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whiteout
12-02-2006, 10:31 AM
I'm looking to try my hand at building 2 X 6 arch. Last spring I bought a set of used leader 2X6 WSE pans. I going to model it after leaders new style arch with straight sides. I have been reading past posts trying to get idea's. I would like to build it with insulated front and sides, also forced draft.
I have acess to some scrap steel, 2 pieces of 1/8 plate approx. 40" x13' that I'm going to cut up for the sheet metal. I am thinking of buying 2" angle 1/4 thick for the frame. I am thinking of useing fire brick for thefire box only and useing ceramic blanket insulation on the bottom and sides around the flue pan?? Does anyone know how thick it would need to be? The pins that hold the ceramic to the sides-what is the spaceing on them.
Any sugestions would be much appreciated

ibby458
12-03-2006, 07:10 AM
No reason in the world you can't build your own arch to fit your pans. That 1/8" is plenty heavey enough. I'd paint it with HI temp paint, and if you put the ceramic under the bricks in the front, It should hold up to the heat real well.

I'd find a Leader arch that those pans will fit, and copy it as exactly as possible. They spend a lot of time and money on design & research - Might's well get the benefit of it. I would reccomend putting a 10" stack on it, even with forced draft. The rig I used last year was based on a 2x6, and I enlarged the stack from 7 to 8", but it was still too small. When I cranked the blower enough to get the flue pan hopping, it was blowing sparks & ash out of the door cracks, rust holes in the arch and everywhere else it could.

Mind you - that arch had been stretched 3' to add another pan, but I still think it woyuld have worked better with a 10" stack.

I would also reccommend laying out the coin for real Leader grates. I've used a fair amount of home made grates, and the boughten ones are better.

I'm not too far away from you. If you want to check out my 2.5x8, and discuss options, just shoot me a PM.

Irv

whiteout
12-03-2006, 06:08 PM
Thanks Irv , sounds like good advice. I was thinking 8" stack but you are probably right - bigger is better. I also was trying to figuire out some thing for grates. Buying factory ones would be a lot simpler.
I don't know anyone with the new style leader 2' wide arch to look at. I have been going by pitures in there cataloge and pitures on the web. I would like to know the distance from the bottom of the syrup pan to the grates and then the grates to floor. If anybody has a tape measure handy?
Terry

Valley View Sugarhouse
12-03-2006, 06:25 PM
I know a few people that make grates out of well casing, if you know a well driller they always have scraps laying around they will probabley give you.. Cut them with a torch in like 4" wide strips with a torch and poke a bunch of holes in them with a torch. Put them in crown side up and you have grates for no real money and 1/2 hour of torch time..

hookhill
12-04-2006, 05:18 PM
If you have a welder, torch, metal chop saw it makes the job easier. Did one myself a few years ago and it has held up so far. Made the grates out of 1/4 angle iron. They seem to be holding up. Cost a few hundred for material. I used pretty heavy sheet metal which was a pain to cut but is real strong. Unfortunately I used some 1/8 angle iron for cross members that will have to be replace. No big deal though. Try and measure one made for your pans. Bascoms might have some used doors and other cast iron parts. Sheet metal is a pain to cut without a shear. Farming that out might help.There is always people out there that will tell you to buy the professional stuff. My view is that if you dont try it yourself you dont learn anything. Put together a bandsawmill last winter and that is dam handy tool to have. Best.

Jim

Fred Henderson
12-04-2006, 05:34 PM
I got a 2 x6'6" that I built if you want to come and look at it. Just send me a PM. I will thru Hopkinton today on my way to Saranac Lake.