"new" rig

[325abn]

Here are some shots of my new to me rig. I have a SS hood, full fire brick and I am thinking of also putting ceramic blanket over the fire brick.

Comments?


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/reagantrooper/Evaporator/8-06069.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/reagantrooper/Evaporator/8-06076.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/reagantrooper/Evaporator/8-06070.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/reagantrooper/Evaporator/8-06063.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/reagantrooper/Evaporator/8-06068.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/reagantrooper/Evaporator/8-06073.jpg

[rschoo]

tgat's an interesting rig! I've never heard of a raised flu or oil fired that small.
Keep us posted how it works. Do you know the manufacturer of the arch and pan?

[325abn]

The pan is a Small Brothers "Lightning"

[HanginAround]

I wonder how that duct fan will hold up in the steam?

I think the banket is a great idea, insulates and reflects heat much better than firebrick.

I love the combo flue/syrup pan and wish I could find one for my friend's 2x5. It would be nice to have a seperate float box to regulate level in the syrup section, as relying on your own attention to the manual valve is a good way to ruin your pan. If your level gets up a bit and you turn down the valve and forget about it for a few minutes, you may burn it up. This looks like it will be a pretty good evaporator for ya though!

[325abn]

Do you think I should use the blanket over the brick? The builder said that the sides would get almost red hot, I am thinking the blanket with the brick may help with this.

I bet I could replace the manual valves with a float. :D

[HanginAround]

I don't see any reason why the blanket over the brick isn't a great idea. Alternately, get rid of the brick altogether, and just use (more) blanket. New oil-fired don't have any brick, just blanket. New wood-fired are only brick in the firebox, blanket beyond that.

See the blanket in this pic...

http://www.thepixplace.com/usr/4822/i_HPIM0450.JPG

Click for larger version: http://www.thepixplace.com/img82543.html

[Fred Henderson]

I would not put the brick in. The blanket will do just as good of o job and will not suck up a lot of heat warming them up.

[Fred Henderson]

HangingAround

What are those pipes for under the blanket insulation? :D

[HanginAround]

It is part of the forced air draft system. Most of the air goes under the firebox and up throught the holes in those concrete squares on the floor of the firebox and then on into the doors and out the top of them... but a portion is injected into the combustion gases at the back of the firebox. The theory is that the infusion of more oxygen at that point will burn some things that would not otherwise and go up the stack. Each air channel is controlled by a seperate damper.

If you click for the larger version, you can see the two handles on the far side of the doors:

http://www.ThePixPlace.com/usr/4822/i_HPIM0515.JPG (http://www.ThePixPlace.com/img82846.html)

Here's a pic of the pipes after they are covered in castable refactory cement (to keep them from burning up) :

http://www.ThePixPlace.com/usr/4822/i_6589HPIM0452.JPG (http://www.ThePixPlace.com/img82847.html)

[royalmaple]

Looks like a good start, You may want to get some stove paint and pretty up the arch, but it won't make it boil any faster.

As for the second float, it would certainly be easier to operate and be a little more "bullet proof" for your syrup pan. But I really don't think you'd have enough room without doing some intense surgery to hook up the float using the two connections you have now between the valve.

For ease, you could switch to a ball valve. just makes life easier when you need to save your pan from burning and can't seem to crank the twist valve fast enough.

Should be a nice rig for you and once you get the hang of it, you'll be cranking right along. At least you'll have constant fire with oil, that could be the biggest trick of all to master for us wood guys.

I think you will definately like the raised flues.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Hangin,

What kind of grates are those????? 8O

[HanginAround]

They are 1' x 1' concrete squares.... umm, I think about 1 1/2" thick... each has 9 holes for air flow. They sit on steel angle spaced about 13" apart... seems to me the angle was in pairs with the vertical portions sticking upward so the squares could move an inch or so, but not fall in the holes. Underneath is a big air box the size of the firebox, open to the holes in the door sill at the front and ducted to the blower on the back. I can't tell you if it's normal concrete or refactory, but the steel and the squares are bathed in cold air all the time from underneath, so I think it's just regular.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Be interesting to see how long they last. :?

[HanginAround]

Yes, it will be interesting. Maybe you could pour your own when the time comes. Steel grates will fail in forced air use after awhile too. The concrete should be cheaper.

[Pete S]

Maybe I should have started another thread, but had a question........earlier the pan that was being utilized on this rig rebuild was identified as a Small Brothers "lightening".

This appears to be a pan with a bit of technology, and I was wondering if this pan is simply an efficent batch pan..............OR...........can you darn near "Finish" boil in this.

I'd like to know more about the more technical pans, as with the construction of a 250 gal evaporator (hopefully next year).......if the utilization of a pan of this nature would catapult us into the multiple gallons of syrup a day..................I'm in!

