2 by 6 arch build

[C&C maple sugar bush]

Hello. I have just started my arch build for my 2 by 6 smokey lake pan. I made te arch 7 feet long to acomidate a 10 inch chimney, an it stands 30 inches tall to the rail. I used 2.5 by 2.5 inch 3/6 angle for the frame, and I'm useing 1/4 plate for the front, I plan on insulating the door by by putting ceramic blanket between 2 sheets of metal. Then I hope to make the door air tight with gasket rope. Am I will have forced air coming on from the back. I plan on insulating it all with ceramic blanket then putting fire brick over that. Then for the slant towards the chimney should I go 4 inches below the flues in front then 1 inch below the flues in back??? Not sure. Then I'm a little stuck on the hood, I want to make a 2 by 4 hood with a 2 by 2 half good for the front, but can I make it out of galvanized with out contaminating the syrup????? I can make it out of aluminum but it would be cheaper and Easyer to use galvanized. Them for the preheated how many feet of pipe would you put in the hood, and do I need a air valve or anything so I don't get steam lock?? Any help or advise will be nice
Thanks cole.

[madmapler]

It sounds like you're doing a great job. What kind of flue pan do you have, dropped or raised? If you think the water will drip back into the pan then I'd go with the aluminum. It does'nt sound like you're sparing the expense on the rest of it. I dont know what the formula is regarding preheater and pan size but there must be one. Maybe someone else will know.

[C&C maple sugar bush]

It has a 2 by 4 drop flue pan

[madmapler]

I dont really know what to say about a set up like that. The fire box obviously must go under the flue pan a bit. The rule of thumb for a longer flue pan is to keep the space under the flues around an inch or so. Maybe look at an online catalog or check with the company who sold you the pans. There are plenty of guys on here who have set ups like yours. They'll see your post eventually.

[Big_Eddy]

Size your fire box depth (door to back wall) to match the flat portion of your pan. Step up vertical about 10-12" and then ramp back at ~30-45 degrees until 1-2" below the flues. The last 2'-3' are flat at 1-2" below your flues. Make sure you leave space for a grate and ash collection / removal

Make your door opening such that the bottom edge of the flues is HIGHER than the top edge of the door opening. That way it is difficult to toss wood into the flues and damage them.

IMO - Galvanized has no place in syrup production.

For the pre-heater - 6-8 parallel runs of 3/4" copper with a header at each end. Feed in one end, out the other. Exit slightly higher. Tee in a vent at the outlet with a 1/4" copper or plastic tube to higher than your head tank. No valve needed - just a T and a small line. The purpose is to allow any steam or air that might build up in the system to flow to the outlet and then up the vent tube to the atmosphere. Prevents vapour locking of the pre-heater.

[C&C maple sugar bush]

I got my cermaic blanket and rope gasket to make the door insulated and air tight, am I was thinking of having the slope start at 4inches in the front of the flue pan and then 1 inch below the flue pan in the back. Then do I put the t in the middle of the pre heater or at the end??

[lpakiz]

C & C,
Make sure the outside to outside width of your rails is NO MORE than 25 3/4", no matter what you use for angle iron.
If it's any wider, you will run into problems connecting the flue pan outlet and float box inlet. The flange fittings are only 1 1/8 long, and they are at the very bottom of the pan. Hence, if your rails are too wide, you won't have room to get the clamps on. I had to grind clearance on mine, at 26 1/8.

[Flat Lander Sugaring]

http://mapletrader.com/maplegallery/arch-build/p1158-imag0322.html


http://s40.photobucket.com/user/poultneyfiredog18/library/New%20Arch%20Build

[C&C maple sugar bush]

Flat lander
I really like the door set up you made, does it seem like it is air tight?