bricking my 2x8 arch

[1050jimbob]

I have a 2x8 arch (small bros design) and am trying to figure out how to install the firebricks. my arch came with wool insulation and the arch is lined with stainless.I assume that you install the grates (W down) and pick a side to start. The bricks are placed on the flat against the insulation (that has been cemented to the stainless. The bricks are cut stacked and lightly cemented to fit to the height of the cross member in the fire chamber. This arch has a baffle with a 2 inch gap on each side to allow air to pass under the flue pan. I assume you brick this section last and leave the opening on each side as designed. CDL says not and their arch is bricked tight with no gap for air to pass.

Where it gets fuzzy for me is what happens under the flue pan itself. Do you brick the whole area including the sides all around, the bottom, all the way back to the stack. Some say insulation on the bottom is enough, others say not. I really need some advice here. This arch and pan set are built along the design of the small bros lightning.

Thanks in advance
jim from Ontario canada

[Jmsmithy]

Hey Jm

I'm not sure on your particular evaporator but on my 2x6 Leader Patriot my supplier explained that the fire brick should "cover all the stainless". She also said I MAY have to slightly cut some at the top section under the back pan to line up correctly and get everything appropriately covered. I hope this helps a bit.

I'm picking it up next weekend and will hopefully have it bricked up and done by Sunday afternoon or so...I'll let u know how it goes :o

[bcr767]

Hi, I bricked my 2x8 last year, and I used 1" fire board to cover my entire arch, and then I used half size fire bricks. I cut and sized all my bricks, and then a used a light layer of refractory cement to cement them to the fire board, and bond them to each other. Make sure once you are done you either use a heater or light a small fire to cure the refractory cement. I believe that that fire board made a huge difference. The book says I should only get 40 Gph evaporation, but I am getting between 60 to 70 Gph. Some people use sand in the flue area, but the sand holds the heat a long time, and it doesn't cool down as fast for shut downs, and the bricks are easier to clean any ash up off of.

[lpakiz]

I'm not saying that this is the only way, but on mine, I laid several courses of thick bricks flat wise, staggering the joints. Then a couple more courses of thick bricks on edge, also staggering joints. Then finished with 2 courses of thin bricks on edge, and filled the remaining gap with refractory cement. So the firebox is tapered from narrower at the bottom to maximum width under the pan.
I bolted and mortared thin bricks into the door frame, making sure they were " backed up" by the bricks along the sides. This is where most of the abuse occurs. Remember, there should be no steel exposed to flames anywhere in the rig. The heat will destroy bare metal. Metal must be protected by blanket, arch board, brick or refractory. Pan is protected by sap AT ALL TIMES!