DC Electric Fence Charger Battery

[Amber Gold]

Not maple related, but didn't find the answer online, so thought I'd post it here.

I bought a DC fence charger used, and it came with a battery (link [URL="http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/zarebareg%3B-15-mile-battery-operated-low-impedance-fence-charger?cm_vc=-10005"]here[/URL), which has since died, so I need a replacement. How big of a deep cycle battery do I need to run the fence for say two weeks between charges? If I wanted to add a solar panel charger, what would I use for that? I know little about fence chargers and solar chargers.

Thanks for the help.

[BreezyHill]

I am a Gallagher dealer and certif. repair. You will need to know the joules of the charger to size the battery properly. Solar charge is a good option but is often rather pricey. but our small units go for about $150 with a built in panel. Then you can go upto $460 for larger units. These batteries are in the $25-45 range and last about 2 years if maintained in winter with access to light for atleast a few hours.

If going with a deep cycle be certain that the unit will handle the 6 or 12 volt power. There was one out there that used 24 volt back 20 years ago. Stainless case and glass top. Carried quite a charge but didn't last long on a charge.

PM with charge specs and I will try to direct you better.

Ben

[maple flats]

If you look at the old battery the info will likely be on it. Solar keeps getting more reasonable. If you go that route you need to match the panel to the size of the battery OR use a charge controller (CC). a CC comes in 2 types and the cheaper ones are considerably less efficient, cheap ones are pwm (pulse width modulation) and are typically 30-40% efficient. Some are even lower. The better ones are MPPT (maximum power point tracking) and they are far better, with efficiencies in the 95% range and durability is high too, the PWM types fail far more often. The biggest thing about the efficiency is that with a MPPT you need a much smaller solar panel.

[Amber Gold]

The fence charger is a Zareba 1 joule DC charger. I think the battery I have now is 650 CCA w/ 120 min. of reserve capacity. It looks like replacement cost is ~$100.

Dave, none of that means anything to me. I am solar illiterate, so I'll need some help here. What am I looking at for a solar panel/battery combination? Is the cost comparable to buying a $100 battery?

Thanks

[BreezyHill]

it will be less $$$ to buy the battery. a panel and controller for a 1 jould fencer runs in he $217 area. How ever you could watch ebay and get a used s17 chargers and be able to hook them up parallel and charge he battery. It will keep up with he usage fairly well but not 100% so the lack of the control uni will no be an issue. Jus need to check the voltage on the battery from time to time.

These units usually go fairly cheap...$10-$25 each and they have the panel built into the top half of the controller box, with a mount for a meal post in the base. Soon hey will be a dime a dozen if people dont chuck them; as the boards are no made any longer. these are high efficiency panels no cheap home useage cells. So they last a good long time.

[maple flats]

Even with the solar to charge, you still need the battery. The battery is simply being charged by the solar. I'm not familiar with fencers, but a properly sized solar set up can charge the battery. With the right battery it will then last 5-7 yrs. After that, swap the battery and the solar panel is good for 50+ years, the controller maybe 10 yrs.
The first solar panels built back in the late 1940's are still producing power, however, it is less than they produced in their early years. For solar a general rule of thumb is that they lose about 10% in 10 years, and 10% of the remaining the next 10 and so forth. Solar is thus long lived, batteries are a constant replaceable. The batteries you buy for a riding tractor or lawnmower might last 2-3 years. A battery built for solar is generally 5-7 years for the low end and 10-12 yrs for the better ones. However, no matter which you use, they will all need replacement at some point and that will rarely if ever seem long enough.

[Amber Gold]

Sorry for the delayed response. I left for the weekend and getting back online.

So before I left, I took a battery out of my truck to hook the fence up while we were gone. Charger still doesn't work. Battery brand new and starts my truck. I'm guessing there's an issue with the charger and not the battery. How do you troubleshoot DC fence chargers? I checked the wires, and they're still hooked up. We've been getting plenty of rain this summer, so there should be enough moisture in the ground...if this could be an issue. I have the same charger at my second hive location, so I could swap them and see if it does anything.

Earlier this summer, I had something come through when the hives were young and killed one hive and knocked this one over, so I'd like to get the charger working again.

Thanks for the help.

[Amber Gold]

I checked Northern Tools website and they carry a couple different solar powered 12V trickle chargers. They carry a 2.5W model for $15 and a 7W model for $40. They include the panel, alligator clips, and overcharge protection. How much power does a fence charger use, so I can size the panel?

[BreezyHill]

JOsh, It is not recommended to open a fence charger. Several years ago a person died when he touched the wrong spot. When they don't work they can have stored power in large amounts. When working correctly the capacitors are dumped when power is removed. When not right they can pack a punch. Even trained techs get bit from time to time. Not a good experience...trust me.

Ben

[500592]

A trained tech would short the capacitor correctly with the right ppe and there would be no trouble.

[Amber Gold]

Last weekend, I ran a bunch of extension cords, and hooked up an AC fence charger I have, and the system works fine. How do I troubleshoot a DC fence charger that randomly stopped working? I've used the batteries elsewhere, and they work.

Thanks

[BreezyHill]

Sorry; but there seems to be others that would read this and could become injured due to not understanding the complexity of the system and think that shorting the capacitor would drain all power in a nonfunctional system; thus I cant comment further.

I would return the unit to the place of purchase and ask them to service the unit. If they are unable, then look for another unit. There are several units on Ebay that are priced right.

Ben

[500592]

Sorry if I offended you breezyhill but I was just pointing out that there are SAFE ways to work on them and that with a little research and common sense I am sure he can fix it. One easy way to also make sure there is no chance for elctricucian is to unplug the fence controller for a week or two and then work on it.

[Amber Gold]

It's been unplugged now for a couple of weeks.

Is it simple wiring inside, so it'll be pretty easy to open it up and see if there's a loose wire or something?

The unit was bought used, and it worked for the first month or so that I had it.

[BreezyHill]

Wrong again. The guy that was killed opened a unit that had been setting for over a year and the board had enough locked power to short his pace maker. Offended no, surprised. These things can pack a punch. When they work right they will drain themselves with one last pulse after power is removed. At the school the instructor took a unit that had been unplugged for 4 weeks and set a potato on the board to simulate a finger. It made a loud pop sound and you could smell cooked potato.

Simple wiring...no our units are all module boards as are speed rite units. Capacitors are often built right into the board and a secondary capacitor will be on large units. These units often will put out 7000 to 12,000 volts...minor amperage so they don't kill. But if the timer system is messed up the shock duration wont be 3-9 10,000 of a second with a one to two second cycle. It can be continuous pulse or even constant. I had one cook a 20000 volt tester that sat there and just built power and would not discharge. Bad timer circuit.

99 out of 100 times you will be fine but that one time could be your last. That is one reason that rebuilding of these units is being terminated. To many law suits looking to get $$$ out of the manufactures. If you see modules on ebay they contact the seller and the listing is terminated quickly. I have seen that happen twice this year.

Without the correct connection equipment it is nearly impossible to fix a board and have it last. If it is a bad fuse it is an easy fix...BUT be Supper careful if you open that case.