Frozen Float Box Solutions

[vttsa]

So I've got a 2x6 waterloo set up, with one floatbox on the flue pan to regulate the flow into the pans from the tank, we've boiled twice this year and the second time I went to boil, due to the cold weather the float box was frozen solid. After about an hour I had it thawed out enough to get the chunk of ice out. Anyway, with the cold weather we seem to be having this is going to be happening a bunch it would seem. There's really no good way to drain the float box, and I can't light up till it's de iced because the pans will thaw out way before it and I won't be able to get sap in. So I've got two ideas (and am open to others) and want to know what everyone thinks would be best. Like to keep this as inexpensive as possible also...

1) Stock tank heater: found one for 48.99 that is thermostatically controlled to keep up to 25 gal. from freezing, figure i could just throw that in at the end of the night kinda like a block heater, and I'd be set the next time I go to boil. The catch is that the heater isn't rated as being food grade, however I figure its for horses water tanks so it shouldn't be to toxic right?

2) Heat Lamp: Was also thinking I could get one of those heat lamps like what is used for chickens and just clamp it onto the side of the float box every night and leave it on. Problem I see with that is that I don't know if it would either a) keep it from freezing or b) get the sap to warm and facilitate bacteria

[PerryW]

When I have a frozen float box, I just fill a 5 gallon pail with fresh sap and fire up the evaporator. Once it starts boiling, I just dipper hot sap into the float box to thaw it out. You may need to dump some of the raw sap in in case the evaporator needs sap before things are thawed out.

[sugarman3]

Boil some water and then pour it into your float or completely drain your back pan into a barrel and then when to boil,put it back in your evaporator,probably won't be more than10-15 gal.

[WESTMAPLES]

I do the same as perryw, and it works well. just keep an eye on it with some raw sap in a bucket.

[markct]

At end of the previous boil I always overfill the flue pan about 2 to 3 inches, when I start the fire the next boil the float box is melted well before the evaporator needs sap.

[johnallin]

Same here. When I'm finished, I flood the flue pan with about 2" and the syrup pan with an addition 1". Some of that will steam off during the night as the rig cools off, what's left gives me a cushion next time I fire - and undoubtedly forget to open some valves....

[lpakiz]

Last year I used a 500 watt halogen work light shining on the bottom of the float box.
I have another idea this year. Our coffee pot carafe broke, so for 16.99 I bought a new coffee maker. I took the heater element out of the old one, thinking if it kept the coffee warm, it would thaw a float box. I rigged up a couple of brackets to keep it under the float box. I havn't tried it yet, so I can't say for sure if it will work. It is 600 watts, with a thermostat on it to control the heat.
On another note, the element is fused to a 3/8 diameter aluminum coil, which is what boils the water to make the coffee, and I wondered if 600 watts would be sufficient to pre-heat sap??? As long as you can flow enough to keep it from hiccuping, would it work?

[jmayerl]

My smoky lake float box has a drain in it.......no freezing here!

[markct]

I have a drain on mine too but what do I do with the 15 gal or so that I would drain out, then would freeze in buckets, and I would have to thaw to put back in the evap next time?

[northwoods_forestry]

My float box freezes all the time but I've never had a problem with it thawing itself out once I have the arch fired up and running. If I'm at all worried about liquid levels in the pans dropping too low it's easy enough adjust the float level and let in more sap even if the float itself is still frozen in. A heat lamp in the arch on really cold nights keeps the pan itself from freezing hard enough to cause any damage.

I really try to avoid flooding the pans at the end of boiling. I like to start up right were I finished off and flooding the pans with sap means a lot of boiling before you're back to making syrup. Also means you could be faced with pulling off a big batch of syrup with the first draw and all the hazards that entails. Glen Goodrich gave me that advice when I was first starting out and he knows a thing or two about running evaporators.

[Daves Maple Farm]

Trouble light with a 60watt bulb may work. (Old style bulb, not none of those curly que things).

[markct]

I have never had a problem with a big drawoff at the start of a boil, I only flood the flue pan, the syrup pan stays where its at, or if there is a good bit of fire still in the arch I let a little bit more in. My feelings are that the flue pan isn't too sensitive, basicly just making concentrate to feed the syrup pan.

[BnSmaple]

I flood the flue pan and due to the thermal mass of the arch there's a lot of evap overnight after the fire is out. Next time the rig is fired up it never misses a beat. I'm sure it makes a difference in the way your arch is insulated as well, mine is filled with sand.

[BnSmaple]

As far as the float box is concerned I take the float out every night then when the rig is fired up if the float box is still froze I scoop over hot sap doesn't take long and your in buissness

[BreezyHill]

I take some hot coals from my outside wood burner in a metal bucket and set them in the fire box a few hours before I will boil and the rig is all thawed out when it is time to fire it up. To fire it up I repeat the bucket of coals and add wood.