(Please pardon my ignorance)

Thanks!
Pete

[325abn]

I just bought this pan. I got it out of a divorce situation and really did not know the guy. I talked to the Son and he claimed 35 GAL/HR but I dont buy that.

I hope I can tweek 23 - 27 GAL/HR out of it mayby more if I use the hood right on the pan and rig up a pre heater. I think I should be able to get **** near syrup out of the pan.

I just started to build my 10 X 12 shack.

[NH Maplemaker]

325abn, as hangin has said, do away with the brick :!: Put in a couple inchs of blanket and there is no reason in this world why you shoud'nt beable to draw syrup off the front pan :lol: The nice thing about oil is that one flick of a swich and the fire is gone :!: The 35 gal an hour maybe alittle high, but woud'nt rual it out .You save alot of time on start and shut down with oil :!: We can go right to the last drop of sap before shutting down,then she is done heat is gone :) Hood and preheater will help a lot. Jim L.

[325abn]

You think I can just lay the blanket in the arch and have it stay put?

What if I drilled holes into the sides of the arch and use 2 nuts and a bolt so 1 nut is holding the bolt to the side of the arch and one nut with a washer will hold the blanket?

[Fred Henderson]

I would like to find a web site to buy the ss pins for putting the blanket on. Last time I checked with leader they wanted 6.95 for a 4" pin/w washer. Too rich for my blood. Then their dealers get pissed if we go to Canada and buy.

[HanginAround]

325, you need to fasten it some at least. The bolts would probably work okay, even if you just put a few around the top edges. The firebox is a windy place.

Check with mapleguys.com on the price of studs, might be cheaper than Leader. If they're still too high, check for kiln and refractory supplies on the web, might find a deal.

[802maple]

I have been building evaporators for several years and as I said on another thread you can use as I do 1/4 inch stainless bolts at the length that you require with a stainless fender washer and ss nut. Actually I have been using carriage bolts as they are threaded the whole length.
They can be welded to the steel, I have not had any problems with the 2 steels not agreeing. If you get them from Fastenal or a similar bolt supplier they can be purchased for around 50 to 60 cents each for everything. Remember even the pins that you are looking for are not made for maple companies they are made for boiler appications and can be found much cheaper from a refractorie company

[325abn]

What about my idea that I posted? It seems it would be much eaiser than lugging the arch to a weilder. Why cound't I just use regular nut and bolts? :D

[Breezy Lane Sugarworks]

I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work, seens how it sounds like you're not close to a welder. Just make sure that they are stainless so they can take the heat!

[Fred Henderson]

What about my idea that I posted? It seems it would be much eaiser than lugging the arch to a weilder. Why cound't I just use regular nut and bolts? :D

They can not be regular nuts and bolts they have to be stainless steel so they can with stand the heat.

[Fred Henderson]

I have been building evaporators for several years and as I said on another thread you can use as I do 1/4 inch stainless bolts at the length that you require with a stainless fender washer and ss nut. Actually I have been using carriage bolts as they are threaded the whole length.
They can be welded to the steel, I have not had any problems with the 2 steels not agreeing. If you get them from Fastenal or a similar bolt supplier they can be purchased for around 50 to 60 cents each for everything. Remember even the pins that you are looking for are not made for maple companies they are made for boiler appications and can be found much cheaper from a refractorie company


I just spent over an hour Googleing and still have not come up with those dang pins.

[HanginAround]

Wow, they are hard to find... I found lots of mention of them, but no place that has prices listed or any convenient way to find out. The only price I saw was for pins and ceramic cones rather than stainless washers and they aren't cheap either. I guess all I can say is lots of places have them or can get them, but everyone is shy about putting them on their web sites. I guess a person would have to start calling some of the furnace/kiln/refractory stores and ask. Has anyone asked Chris at mapleguys how much their's are?

[802maple]

That will work but just make sure they are stainless and you will also need to use the fender washers for more surface area. Regular steel will melt in a short amount of time Good luck

[802maple]

Try Salem Refractories in Londonderry , New Hampshire if you feel that you need to go the expensive way. 603 434 6262 they also have a web site www.salemrfractories.com I have built several Intens O fire arches and I have never had the bolts that I use fail plus I have put them in oil fired arches that have burnt up to 30 gallons of fuel a hour

[802maple]

Sorry I gave you the wrong address or atleast spelled it wrong www.salemrefractories.com

[maplwrks]

11:59 p.m. HOLY CHRIST!!!! Don't you sleep!!!

[Father & Son]

He's just conditioning himself for the all night boils coming in a couple of months :lol:

Jim

[802maple]

I can't afford to when you keep coming around once a month and read the meter. I even wonder about when you stop by to chat with my wife while I am deer hunting, no wonder I can't sleep

[Breezy Lane Sugarworks]

HAHA :lol: :lol: !!

[HanginAround]

LOL 8O :D