sap ladder

[Maplewalnut]

I think I know the answer but its the off season so..has anyone had any success expending a dry line past a sap ladder? If I could just get vacuum transfer to my trees before a star ladder thaws I would be that much a head of the game. I know some guys have tried a whip type section of pipe to by pass the ladder but it doesnt perform great. Anything else?

Mike

[unc23win]

I think this is why some people are using the dual line style. I have couple of sections myself that would require a lift this season. One fellow on here I talked to use to use the Spider style now he strictly installs dual line and is changing out spiders. Then the next person swears by the spiders. I think it all depends on the vacuum level, the location(freezing thawing) and the desired height of lift. I think for my own research I am going to try both. Each of my sections is less than 300 taps so I don't think any warrant an actual lift. I understand that the ladders may not produce as much sap for various reasons I just want to avoid hauling.

As to your question I don't know of any way other than something like a whip.

[BreezyHill]

Check out the pic in the 2014 CDL catalogue. This is the latest Tech on dry line after a ladder. I will be tring one of this for next season. I have installed two of these but not at the distance per tap they now recommended. One works very well while the other less of a positive result. It really sucks working at nearly 20' off the ground changing tubing, especially in the winter.

One must be very careful on using a dry line with a ladder. My first attempt slowed the ladder to a walk. The removal of the micro bubbles from the last ladder #7 at ladder #3 was very bad. I whipped in a dry line. Added 2" more vac but at the ladder there was only sap and no air. To get the ladder speeded back up I had to inject air again. Not a big deal just had to add another brass needle valve and she took off and was fine again.

I will be connecting at two spots with a 3" PVC section between the wet & dry and major lateral lines. The problem I have is that the lines are all at 2% slope and the laddered lines are moving so much faster than the lateral lines it is hard for laterals to enter the flow of the sap and create turbulence when they do. With the lateral entering into the 3" balance tank the lateral line should stay more clear of sap and transfer vac better. The balance tank is mounted onto a fence post with rubber straps for extra support and reduce tension on the fittings. Rubber strap for give, if a branch falls or the dumb deer come running thru the bush.
Use a screw type cap on the top for cleaning and a slip x threaded y on the bottom. I only use 1" mains so I will have an adapter connector threaded into the 1 1/2" tee ports of the pvc tee. The reason for the y is to have a better merging of the flows together. You will need a 45 elbow to connect the Y to the balance tank and two short sections of 1 1/2"pvc. Use clear glue and primer. The purple doesn't look as neat.

Good Luck
Ben