What kind of taps ?

[Algonquin]

I'm new and will be tapping 35 tree this year. Last year I used 5/16 leader metal taps and was wondering if there was anything better. I've been reading about taps with valves that close off the tree when not flowing. Could you tap longer , say from mid jan. Or doesn't it matter when using buckets.
Also I was thinking of running tube from a few trees to a 5 gal. Bucket / top on it.will it be a problem letting it set on the ground in the snow with freezing the sap? Thanks Tom

[kiteflyingeek]

I'll answer the 5 gallon bucket part of your question -- you want more than 5 gallons if you are putting more than 2 taps into it. I had a 4.5 gallon frosting bucket last yea (http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?18725-Tapped-02-05-near-Evansville-IN)r with 2 taps and in under 16 hours from first tap, it was overflowing. So, that was a big run but with more than 2 taps, you'd be looking at emptying the buckets multiple times per day.

I see two options:
1) get a 10 or 30 gallon drum and run multiple taps into that
2) run max of 2 taps into a 5 gallon and watch out for the days with big flows

I was under the impression that a big flow day was 2 gallons per tap but I've read in here some guys talking about 3-4 gal/tap on a really big run. I cannot say that those numbers are on gravity only but I know my 2+ gal/tap on that first day was gravity only.

Hope that helps. Ask more questions if I've simply confused you -- I hope not.

--andrew

[Algonquin]

Thank you kiteflyer, did you have the bucket on the ground and did you have freeze problems? Also I just read a paper from another thread written by UV . It was on tap size and had really good infro for me. I've thought of using plastic taps and a short piece of tube into a 5 gal. Pail sitting on the ground. I have twenty metal buckets now and thought of getting food grade pails from a bakery local to complete my sugar bush .lol all 35 taps of my operation.

[happy thoughts]

You're tapping in Tennessee? Wherever you tap the season is going to be dependent on freeze/warm cycles. When did you tap last year? I'm not familiar with TN weather in your area but mid Jan or even before might be possible. It might even be preferable in your area. Here in the colder North I've gotten sap as early as ground hog day if the weather is favorable. All depends on the year and the weather. Are there any other tappers near you?. They're the best source of info for your climate.

Yes, you can run tube to buckets with lids. Just leave a way for air to vent so pressure doesn't build up in a tightly closed container. That might create enough back pressure to stop sap flow. If you're going to be emptying them every day and use 1 bucket/tap , then you shouldn't need anything bigger.

Disposable plastic taps are probably the best way to go. Clean new taps tend to run a little longer. Can't tell you about check valves because I've never used them but they are mainly used on vacuum systems. I'm not sure of their benefits on gravity so someone else will have to comment..

post edit

LOL don't know where I got the TN part but think I read N'ville as Nashville. Same advice holds, watch the weather and keep an eye on this forum. People in your area will be posting furiously as the season gets closer. You can tap in january but you won't get sap until the freeze thaw cycle is right. With just 35 taps you can cut it closer than someone with 1000's of taps that needs to be prepared long before the sap runs.

welcome to the forum:)

[maple flats]

Don't worry about that sap freezing. If you find ice in the bucket, throw it out, that is "poor man's RO" The first to freeze is just water, thus concentrating the sap, however if everything freezes solid it got cold enough to freeze the slightly concentrated sap too, in that case save the ice and resume boiling when it thaws so about 1/3 is ice, toss that ice and boil. You are better using food grade buckets than old galv. buckets because of the lead issue. When I was on buckets, I used 5 gal jugs from restaurant frying oil. I cleaned them well and then put a hole in the cap using a tapered steel point and a torch (They often broke when drilled). Then I ran a tap or 2, a short tube and into the jug. Under the cap I used a clamp so the jug couldn't blow away. Then to empty I unscrewed the cap and dumped it into another jug I carried in a rack behind the tractor. If the jug was over half I swapped and if less I poured. I made a funnel of PVC, 1.5" into the jug and a 4x1.5 coupling then a short piece of 4" PVC with a slot cut in one side, barely wider than the jug neck and rounded at the bottom to fit nicely. Thus I set the jug spout being poured into the slot and dumped and didn't lose any of the sap.

[maple flats]

If everything is new you could use any of the plastic taps, but after the first season I suggest a check valve tap to help keep the hold open longer.

[cncaboose]

If you want better bucket taps check out the stainless ones from Next Generation Maple in Syracuse. http://nextgenmaple.com They don't break, clean up better, and hold their bucket on even in a stiff wind.

[Algonquin]

Thank you guys for the advise, this is a lot of fun just learning how to do this hobby . Although I being a bit weary of the addiction aspect of it. Tom

[kiteflyingeek]

Like mapleflats said, don't worry about the freeze. It really is the poor man's Reverse Osmosis. Just throw out any floating ice.

I'll recommend putting the tubing into the side of the bucket. The reason to do that is if you put the hole in the lid, any rain that collects in the lid will sit there and eventually drain into the bucket. That just makes more boiling time :-(.

Yes, I put the buckets on the ground and put about 3 feet of tubing from tap to bucket. Check the link in my original reply to see photos of the buckets. I did put bricks on the top of the lids to keep the wind from causing problems with empty buckets.

I'd be careful with the metal buckets -- depends on what you are doing with your syrup.

Good luck!

--andrew