Barrel blower

[waterfowlah]

I bought a 3" bilge blower and then a 3x2 rubber boot from lowes. went from the 3" blower to 2" PVC then slid it over 2" iron pipe that I have running into the bottom of My barrel. hook it up to a 12volt battery and off I go. works great and fairly cheap.:)

[Ausable]

Hey! Does it help Your combustion a lot more than just natural draft? I like the 12V Battery idea.

[waterfowlah]

Yes it does, My shack is out in the woods (no power) so 12volt lights and blower is important. I have the pipe running under My grate with 1" slits cut into it.

[eustis22]

do you have a pic of your connections between blower and pipe?

[waterfowlah]

Sorry it took so long. Had a good weekend. Two gallons of syrup. (well good for us)9231923292339234

[eustis22]

is that duct tape?

[SmellsLikeSyrupNH]

What is the actual name of that blower...i cant seem to find it on their website?

[waterfowlah]

No, electrical tape, I know, I know, I use what I have in My pocket:lol: I am the kind of guy that tries stuff, and if it works I make it right. Funny thing is the tape held up fine. I did lengthen the pipe and get the blower outside.

[waterfowlah]

What is the actual name of that blower...i cant seem to find it on their website?

I will look, bought it at Dover marine.

[waterfowlah]

9264
What is the actual name of that blower...i cant seem to find it on their website?

Here you go. I run the 3" but the 4" I think is 240CFM

[SmellsLikeSyrupNH]

9264

Here you go. I run the 3" but the 4" I think is 240CFM

thanks! I found a squirrel cage blower last night on ebay, gonna give it a try.

[eustis22]

"electrical tape"

heh...sok by ME.

regrettably I centered my pipe in the front and consequently hot coals tend to drop onto it during firing, thus vaporizing my "fire resistant" foam sealant. I plan to replace it with Rutland woodstove gasket cement this weekend. My firebox gets HOT with the blowers (grates got bent under the heat and it takes 2 hours for the boil to stop after I stop boiling). I'm not that happy with my PAN boiling, though as I cannot seem to get to a good roil. I suspect I need to raise the level of the arch underneath the back of the pan but that re-engineering will have to wait. In the meantime, I look for some cast off cast iron stove doors to replace the sheet metal I currently have

[waterfowlah]

"electrical tape"

heh...sok by ME.

regrettably I centered my pipe in the front and consequently hot coals tend to drop onto it during firing, thus vaporizing my "fire resistant" foam sealant. I plan to replace it with Rutland woodstove gasket cement this weekend. My firebox gets HOT with the blowers (grates got bent under the heat and it takes 2 hours for the boil to stop after I stop boiling). I'm not that happy with my PAN boiling, though as I cannot seem to get to a good roil. I suspect I need to raise the level of the arch underneath the back of the pan but that re-engineering will have to wait. In the meantime, I look for some cast off cast iron stove doors to replace the sheet metal I currently have

Last year I had angle iron for a grate, It ended up so messed up by the heat I tossed it out, This year I took some 1" black pipe and made the grate. So far its holding up fine.

[eustis22]

heh..for two years I used a tire rim as grate, figuring the holes would provide a decent airflow AND raise the flame towards my sunken hotel pans. For this year I picked up a couple of cast iron grates from Tractor Supply.....I thought them being made of 1/2" thick iron would forestall warping. I thought wrong.