wet/dry line to mainline junction

[PerryFamily]

Looking for suggestions.
Current tank location has three 3/4 mains (300 taps) .
Moving the releaser and pump about 500' away on the paved road and at a power source.
What is the best connection from the new wet dry to the existing mains?
I was thinking a booster tank or a s.s/PVC manifold?
What are some pros and con's to each?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance

[unc23win]

Are you looking for 100 different answers because that might be what you get ha.

Personally I would put in a booster in place of your releaser then run the wet and dry from there. I like using boosters (transfer tanks) and valves for each line so I can isolate lines and look for leaks, it seems to work well for me. However, there is definitely more than one way to do it. Perhaps the cheapest way would be to simply extend the existing lines.

[Walling's Maple Syrup]

Looking for suggestions.
Current tank location has three 3/4 mains (300 taps) .
Moving the releaser and pump about 500' away on the paved road and at a power source.
What is the best connection from the new wet dry to the existing mains?
I was thinking a booster tank or a s.s/PVC manifold?
What are some pros and con's to each?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance

A wet and dry line with the "whip" system would work fine to hook your 3/4" mains in or as unc said, a wet and dry hooked into a booster at the junction would work as well. If it was mine, I would probably go with the booster with valves on each of the 3/4", because it is easier to isolate leaks this way.
Another question, how long are the existing 3/4" mains that are in place now?

[BreezyHill]

PVC manifold of 3" is easily expanded, tapped and threaded for additional lines, can be made so both ends can be unscrewed for cleaning or retrieving line sponge cleaners, can be designed for complete drainage of sap by standing upright
PVC will insulate the sap from rapid temp drops and create fewer chances of sap freezing in the unit. If the unit is located in the sun a black cover can be added to help the unit thaw in early season runs and removed during late season to keep the sap cooler on those warm late season runs.

Cons: If you don't already have a 3/4" tap for NPT you will need to visit ebay and get one to threaded the chamber for the mains fittings, failure to use pipe dope on the threads will be a location for future leaks, If you use a plexi glass end cover you will spend time watching the sap come in from the lines...this is actually a pro because it will help you to discover which line is flowing better and learn how to better lay lines in the future.
While SS is easier to clean, if near a road it can be a 2 legged pest attracter.

With the latest data from Cornell on washing lines with H2O2 PVCis looking better all the time. It is very easy to have a quick disconnect on a valve on the PVC balance tank and pull up to the unit with a tank of wash liquid. A small 12 volt pump can inject the fluid into the system and flood the wet and dry lines, the pvc unit and the lateral lines all at one time. Let the system set for 30 minutes or more and start the vac to suck the system dry. Do this in the fall and you can easily find any squirrel damage from the past months and be all set for an early run. I would have a pressure switch on the pump so you don run a real high pressure and blow the taps off the plugs you use. My unit will be set at 20 psi to start so I can walk the lines and get all the sir out of the lines for full product contact. I am luck as I still have two sons and their girl friends at home, and they enjoy running the atvs to the house to refill the tanks...its like the sugar cookie song...between each batch is time for some kissin n huggin. LOL

Ben

[PerryFamily]

Currently there is about 1500' of 3/4" main in 3 sections.
I was thinking a booster tank would be pretty simple.
I worry about freezing but I guess a manifold will freeze too.
Are the boosters supported by mainline wire or does there need to be some sort of bracket on a tree of some sort?

[Moser's Maple]

yes many build a stand for the booster to sit on, or some come with a stand, but may still need a platform to sit on. In my opinion I would say a booster would be your best bet. like others said just place the booster where the releaser sat and run your wet/dry to the booster. actually if financial feasible a second wet line isn't a bad idea in case of freeze ups. as for vertical or horizontal I'll leave that up to your personal preference

[unc23win]

Like Jake said its a matter of preference I have both horizontal and vertical. I think horizontal might drain better, but they are harder to make a stand for actually more like a cradle. The other thing with horizontal is that if the wet dry are on top and bottom its hard to get the fitting so it doesn't stick up in the bottom. I had to cut my fittings so when they are tight they are flush with the bottom inside. Vertical was easier to install just because of the stand in fact I have one I sat on a stump and used a guide wire to hold it one way and it never moved all season.