flue pan - syrup pan

[the old guy]

Royalmaple suggested I put these pictures on this site to see if anyone has an idea how this line is held in place? D&G says these are old fittings and have now been replaced on the newer models with stainless threaded lines. But I know they have been used in the past. I sure would hate to be about half way through batch and they come loose. I did make a c-clamp that seems to work when there is no liquid in the pans, but c-clamps can be bumped too. Maybe that I am too new to this evaporator.
What do you think!!!!

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/oxleyleo/

the old guy

[maplehound]

I believe ther is supossed to be a spring that goes from the elbow flange to the hook on the evaporator. At least that is how a simular fitting worked on an old Leader I used to have
Ron

[HanginAround]

Yes, there should be a spring. I think my uncle's smaller evap has a similar setup, but I can't remember where the spring hooks to. There is one spring that goes around the middle of the rubber hose, with one spring hooked on the left pan, and the other end on the right pan. I'll look and try to take a pic next time I'm out, but could be a week or more.

[brookledge]

On the old style leader I had it use a fitting like that for the supply lineto the float and it was held in place by a spring but for the most part it held in place real well even if the spring was off. But in your case with that type of fitting on the draw off I'd be real sure it's not coming off. Like you have with the clamp. Can you shorten the threaded rod so that you don't have as much sticking out that you can catch it on? The one thing nice about the tapered fitting is that it can be put together at any angle.
Keith

[HanginAround]

The draw off valve should have a tab on it that rotates in under the tab on the pocket. If you don't have one, use a small "L" bracket and fasten it to your valve with a hose clamp. In all cases the primary means of the fittings staying together is friction because of the tapered fit, the springs or tabs are just for safety.

[the old guy]

PETE

I THINK YOU'VE GOT IT! THERE IS NO SPRING BUT I CAN PICK ONE UP AT HOME DEPOT. I HAVE ABOUT GOT IT ALL SET UP. WE ARE GOING TO TRY A TEST BOIL THIS WEEK. I HAVE BEEN TO CHRISTMAS PARTIES AND RUNNING TOO MUCH THIS PAST WEEK. I NEED SOME SAP TO BOIL. A FRIEND OF MINE SAID HE WAS TRIMMING SOME OF HIS YARD TREES (SUGAR MAPLES) AND THE SAP WAS REALLY RUNNING. THEY TELL ME THAT SAP RUNS IN DECEMBER BUT NOT FOR LONG I GUESS. I THINK I'LL WAIT. THANKS FOR THE INFO!

THE OLD GUY

[treefinder]

i had a old grimm with that type of connectors there is no spring. they tappered i would lightly tap mine on with a hammer. mine always fit tight and if they do leak when you start to boil tap on them until they stop . i used my evap with those for three years that way. mine never came off ! how many times have you caught your shirt on that C-clamp when you walk by thats got to be a pain in the #!&...

[802maple]

That looks like my pans that were made by Waterloo and there was a spring. I can see that these pans were made by D&G but I think they are just replacement pans for a Waterloo as I have sold alot of them. On the orignal pan if I am right there was a ear with a hole drilled to hook the spring to each pan. I would advise having something to hold it on. As someone said it will not leak if there isn't anything holding it on ,but it wouldn't take much to knock it off in the first part of boiling when you have cleaned or changed your pans from a voice of experience believe me. Also a good way to stop it from leaking if it does is just wrap one or two wraps of teflon tape around it as that has helped me