Help adding stack to barrel evaporator

[jrm]

Thanks for all the help in my newbie questions regarding building a barrel evaporator. I'm getting close... legs on; door on; pan holes cut. I now need to get the stack up so I can get a test boil done and be ready to evaporate.

Based on my pan cuts, I will run the stack from the barrel end, not the top, so I can't use the stack collar that came with the wood stove kit. I have stove pipe, connectors, and a 90 degree bend. I am trying to figure out how to connect the pipe to the barrel. I can find a 6" starting collar in galvanized, but not in stove pipe. I could use a 6" dual-crimped connector piece and cut it down to make a starter collar.

Suggestions and help, please?

Also, how, do you support your stacks?

9136

Thanks,
Janet

2014: first timer. 3 taps; 5 gal sap so far.

[eustis22]

I took my 90-degree bend, cut tabs in the end, stuck it in the hole, bent the tabs back to hold it in (hole was a little jagged) and had a friend weld that in.

Before I had my roof on, I guy wired the stack to trees to keep it straight.

[waterfowlah]

I used the pipe collar on mine, But I built up a box to hold two pans side ways. I would think if cut in a elbow tight to the drum you will be fine, someone just posted that they used conduit flat on one end and screwed to the pipe to help support it. (should work) good luck. I had about 6' of stack on mine when it was outside, and a blower under fire made a big difference for mine. Good Luck.

[The dairy farmer]

worst case on holding the pipe up is u run some chain from pipe to supports on the ground and galvanized starting will work fine that what we have it just wont look pretty once it burns all the finish off

[Sam Caruth]

This is what I did with mine... I went to Lowes, or Menards and bought a 6 inch starting collar. It is just a collar with tabs. You find it with the duct work. Its galvanized, but you can get it for 2 or 3 bucks. Cut a 6 inch hole in your barrel. Bent out the tabs, and simply attach every other tab with a self tapping screw. Get a 90 degree elbow, attach it, then add however much stack you want. I thought it would be super hard too, but once I realized what I was doing, it was super simple. If you need more advice, or pictures, just PM me.

[Quagmire33]

9139 I did pretty much the same as Sam. Only I cut tabs into my elbow, stuck it in the hole, folded the tabs over and used self tapping screws to secure it. I attached a picture, doesn't show much but that little barrel has made a lot of syrup for what it is. Good luck.

[birdmancf]

Janet,
The barrel is looking great. Hope you get enough sap by the weekend to boil.

One suggestion that will make things easier and give you piece of mind when things get hairy is a pair of handles, the aluminum, or screen door type, on your syrup pan. Pulling the pan out by the edges/corners with gloves on, especially with a tight fit in the evaporator is nerve racking and a bit dangerous (ie sticky boiling stuff). You can easily pop rivet them on and gain a lot of control.
Again, good luck and have fun.
Chris

[jrm]

Chris,

Thanks for that suggestion. When I first started thinking about sugaring, I was inclined to use a great lasagna pan that I have, that I rarely use because of its size. The benefits are the two side handles -- I decided I didn't want to ruin it for indoor cooking. I like the idea of adding handles, as I wondered about moving pans of boiling syrup.

Thanks to all for the suggestions about tabs for the starting collar.

I have cut tabs into the elbow, cut the hole for the stack, have two stack pieces together, 4' of height, and am trying to decided if I need to go another 2' higher. I decided 15 degrees was not the weather I wanted to be working in to put it together. Still playing with ideas for stack support. Tomorrow is another day. Maybe I'll get that test boil in yet by Saturday.

Janet

[bigjohnsons]

Chris, What I did last year to support my flu on my temporary block arch was I picked up (3) 8' sheet metal slips and screwed the top into my flu and just spread out the legs. It looked like a temporary service on a house under construction.
My flu was 10' tall, (2) 5' lenghts of 7" pipe and it didn't move or blow over and it was there for at least 2 months.

[jrm]

Forgive me, but may I ask what a sheet metal slip is? I have a couple 6' angle brackets that I thought I might be able to use in the manner you suggested. Probably easier for me to use your suggestion than trying to guy-wire it to something.

Janet


Chris, What I did last year to support my flu on my temporary block arch was I picked up (3) 8' sheet metal slips and screwed the top into my flu and just spread out the legs. It looked like a temporary service on a house under construction.
My flu was 10' tall, (2) 5' lenghts of 7" pipe and it didn't move or blow over and it was there for at least 2 months.

[ForFun]

Last year i had a block arch with stove pipe extending up. I believe it was around 6'. I simply used 3 - 10' pieces of 1/2" emt conduit. I hammered one end of each of the conduits flat and then bent them back at a 45 deg angle. Then i tek screwed a conduit on three sides of the stove pipe...kind of like a tripod stand. I made sure it leaned slightly back so it would never fall forward. Simple and cheap. I will try to attach a pic....(9185