Here it goes...12x16 sugarhouse from the ground up

[TrentonMaple]

First and foremost I need to give full credit to the source of this sugarhouse:

WoodButcher's fantastic thread http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?17574-New-12x16-Sugar-House-...-post-amp-learn-as-i-go-...-pics

Without that awesome thread I wouldn't have had the inspiration to get this thing finally going.

Last winter while our new house was being built, I boiled on a Mason 2x4 in a Harbor Freight "portable garage" setup. Basically a tarp lased to cheap metal tubing. While it worked, it was a muddy hellhole in the spring and the embers coming out of the stack would burn holes in the plastic. Not a multi-season solution by any means. I had to lay about 2 dozen pallets just to deal with the mud.

Now that we're in our new house, I decided to get going on the sugarhouse. Now, I am not a carpenter by any means. But I have always wanted to learn some building skills, and for me, the best way I can learn something is to dive into it and do it. So please feel free to give any constructive criticism or suggestions as this goes along.

I posted a few weeks ago about sonotubes, and many people recommended a slab. I can certainly see the advantages, but it wasn't going to work in my situation due to it's cost and the placement of the building on a more remote corner of my property.

So I'm going with sonotubes as I originally meant to. J-bolts in the corners holding 2x8 sills. The sonotubes were given to me free from a constuction project that changed course.

Site layout:
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/photo4_zps3c2d5b77.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/photo4_zps3c2d5b77.jpg.html)

Rented this awesome machine to dig the post holes. So much easier than the 2-man diggers. My soil is terribly rocky with billions of fist to cantaloupe sized glacial cobbles.
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/photo2_zps1932e5da.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/photo2_zps1932e5da.jpg.html)
Pouring footers:
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/photo5_zpsa9a6553a.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/photo5_zpsa9a6553a.jpg.html)

I have a 24" piece of rebar in the footer extending up into the tube to lock them together. Plan on starting the tubes themselves tonight.

Here we go!

[wnybassman]

Lots of shacks going up this year. Looking forward to your progress! I just finished the roof on mine today, but it still feels like I am crunched for time before cold weather sets in. Maybe if we can get back to summer weather that feeling will go away. lol

[maple flats]

Talk about crunched for time. Back in 2003 I built mine. I started by getting a building permit (which I later found out was not needed for Agriculture), a process that took from July until mid Nov. for final approval. Then on the day before Thanksgiving I was able to get the trench for the posts and the pit for the arch dug. I set the poles and braced them after work and weekends, built the trusses and was ready to set trusses on Dec. 31. I rounded up a party, my grown kids (and spouses) and 2 neighbor boys. We set 13 very heavy rough cut trusses that day and braced everything. Then during the next week I put on the roof decking and framed the cupola. The next weekend, my oldest boy helped me put the steel on. From there the weather went to real winter. I only managed to get a temp. wooden deck made and set up the evap. on that. The sugarhouse was not even close to done but I made syrup. It took me 3 more years before I was on a concrete slab.
You sound like you are ahead of the curve in my book.

[TrentonMaple]

Last night I inspected the footers and the rebar connecting stem I placed at the bottom. We had a ton of rain overnight so the concrete stayed nice and moist while it cured. Now the base for each tube is nice and level.

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/photo21_zpsef9fffa8.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/photo21_zpsef9fffa8.jpg.html)

Then I got a little stumped. I was given these galvanized metal tubes free from my father-in-law. He was going to build a camp on them, but decided to pour a slab instead. So I got 10 of these 8" tubes for free. I know sonotubes are typically heavy cardboard, but I don't see why these won't work.

My issues here is getting them all cut level with each other. I had an idea first to use a water level, but when I tried, it just seemed awkward and imprecise. Then I figured I could run a mason string along them with a line level and mark them all. I'm still not sure what I'll do, I'll be chewing on this today while I'm at work.

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/photo11_zpsa13ee602.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/photo11_zpsa13ee602.jpg.html)

Finally, I was going to have them be about 10" above grade for where I start the mudsill. This sound ok?

[wnybassman]

Probably a laser level would be your best bet for getting a mark on them all the same.

[SeanD]

If not a laser level, a sight level on a tripod will do as well, but you need a second person to be your stick man.

[mcsap]

I look forward to watching your posts Trenton. I am going to lag your project by a few weeks and am just getting to the point of digging post holes. What is that machine that you rented called? I was planning to get a 2 man auger but if something else works better, I'm all for it.

