oil flood system on dairy pump

[spirit lake sugar]

I am interested in converting a DeLeValle dairy vacuum pump into a oil flood system. What are possible methods for re-machining?

[BreezyHill]

What model is the pump?

Loads of options...depends on the pump.

[turnpike]

Don't mean to hijack this thread...but I have a new to me delaval 76 pump w/ reclaimer. Pump is actually pretty new, was bought from a maple dealer and used a couple of seasons. I am setting it up now and would be interested in any potential modifications that would increase its performance. What is the difference between this setup and an oil flood system? What are the benefits of the oil flood system?

[BreezyHill]

Can you get a pic of the unit? I don't know how it is set up now but...
Most pumps sold now are setup with an oil cooler on a oil reclaimer. Flood oil is simply taking oil from the reclaimer and dripping it into the inlet of the pump. This will allow the cooler oil to contact the housing of the pump and cool the pump.
An additional benefit is a better seal on the housing to the vane to increase vacuum efficiency.

Since you already have a reclaimer attached I am willing to bet you have a dripper on the inlet and one on each bearing. If so there is not much that can be done unless the unit is building heat. If this is the case I would first increase the oil flow and watch the vac level; secondly the vanes could be changed to metal so that you have less friction area on the housing and with some machinist work you can direct feed oil onto each vane. This is rather time consuming and costly work so I would not recommend it except as a last resort for an even series 70 model.

Also you need to remember the pump needs to breath. So be sure that you have a large line connecting the pump to the releaser, use a check valve. When making bends two 45 elbows with a 6-8" nipple between will transfer vacuum better. Keep the pump as close to the releaser as possible and the water trap as cool as possible. Cooler will make it condensate vapor better and spare the pump a rusty experience.

So send a pic if you can.

Ben

[turnpike]

Thanks for the good info. This unit is setup as you described, with oil coming off the reclaimer going to each bearing and one into the inlet. I will try and get a photo posted. What kind of vacuum level should this pump be capable of running at?

[spirit lake sugar]

Thanks for your response its nice to have info not a lot folks in Minnesota on Vacuum yet and trying to do as much as I can my self I have a machinist who loves our syrup and can do just about anything I was wondering what it is they do when they machine for more oil to brgs also I have a surge alamo vac pump that the rotor spins on the main shaft when it starts to draw vac I know it should spin on the shaft but I don't know how they fix the shaft to the rotor also can we order new metal vanes for a masport pump and about how much they cost again thanks for any info

[BreezyHill]

The vac on the unit will really depend on how it was maintained. Use the wrong oil and it will have a short life. Use good quality oil...quality does not mean high priced, all the time; and the pump will last a long time. I use a pump that was made at least 10 years before I was born. I have another that is pushing 70 years old and is still going strong.
I have another I rebuilt that was used for about 7 years in a dairy. It was since 1976 till fall of 2013. The water trap still had about a quart of water in it. The pump was set up like cement. The bearings were a solid rusted mess and disintegrated on pulling off. The housing cleaned up quick and honeyed out very well. The vanes soaked for a two months and then were drove out of the rotor. The rotor was fine. Polished the vanes and the pump, Delaval 75, after a 2 hr breakin was sucking 26" Changed to running oil and she pulls 28". I am sure she will be a great pump for years to come.

The spinning rotor on a shaft is an easy fix; provided the shaft is not worn or the rotor is not out of shape. If this has happened it will eat the end plates or housing when it slide around. Some units have a set screw that is in place, others have a key way while some are a pressed fit. The press fit is easiest...a set screw is added to hold the rotor in place.

Broken keys are not bad if you can get the unit a part and a bad set screw will likely be a hard fix. Often the shaft is damaged and will need repair or replacement. Depending on the damage. Welding a chewed shaft seldom works without a good lath and operator.

On the other hand a missing set screw could be the case. Just how much damage did the screw cause when it came out. It could just fall out the exhaust port or it could have rattled around for a while first.

Glad to help. It is a real shame to see a pump covered in dust that can suck the paint off a barn.

[BAP]

If your rotor has spun on the shaft, you should consider having a new shaft made that is press fit. Even if you put a set screw in the old one, it might not hold if the shaft and rotor have worn any. Especially where you have a machinist friend to do the work. I have fixed DeLaval pumps that the shaft has broke free by having a new one made for press fit by having the outside of the shaft knurled. Works great, just use a press to push it in. Not all vacuum pump oils will hold up to the high heat created by high vacuum. So make sure you find one that will.

[spirit lake sugar]

Picture of vacuum pump does anyone know what the pump RPM should be?


Bruce