IBC Anatomy 101

[Clarkfield Farms]

I've done a search but I'm not sure if I'm not even more confused reading the results. Here's the issue:

I brought one of my 275-gallon totes back to the house for spring cleaning (it was washed last year but I wanted to give it a good rinse before collecting sap), poured 10 gallons of hot water into it, scrubbed & sloshed, then opened the valve to drain. Except the valve didn't open, the part of the valve through which the shaft passes split and the valve is now inoperable. FWIW, the valve was not frozen. They're just cheap valves and as the description on the IBC sites state, these plastic totes are "Limited Life." I don't think that the part is a repair/replace part, it's all plastic. But I figure I can force the existing valve open and put on - something. Too many options, it would seem. I can go with the fernco fitting from TSC and a PVC pipe/valve as I've read about on here, but the local TSC had no idea what I was talking about when I called and asked about the Fernco sleeve/fitting. And, what size would I buy? It looks like it measure 2-1/4", but it's not exact and I'm not sure if it's metric. And Basco's - will this work? The IBC's use buttress "thread," right? They generally say 2", but --?? --> http://www.bascousa.com/polypropylene-ibc-ball-valves-bv2n-vcn-62.html

I have to do something about this today (or at least ASAP!) and have no time to spare. On top of everything else going on this season, there are family emergencies that have sprouted up in mine, my wife's, and our daughter's families... This vavle issue isn't as important but in-between things I do want to get it taken care of.

I'm certain that I'm not the only one that's had this problem arise, and I know that the ingenuity of Maplers is legendary :) ; Thanks in advance for any replies, and if I may ask for specific replies because I'm not going to be free to chase down unknowns.

Thank you,
- Tim

[Clarkfield Farms]

OK probably all set.

[Snowy Pass Maple]

This page has a nice diagram of thread types at the bottom and should help you sort out what you have:

http://www.lexingtoncontainercompany.com/275-Gallon-IBC-Totes.html

You will almost certainly be looking at mail-ordering something - either an adapter to convert the thread to NPT, so you can use cheaper valves readily available locally (which is what I've done) or buying a replacement buttress thread valve. Lots of sources were just posted in another recent thread.

I thought I saw on here that the flexible fernco couplings are not food safe. Maybe you can somehow line the inside of one with a ziploc shell that you tighten under the clamps for a temporary fix?

-Colin

[maple flats]

Tim, I'll check tomorrow, I may have a loaner valve until you can get one. Give me a call about mid morning.
Dave

[Clarkfield Farms]

Thank you, Dave, will do.

[Russell Lampron]

I thought I saw on here that the flexible fernco couplings are not food safe. Maybe you can somehow line the inside of one with a ziploc shell that you tighten under the clamps for a temporary fix?

-Colin

I read on the label of a Fernco fitting that they are for drain and waste water use only. That being said, how much sap contact is there going to be when you butt to pipes together and connect them with a Fernco sleeve. I use as many PVC couplers as possible but do use Fernco's too.

[Snowy Pass Maple]

True, but for about 1 cent, couldn't you just cut the bottom off a ziploc bag, inserted it in the fernco fitting, make sure it reaches past your clamps and then you have a 1 cent upgrade to food-safe?

I don't mean to start a flame war or judge anyone... just thought it might be a practical suggestion to take away any concern.

[maple flats]

I think the drain and waste label is so it is a non pressure. The rubber should be neoprene I think.