Thanks,
John

[TrentonMaple]

A few updates on the build.

Got the sonotubes leveled. I accomplished this by partially backfilling in around them lightly to firm them in, and then I *tried* to use a homemade water level. That did not work. Wasn't precise enough. So, I went to Harbor Freight and got this cheap laser level (http://www.harborfreight.com/16-laser-level-with-swivel-head-69259.html) which I set up at the correct height. It projects a horizontal line, so by waiting till night, I was able to easily mark all the tubes at the correct height. I lopped them off and set to concreting. Set the J-bolts using the strings and a plumb bob.

Once it was cured, I set the mudsills on the j-bolts, lined them up, and whacked them with a hammer to mark the holes to be drilled. Bolted them on, and built the box. 16' PT 2x8's with joists.

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/photo12_zpsfab82526.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/photo12_zpsfab82526.jpg.html)

Then I got 6 sheets of 3/4" PT plywood. Holy cow is that stuff expensive! $41 a sheet at Lowes. Painful, and super heavy and awkward to load. Used adhesive and 2" screws to fasten it.

Now the fun part - framing the walls. I've never, ever even come close to attempting this level of carpentry before. Prior to this the most complex thing I've ever built was a birdhouse when I was a kid. But thanks to Youtube University and much time browsing internet forums, I'm making an attempt.

Got my first wall framed, with the back door. Sole plate, jack stud, king stud, this stuff is so fun! Some of this might seem lame to seasoned builders, but the feeling of hoisting up a wall you framed yourself, and getting it plumbed - so cool!

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/photo11_zps5eb92d16.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/photo11_zps5eb92d16.jpg.html)

At this point the back wall and side wall (in prior pic) are up. Tonight I will hopefully get the third wall up with the window openings roughed in.

Got a quote for $405 for 1x10 board & batten lumber.

One question - I've seen people put the siding (or sheathing) on before starting the rafters. Is this for more stiffness and security? Should I do this?

[wnybassman]

One question - I've seen people put the siding (or sheathing) on before starting the rafters. Is this for more stiffness and security? Should I do this?

Yeah, mainly for strength. Back when I built houses we sheeted/squared all the walls before we even stood them. You may have done this after the picture was taken, but you'll at least want angle braces on those walls (across the studs from top plate to bottom plate) to hold them perfectly level/plumb.

Lookin' good!!!

[TrentonMaple]

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/sugarhouseframed_zps536cf9e1.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/sugarhouseframed_zps536cf9e1.jpg.html)

All framed in. Just putting in the nailing blocks between studs now. That is a tedious job.

Thanks for the angle brace tips, wnybassman. I did put those in after the pic was taken. I have them off now except for 2 inside braces. I have the double top plates on now and the corner posts in, and it's really stiff and square. I can climb on it to nail the top plates.

Had a change of plans. I was initially going to put in a centered french door, but I didn't like the feel of the $300 interior french doors I was going to use. They just felt to flimsy and cheap to hold up to an Upstate NY winter, so I decided to place a single exterior french door and another window on the front.

I have my siding now, you can see about half of it inside there. It's 10" boards and 3" battens. I'll start hanging once the nailers are in.

In case Woodbutcher is check this thread - I noted when you sided your sugarhouse, you sided right over the window openings. I assume you went back after and cut them out from the inside. Is there a reason for this? Is it easier than making the cuts in the boards before they go up?

[Flat Lander Sugaring]

Nice Job, yea i think its easier to go back and cut windows out instead of making all the cuts when putting on siding.

[wnybassman]

How you do your windows depends on a few things. Mine were used "new construction" windows with a nail fin. I decided to nail the window right to the framing because I had a 1 1/2" reveal on the window, and between the 1" thick board and 1" thick trim that would set my window back about a 1/2". That makes for a great look and an easy caulk job. The bottom piece of trim I beveled 10 degrees so water will not sit there.

It kind of boils down (no pun intended lol) to the look you want and the style of the window.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s163/wnybassman/2014Shack/eastside_zps03147cd9.jpg

[NhShaun]

Looks great so far! I see you even bought a nice tool belt, Don't need those for making bird houses haha. I'm planning to build something similar to this before winter hits as well, so i am glad to have seen this post. What are your plans for the roof/cupola anyway?

