dropped flue drain and ramp

[bannonbush]

I bought a Phanuef 2x4 combo pan dropped flue in rear with flat finish section in front. it has flue drain on the bottom of drop flues. about 1" square tig welded across the flues for clean out. great idea but here is my question. I am making my own evaporator should this drain tube be below the ramp so cut the ramp out for it fit...or do I make the ramp fit tight to drain tube and run the drain out the side of evaporator? if I brick the entire ramp except where the drain tube is the 1" brick wil allow the tube to sit down in. I can try and upload pictures if what im explaining dosnt make sense to anyone LOL...thanks in advance for help

[eagle lake sugar]

On my drop flue, I bricked the ramp so it's maybe 1" below the flue, forcing the flame through the flues. The drain exits through the side of the evaporator and the rear section is filled with vermiculite.

[Sugarmaker]

You probably will get many suggestions. my 2 cents. The basics first:
1. the drain on most rigs exits the side of the arch through a hole in the side of the arch. A threaded nipple is inserted into the drain after the rear pan is in place.
2. No the ramp should not be cut out for this cross drain. The drain should be up inside the bottom of your arch.
3. you dont really have to brick the bottom of the arch under the rear pan. most have sand or as mentioned vermiculit in that area to come up to within a 1/2 inch of the bottom of the flues. Since this drain tube hangs down below the flues just lave some room around it for air to flow. Not saying you cant brick under the pans, I have seen some done that way.
4. Have seen posts where some folks turn and come out the bottom of the arch. this is not as common but of course will work too.
Just have to remember to remove the nipple when the pans need to be removed from the arch.
Hope you enjoy those new pans! Hd makes some very good looking equipment.
Some pictures of the arch would help us see what your doing. Are you going to be ready this season? Its almost GO time:)

Regards,
Chris

[bannonbush]

thanks for replys. my original thought was to make ramp tight to flue drain and fill with sand around the tube and run a pipe nipple out the side, sugarmaker you have confirmed this for me thanks.8485

attached is the only picture I have so far. last night was my first night in the shop. hope to finish ramp and plate the sides by weekend. arch blanket and bricks next week. I gotta hurry now its crunch time.. ive had the pan since last april/may hahahah I guess I work better under pressure

[Sugarmaker]

thanks for replys. my original thought was to make ramp tight to flue drain and fill with sand around the tube and run a pipe nipple out the side, sugarmaker you have confirmed this for me thanks.8485

attached is the only picture I have so far. last night was my first night in the shop. hope to finish ramp and plate the sides by weekend. arch blanket and bricks next week. I gotta hurry now its crunch time.. ive had the pan since last april/may hahahah I guess I work better under pressure

OK I understand the under pressure part. You still have a lot of moves to do to be ready. Don't rush to the point you make a giant boo-boo. There is always next year. Building a good arch takes time and thought.
Your frame work looks good.
Done make the bottom of the arch tight to the drain. I would have it at least 2 inches below the drain and then plan to fill that area with sand or splits or vermiculite.
Thanks for taking the time to post the picture. Wait I don't see drop flues what am I missing???
Take a picture of the flues and drain for us, please.

Regards,
Chris
Chris

[bannonbush]

ill get some more pictures.. the drop flues are there lol just cant seem them for the angle iron and camera angle.. if look real close you see the drain plug at rear of pan. what would you estimate for a height for ramp to start? im thinking of bringing the back of fire box up about 6" straight up then starting ramp

[bannonbush]

if I go tight to drain with ramp I will still have 1" space for sand or bricks or what ever to the flues. the gases will travel up between the flues. cant think it will radiate much heat loss out drain

[bannonbush]

here is some more pictures. the level is just held roughly in place as my "projected" ramp? thoughts

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[lpakiz]

I would give yourself an inch at least, under the drain manifold, for the floor of the arch. I would recommend ceramic blanket under the flue pan, 2 layers won't hurt. The drain manifold can nest into the blanket. I came out the side of the arch ( very difficult locating the hole) with the drain nipple, then attached a tee, running up and down. Down has a valve to drain the flue pan. Up is a sight level tube. It percolates pretty hard, making it hard to get an accurate level. If the drain manifold were embedded a bit in the blanket, it wouldn't boil so hard in the sight gauge. If the sight gauge is not going to be used, go out the bottom. Then you can at least swing the drain nipple fore and aft to fine adjust.
I helped set up a maple display in Wausau, WI a few weeks ago. I installed a SS valve onto a SS nipple welded into the display panel. No tape or pipe compound. Just going to get it only lightly hand-tight. It welded itself together, with light hand force only, and as far as I know, it is still together. Here goes--use a brass nipple into the flue drain, with pipe dope or tape. Just a bit past hand tight then STOP! Big controversy on this a month ago, but that is my 2 cents worth on this. Several condemned brass in syrup equipment, but it quieted right down when I asked what their Oberdorfer pump was made of.