Need vac pump advice quick

[cjf12]

Can anyone tell me if a ruvac model wau150 would work for maple? I am ignorant to vacuum pumps and would like to start and just saw this one that I may be able to get. All I can figure out is 108 cfm.

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

I have no idea. But would think a little more information may help. Do you have a picture and any other information.

I found this in a search, is it anything like this?
http://www.phxequip.com/equipment.3972/4579.aspx

Ben

[cjf12]

That looks exactly like it. Only difference is model number to the one you have linked is 151 instead of 150, assuming newer with minor change. Will this thing run all day and do the job? It's air cooled, will it over heat if pulling vac all day?

[BreezyHill]

108 cfm is a lot even at 15inches of Hg...on a standard installation figure 1 cfm/ 50 taps, on a leak free and checked regularly figure 100 tap per cfm.

According to this...http://www.ajvs.com/leybold-oerlikon-wau-150-vacuum-booster-wau150-6882

the pump is for boosting vac transfer that is obtained from a pump on a closed system. Thus I would think it will not work for maple production...but...I am not familiar with this unit just what I have read.

Good Luck.

BEn

[cjf12]

I was wondering that Ben, I still get pretty foggy trying to figure out the specs on some of these pumps, but did notice it talked about boosting for more efficiency. I don't quite get the whole idea of it so was still hopeful it may work. If anyone does know how to decipher those numbers and terminology, please give me your thoughts. If I don't act soon it will be on a truck to anywhere but here. While I am at it. When and how do you all know you need some sort of cooling system on your pumps to keep them from overheating?

[Thompson's Tree Farm]

. While I am at it. When and how do you all know you need some sort of cooling system on your pumps to keep them from overheating?[/QUOTE]

On the old piston style pumps (surge SP's etc) we used the spit and sizzle test. Spit on the head, if it sizzles, you need additional cooling.

[BreezyHill]

190-200 degrees is the temp you do not want to pass. To cool is also an issue.

To hot and the unit will start to break down the seals...this will lead to a lubrication failure and seizure.

To cool and you will get condensation in the unit and this will lead to rust and pump failure.

Vacuum is simply removing matter from a confined space. Most generally the matter removed is air from the tubing system. The amount of air removed is measured in Cubic Feet per Minute( CFM), Let me give you some additional numbers to think about.

A Delaval 73 pump I rebuilt would do around 25 cfm at 15", 17 at 20", 8 at 25" and just under 6 at 28". It is harder to remove air from the system as the amount of vac increases.

Piston pumps are good units...Surge BB1, BB2, Sp-11, BB3, SP 22, BB4 in order from small to large. Rotary vane pumps move large amounts of air quicker than a piston pump due to the speed at which the compressed area is released. Most piston pumps run at rpms of390-475 while Rotary units are from 600 to 1300 depending on the unit and motor size.

Small amounts of vacuum can also be produced when a releaser of he electric style dumps. The pumping of the sap from the system will increase vacuum. My unit dumps 2 gallons each cycle which is equal to .26 cubic feet. A standard releaser of 5 gallons is .67 cubic feet that must be brought back to vacuum level every cycle.

Our old releaser had a 1 gallon releaser so every dump cycle it would consume .14 CF under high flow times it would dump every 3 seconds and consumed 2.8 CFM. Due to the way we setup the manifold with check valves the sap lines were under full vacuum at all times and the releaser drew directly on the pump thru a large line to reduce the effect of vac loss. We also utilized a balance tank to have vacuum in reserve to handle the releasers cycle.

Balance tank is a container that the vac pump is attached to, and serves as a location that will serve to maintain a consistent amount of vacuum on the lines by counter acting a momentary loss of vacuum caused by the releaser cycling.

I use a 3" PVC pipe for a manifold for my dry lines and to connect the vacuum pump to the releaser. The 3" line is about 10' in total and is also a balance tank as well as a degasser to separate any sap from the free tree gases or air in the lines. The 3" line is also a great way to reduce friction losses from the air rubbing down the line walls.

Friction is a huge vacuum transfer reducer. The friction on a 1" main line after 200 feet makes a 100 cfm pump equal to a 30" pump and after 400 feet the same 100 cfm pump can only move the same cfm as a 15 cfm pump can at the same distance. At a distance of 5' a 100 cfm pump and an 80 cfm pump are equal. This is why producers are adding dry lines and over sizing mainlines. An effort to get the cfms from the pump to the bush where they are needed.

There is a great deal of calculating and figuring that goes into designing and installing a good vacuum system. It can be done by anyone that has a calculator and a grasp on the concepts of vacuum transfer and the location and number of taps in their bush and the distance to these taps. You will also need to know the grade of the bush to maintain a minimum of 2% slope.

I suggest a visit to google earth to get some distances and grade for your bush. Calculating slope is a minor speed bump on the road to tubing design, as is the number of taps, pump size, etc.

Personally I would skip the ruvac unit as it is very costly to rebuild if it will make enough vac for your bush. Small dairy style rotary pumps can be had for $500 or less.

So people have them given to them.

Let me know if you have other questions.
Ben

[cjf12]

Thanks for taking the time to pass along all the info. Much appreciated and I think your right about the pump, will let it go and keep our eyes open. I still,have a gast 1040hd that needs rebuilt, just need to find time and know how to get it done. Thanks again.