Wood splitter / hydraulics problem

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

I built a 4' splitter a few years back. It worked great the first year until the cheap snowblower motor died. I put a new 18hp Honda on it this year and it has been working pretty good. That is up until lately. I am no hydraulics expert, I know enough to be dangerous but not enough to solve this problem. This issue is I am blowing filters on my return line. I blew a brand new one on its first use today. So obviously I am getting a lot more than 15-30 psi on my return line. My guesses are that the filter simply isn't large enough to handle the flow the 16gpm pump gives, the control valve that restricts return line pressure is gone, or the reservoir tank is building pressure. This is happening when splitting a large twisted piece. I can see the pressure building on the cylinder and then the filter peels like a frozen soda can and oil is being projected everywhere at 16 gpm. Not fun. I've received two hydraulic oil showers in the last few weeks. The cap on the reservoir blows off at the same time. I could fumble around and try to figure this out, buy more parts than i need and then ask someone for help. