View Full Version : What's the best way to consistently draw syrup?
treehugger
02-24-2014, 07:49 PM
I just saw another thread about a test boil and did not want to hijack that thread so here's my question. I have a wood fired 2x8 raised flue. Front pan is a 2x3 with 3 channels. I did a first run boil today with only 175 gal of 1.5% sap. I boiled hard for about 3 hours then kind of took it easy, not know the evaporator too well yet. I would have thought that after 3 hours of boiling to have been able to draw off syrup. Maybe the sap was too low on sugar or not enough total volume to draw off for my sized evap. What has been a "proven winner" way of being able to draw syrup from the evaporator? I had a 2x6 before this and had a similar problem so I am thinking it's the way I am running the evaporator. So I am open to adopt new ideas.
How I run the evaporator:
-keep flue pan about 1.5" deep
-keep syrup pan 1.5" deep ( syrup pan boiling hard through out)
-firing about every 10 min (have an airtight front), 3-4" dry hardwood.
-preheated sap
Who has some suggestions? Thanks.
sugarman3
02-24-2014, 08:15 PM
2HRS and you should have gotten it least a little syrup
1-good depth
2-how often you are firing is your main problem,fire every 3-4 minutes,one side at a time,try to maintain a stack temp of 850-900 degrees,firing every 10 min allows for the temp to drop in firebox,thus boiling will slow down and the floats will allow more sap in when boil slows.You will not go through more wood as you would think, because you will be putting in a few sticks[3-5] every few min compared to putt'in [10-12] sticks every 10 min.You want as many btu's as possiable at a consistence rate.AUTO-DRAW OFF WORK GREAT ALSO.TRY THIS ,T SHOULD HELP
treehugger
02-24-2014, 08:20 PM
2HRS and you should have gotten it least a little syrup
1-good depth
2-how often you are firing is your main problem,fire every 3-4 minutes,one side at a time,try to maintain a stack temp of 850-900 degrees,firing every 10 min allows for the temp to drop in firebox,thus boiling will slow down and the floats will allow more sap in when boil slows.You will not go through more wood as you would think, because you will be putting in a few sticks[3-5] every few min compared to putt'in [10-12] sticks every 10 min.You want as many btu's as possiable at a consistence rate.AUTO-DRAW OFF WORK GREAT ALSO.TRY THIS ,T SHOULD HELP
Thats pretty good. I noticed that the floats all of a sudden would let alot of sap in (like you said) and the sap level in the flue pan would rise and boiling slowed. Ill give it a try next time. Thanks.
asknupp
02-24-2014, 08:34 PM
Treehugger,
I think maybe you saw the thread I started. Out of curiosity did you end up finishing off the syrup and if so how much did you end up with? To be honest I don't think I had enough sap to sweeten the pan and draw off any syrup without dropping below a depth I wasn't comfortable with yet. Although my thermometer was saying to draw. Next boil I hope to have more sap to work with
Kngowods
02-24-2014, 08:35 PM
We have a 2x8 with a preheater also we are not very experienced with it but with a airtight front we fire every 4min I forget how many gal we went thru to get syrup 200-350 I think "haven't boiled yet this year" but I think there was always about 4gal of syrup in the evaporator before u get a draw. Our float boxes have a constant stream of sap going threw.
treehugger
02-24-2014, 08:41 PM
Treehugger,
I think maybe you saw the thread I started. Out of curiosity did you end up finishing off the syrup and if so how much did you end up with? To be honest I don't think I had enough sap to sweeten the pan and draw off any syrup without dropping below a depth I wasn't comfortable with yet. Although my thermometer was saying to draw. Next boil I hope to have more sap to work with
I still have to finish it. Had to work tonight probably will be around 2-3 gallons. I wasted a lot of sweet because i drained it today due to the freeze we will be in for the next 1-2 weeks.
treehugger
02-24-2014, 08:44 PM
We have a 2x8 with a preheater also we are not very experienced with it but with a airtight front we fire every 4min I forget how many gal we went thru to get syrup 200-350 I think "haven't boiled yet this year" but I think there was always about 4gal of syrup in the evaporator before u get a draw. Our float boxes have a constant stream of sap going threw.
That is very helpful info. I started with 175 of low sugar sap (first run). Maybe due to the bigger evaporator there is some getting used to required. Just thought i should be able to draw finished syrup. Thanks for the reply.
Russell Lampron
02-24-2014, 08:54 PM
You didn't have enough sap to completely sweeten the pans. I usually need 250 to 300 gallons to get my 2x6 sweetened and draw off a little syrup.
I boiled 100 gallons do just shy 2percent sap on my 2x6 last night. Was my first boil of the year. I drew off about a quart of syrup in the end. It took all of the 100 gallons before I got to that point though! Different size evap are just different. I didn't think that I would have had a draw but I did. Usually the first draw is the biggest in my experience then from there on out more consistent but smaller draws. I do like sugarman3 says, fire about every 4 minutes or so alternating doors. Keep the wood as close to the doors as possible and only 4 or so sticks at a time. I have a blower for mine which makes a huge difference
treehugger
02-24-2014, 09:24 PM
I boiled 100 gallons do just shy 2percent sap on my 2x6 last night. Was my first boil of the year. I drew off about a quart of syrup in the end. It took all of the 100 gallons before I got to that point though! Different size evap are just different. I didn't think that I would have had a draw but I did. Usually the first draw is the biggest in my experience then from there on out more consistent but smaller draws. I do like sugarman3 says, fire about every 4 minutes or so alternating doors. Keep the wood as close to the doors as possible and only 4 or so sticks at a time. I have a blower for mine which makes a huge difference
I will definitely give it a try. Thanks.
Kngowods
02-24-2014, 09:43 PM
Believe me it will be the longest 300 gal of the season waiting for that first draw!!!! Wen I fire I alternate sides add wood to the right side then left. We also put our blower on a light switch right next to the evaporator door so we be fast to shut the door
nymapleguy607
02-25-2014, 07:37 AM
Rule of thumb for my 2x6 is 250 gallons to sweeten the pans, the number depends on the suger content. Low sugar will make it harder to get consistent draws, I have boiled sap that was at 2% and I would draw off evey time I fired. Then other times when it is low it take around 30mins between draws. Next thing would be to keep your fire as consistant as possible. With a wood fired arch everytime you fire the temp fluctuates and the flue pan takes a big slug of sap, this will cause inconsistant draws. If you can fire more often, but only add a couple of sticks of wood, this will keep the fire from cooling so much and help prevent the big slugs of sap. If you aren't using a blower I would consider adding one. I can honestly say I would not want to boil without one after having one. Good luck
treehugger
02-25-2014, 07:41 AM
Rule of thumb for my 2x6 is 250 gallons to sweeten the pans, the number depends on the suger content. Low sugar will make it harder to get consistent draws, I have boiled sap that was at 2% and I would draw off evey time I fired. Then other times when it is low it take around 30mins between draws. Next thing would be to keep your fire as consistant as possible. With a wood fired arch everytime you fire the temp fluctuates and the flue pan takes a big slug of sap, this will cause inconsistant draws. If you can fire more often, but only add a couple of sticks of wood, this will keep the fire from cooling so much and help prevent the big slugs of sap. If you aren't using a blower I would consider adding one. I can honestly say I would not want to boil without one after having one. Good luck
I have a forced draft system. I never have had a fire so hot in fact. To me it is counter intuitive that as the fire cools more sap enters the flue pan. To me it seems it should be the opposite.
I have a forced draft system. I never have had a fire so hot in fact. To me it is counter intuitive that as the fire cools more sap enters the flue pan. To me it seems it should be the opposite.
The boiling action keeps the float higher than when you open door and let cool air under.
BreezyHill
02-25-2014, 08:52 AM
2x6 we don't have the RO on yet with the forecast as it is.
boiled 275 made about 2 gallons
flue at 3/4"
finish at 3/4"
fire about every 5 depending on wood size, all is dry and forced draft with a double fan setup.
Day one boiled faster but only a quart from 150 gallons and rest on next 125 gallons.
Steady draw approach this season and it seems to work well. More consistent firing than letting fire slow when batch pulling at deeper depths.
Find that shorter depths takes less time to get up to temp and boils faster...only draw back is the flue has boiled over into the hood drains twice now. So I need to think about running a little deeper when unless I can figure a better solution.
Did batch drawing since the early 70's. Don't see us going back to batch drawing; except middle son likes the large pulls to press and pack off for storage.
It takes my 2x8 raised flue about 300-350 gal of 2% to draw off, I also have to tease it to the front when first getting going because you will tend to have a higher concentrate in you flue pan than the syrup pans. The first draw is usually a big one then things even out and the draws become consistent and almost feel timed..I run my pans a little deep because I am easily distracted.
treehugger
02-25-2014, 10:33 AM
It takes my 2x8 raised flue about 300-350 gal of 2% to draw off, I also have to tease it to the front when first getting going because you will tend to have a higher concentrate in you flue pan than the syrup pans. The first draw is usually a big one then things even out and the draws become consistent and almost feel timed..I run my pans a little deep because I am easily distracted.
Wow. I guess i better add some taps.
Cabin
02-25-2014, 11:27 AM
If the advise is to load the fire every 3-5 minutes what is the reasoning for an air tight door on the fire box?? I know I will be making changes to my masonary arch this summer anyway and just wondered.
BreezyHill
02-25-2014, 12:16 PM
Air tight door is on a forced draft system. That way no smoke or fire comes out the gap in the doors. Some where there is the pic of the guy that put a blower on his barn door evaporator and the flame is coming out the door. friend sent it to me with the caption of " is this how you heat your sugar house?" bet the guy didn't need a shave or a hair cut after loading the fire the second time. LOL
Sugarmaker
02-25-2014, 07:45 PM
Our first boil this year we had 500 gallons of 2.5% sap. Took 3 hours for the first draw. Then made 5 gallons of syrup before shut down. Each rig is a little different and its good your proceeding slowly learning about your new evaporator. Auto draw off is a very nice addition to the rig too!
Regard,
Chris
treehugger
02-25-2014, 07:59 PM
Our first boil this year we had 500 gallons of 2.5% sap. Took 3 hours for the first draw. Then made 5 gallons of syrup before shut down. Each rig is a little different and its good your proceeding slowly learning about your new evaporator. Auto draw off is a very nice addition to the rig too!
Regard,
Chris
I probably dont want to know but how much are they?
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