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View Full Version : Cheaper to make steam hood or just buy one?



bowtie
02-10-2014, 07:24 PM
I need steam hood for my evap , I do not want it tight fitting but would like to hang it about 18" above pan. I have a 2x4 evap and was thinking a 2 x 5 hood would be better to gather steam. Also if I keep it above the pans, not tight is it worth it to make a preheater for it or would this be more work and money than results? Looking at aluminum prices it looks like it would cost almost as much for the sheets as it would be to just order one from bascoms. I am really just looking to vent the steam in an efficient manner.

bmbmkr
02-10-2014, 07:53 PM
I am making my hood, 2x4 to go tight over 4 of my 5 steam pans on my homemade 20"x60" double barrel arch. I already had most of the material on hand. I used aluminum sheet. I bought some aluminum angle for the frame and screwed and riveted the skin on. I bought 3/4"aluminum trim edge to make a gutter for the inside. I've read that aluminum hoods don't get as much condensation as stainless because they skin heats up faster. We'll see in a few weeks. I have my arch almost done. Two 55 gal drums welded end to end, barrel stove door and flue. I built a steel angle frame to hold 5 steam pans and will have a half pan on the side for a float box. I am using 3/4 copper siphons to get the sap from pan to pan. My evap looks a lot like deckers007 setup just one pan shorter. I've really learned alot from this site and appreciate everyone sharing so much info. I'm living in NC, and going to Ohio to tap in two weeks. Can't wait- and my wife and friends will be glad not to hear about maple for a few weeks til i get back!

cur dog
02-10-2014, 07:56 PM
I've got a 30" x 48" light weight alluminum hood I bought to hang over my old hobby evaporator. I never got around to using it, and since bought a much bigger evaporator. I keep meaning to put it in the classifieds, but keep forgetting. Give me $200 and your hunt will be over.

maple flats
02-11-2014, 05:37 AM
A preheater will only be very marginal in a hood suspended that high, but every little bit helps. You might do better drawing some heat off the stack for a preheater. Search some threads on here, this has been done several ways.
Far cheaper to make one, but generally far nicer to buy. Depends on your budget.

Sugarmaker
02-11-2014, 07:00 AM
I need steam hood for my evap , I do not want it tight fitting but would like to hang it about 18" above pan. I have a 2x4 evap and was thinking a 2 x 5 hood would be better to gather steam. Also if I keep it above the pans, not tight is it worth it to make a preheater for it or would this be more work and money than results? Looking at aluminum prices it looks like it would cost almost as much for the sheets as it would be to just order one from bascoms. I am really just looking to vent the steam in an efficient manner.

I think it depends on how handy you are and if you lie to build things. New hoods are not cheap. Fabrication takes time materials and sometimes tooling. The preheater will not work as well in the suspended hood. They really need a hod down on the pan to keep the steam in the hood while heating the preheater.
Let us know.
Regards,
Chris

bowtie
02-12-2014, 06:48 PM
Cur dog, I tried sending you a private message not sure if it went through, I am interested in the hood as I only plan on using my existing evap this year, so I do not like the thought of buying one for $500 or more. Where are you located in ne pa I would like come take a look at the if possible. I would not mind making one but at this point I really do not have the time to do it.

maple flats
02-12-2014, 07:46 PM
Ready made is nice, but if you have or can borrow or rent an aluminum trim break you can make one in a few hours. I made my old one in 2 hrs, for a 3x8 set of pans. In that time everything was finished except the gutter rail. For that it took me another hour and a half. I used 1x1x1 aluminum channel. I mitered the corners (3 of them) and used aluminum rod to join them using a mapp gas torch. Then on the 4th corner I extended the rail out to the side about 8" or so, and removed the area where the back channel passed the side channel. I also connected that point with the aluminum rod (sort of similar to brazing but using aluminum rod to join 2 pieces of aluminum. To finish I pop riveted the gutter to the bottom of the hood, with the hood resting inside the gutter rail. At that point The hood was done and I just cut the 2 stack holes in the top of the hood and ran aluminum stack up and into the cupola. I even had 2 sliding access doors, one on each side of the evaporator.
While that hood was OK, when I bought a new set of pans, I just couldn't pass up a super deal on a very slightly dented demo hood , made of SS and welded for $800. I have a hard time finding those dents, but they saved me $1100 at the time.