Main line stretching

[K.I. Joe]

Do you stretch your mainline and then cut in branch mains or tee in the branch lines and then stretch

[unc23win]

I stretch the mainline first. If you do it the other way your saddle entrance might not end up at the right slope. I just read in a book the other day that they recommended running the lateral line before putting the saddle on. I had never really thought about that order I have done both. I guess it depends on your ability to see how the lateral should run.

[BreezyHill]

Stretch fist. This way the entire length is stretched prior to cuts and saddles. If you stretch after; alignments will change and saddle holes will elongate. This will cause leaks in a vacuum system and possible tubing failure due to over stretching sections, while other sections are under stretched.
Laterals run prior to saddles to get the most slope and best angle of the saddle inlet to the lateral. Pulling a saddle in an incorrect angle will tip the saddle causing a potential leak and causing unneeded stress to the neck of the saddle. The correct rotational position of the saddle is also important to reduce neck stress and reduce leak potential; while conducting the most vacuum to the tap hole.
The use of the hook connectors and the rapid tie helps to eliminate these issues and produce higher vacuum.

Great Question!
Ben

[K.I. Joe]

So how much do you stretch the mainline and how do you do it equally. I was thinking every 100 feet I would strecth the line and secure to wire but how much? Just until it is straight or actually stretch the tubing a couple of feet

[BreezyHill]

Not more than 500' at a time. I use a tension grip on a j hook/ drive ring at the releaser end, then install a grip at 500' or prior to a joint location and figure the 3% distance and use my atv to pull it. On the ends of a mains I will use a length of high tensile and a tightener so I can adjust as needed. If you do a short distance and then attach to a carry line the last few ties will start to cut into the mains and create a weak spot that will split in time. In a year or so I will have a tool that will make life a lot easier doing this task available.

[K.I. Joe]

So you stretch 500 feet 15 feet??????

[PerryFamily]

Tighten until it's tight. Not too tight just taught.
I anchor one end and use a comealong on the other with a piece of wire hose clamped to the pipe. That way you use the same tightening device on both wire and pipe. I pulled 1000` at once with no issues.
Temperature is a factor as well. Again not too tight. If put up warm and stretched too much you chance it contracting when cold and pulling apart.
Don't over think it with numbers and percentages, use common sense and you will be fine.
Good luck and have fun.

[BreezyHill]

The only issue with "tight" is the product is designed for a maximum of 3% stretch. Tight is a relative term and can cause oblongation of the tube that will create major leak issues. To loose and sagging occurs that messes with vac transfer. A sag of only 1/2" on a 1" line can cause major vacuum issues. HIgh tensile fence lines are designed to be stretched at not more than 800 feet due to uneven stretching and damage during extreme cold weather events. Plastic is much more sensitive to pull, so the amount of tension needed to stretch the last 50' of tubing will have the first 200' way past its safe limits. The test is to check a line at below zero temps and check its shape and flexibility. Proper stretch and it will be firm but not brittle. To much and it can shatter from the impact of a falling branch. Proper tension is most important on limited slope mains.

Good Luck!

[king of divide]

As I read, I understand you are actually stretching your "pipe" or "tubing", not sure which term you refer to it as, but anyways, guess for one I am curious as to why? Also from my experience I find it unecessary. Only questioning because in my experience the only pipe ive known to be necessary to "stretch" is CDL rappitubing...?

[Thad Blaisdell]

Just put up the wire and get it tight then put up the plastic, on far end wrap some fence wire around the clamp holding the plug, and attach to tree. I use hooks so I hitch to the hook. Then loose wire tie every 20 feet when you come to the end I use the finger trap things. put it on and clamp it. Then attach one end of a ratcheted strap Light weight is fine, to the hook and one to the Chinese finger and tighten. Get it good and snug, as stated not super tight. Then walk away and come back tomorrow and check tightness, it may need another click or two. Tighten the wire again if needed. there you go.

[K.I. Joe]

thanks guys

[VT_K9]

My father and I are plugging away at running a new main line and some laterals. We hung the wire and tightened with a come-a-long. Then hung the 1" mainline using plastic zip ties to help with alignment and let them sit for awhile. Then we went back and tightened the mainline by anchoring one end with a tensioner secured with a pipe clamp. The other end had the same mechanism, but was hooked to a come-a-long to apply the tension. The pipe was pulled tight to the point where it was minimal effort to have the pipe and wire make contact (sometimes it is hare to have the two pulled tight in the same plane). We have completed a short run using this method and it has been almost one week. We will inspect it prior to completing more to ensure it seems to be working properly. Either way it is better than what we used to do.....put tension on with a rope and then plastic zip tie it to the wire. No major problems were encountered, but maybe the new way will have better results.

Mike

[BreezyHill]

Reason for stretching is to get the tubing as tight as possible to eliminate all sags. A sag half the width of the tubing will severally reduce the vacuum transferal to the tap hole. Most of my mains are set at 2% slope. This makes the tension even more important. I will take a pic and add in a week of a line that a guy didn't stretch and it is raping around the support wire???? Not sure how this has happened. Sags produce surges in the flow that block the top portion of the tubing from an open flow of gas back to the vac pump for evacuation. On our operation we have always been stretching the tubing...even in the old days when it was an orange color and was stiff as heel; but my dad was a Surge Dealer and an Industrial Arts Teacher; so everything had to be designed to the tenth and measured twice- cut ounce was the standard. Our longest mains is 2700' and the stretch saved me 81' of mains on the Wet line and the dry line; which is about $50.

Hope I answered the question completely.

Ben