-What WnyBassman said, it all depends on the type of windows you plan to install. Perhaps you could post a picture?

[unc23win]

I did my windows just like wnybassman. The framing on the inside makes a nice sill for a shelf.

[TrentonMaple]

Half of the siding is on now. This pic is the woodshed side where i will attach a lean-to. The rear wall is done too. I ended up going with 10" rough cut boards and 3" battens. It's green, and I was planning on letting it dry out for a year before staining it. I butted the boards right up to each other, and figure as they dry they will shrink and expose the gap where I will place the battens.

As for windows, I will be using some inexpensive 29.75x38" windows from a local bargain materials store. They are new construction type, with the nailing fin. I can't really side up to the rough openings with the boards, because the boards have to cover the nailing fin. I don't have the windows yet, so I'm at a bit of a standstill. I was planning on nailing the windows to the studs, then covering the fin with flashing tape, then cover it with a board. Finally I'll trim it out with batten material. (ps - thanks for the 10degree bevel idea - I'm going to use that)

Last night while I was lying in bed it suddenly occurred to me that I have to have a batten in the dead center of the gable peak, or else it would look stupid. I'm glad I thought of that now, so i can start my boards in the center and work out.


wnybassman - what size are those windows?


http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/IMG_8464_zps913fee72.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/IMG_8464_zps913fee72.jpg.html)

[wnybassman]

wnybassman - what size are those windows?


My windows are 49h x 34w. I would have preferred 45 inch tall windows so a standard height counter top would have gone under the windows, but I can't complain. As it is, I will probably just have a nice sturdy work surface (2'x4' or 2'x5' maybe?) that is on heavy duty lockable casters to roll it where ever I need it, or just get it out of the way.

[TrentonMaple]

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/Image3_zps4c1f1b10.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/Image3_zps4c1f1b10.jpg.html)

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/Image4_zps17a985b8.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/Image4_zps17a985b8.jpg.html)

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/Image_zps37109f0d.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/Image_zps37109f0d.jpg.html)

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/Image2_zpscfe52d69.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/Image2_zpscfe52d69.jpg.html)

I'm ready to get a roof on this thing.

Leaving the battens off until the green boards dry out a bit an shrink.

I'll pick up the 20' ridge beam tomorrow and start cutting rafters.

[TrentonMaple]

Put the rafters up today. Notched for the purlins to run lengthwise.

We have a week of rain forecast. Hoping to get at least a tarp up overhead tomorrow.

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/TrentonMaples/photo1_zpsa605518e.jpg (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/TrentonMaples/media/photo1_zpsa605518e.jpg.html)

[wnybassman]

Lookin' good!!

[NhShaun]

Coming along great so far. Good call on leaving the battens off till the wood dries a bit, could also put them on and just nail one side. My father suggested that on my 12x16 cabin and it worked pretty well for my green board siding haha. Also good thing you had that night time idea of starting the boards from the center to keep the batten centered, it would have always stuck out to you. So i take it you aren't installing a copula, are you just going to boil with the doors and windows open? Or setting up a hood?

[TrentonMaple]

Oh no, there will most definitely be a cupola! Wouldn't be a sugarhouse without one!

I just figured it would be easier to set up all the rafters along the ridge beam before framing in the cupola. Then once the cupola is framed I can go back and remove the area of rafters and ridge beam inside it.

I've chewed on this for awhile. My stack is going to exit the peak of the roof, so the ridge beam will have to be cut there. I think that structurally it will be OK to have the ridge beam cut out for the cupola since I have 2 lengthwise purlins running the length of the roof on both sides. The purlins should provide enough stiffness to the rafters to resists forward/backward strain. Also, there will be rafter ties on the bottom portion of the rafters as well. Once the roof sheathing is on, that will also stiffen it up.

Am I missing anything here?

[NhShaun]

Ahh ok, i saw that the ridge beam was running the full length so just assumed you weren't doing a cupola. I agree it is necessary to make in official Sugarhouse! And you are right, probably much easier with the method you chose. With the purlins, rafter ties and roof sheathing i think it should be plenty strong enough without a doubt. Keep up the good work, it sure is coming along great.

I've been building my own little off grid cabin with the same dimensions since 2010. We chose a pretty similar design even though they are used for totally different things. Certainly was a learning experience and now its my 4 season getaway..soon to be residence during the upcoming sugar season.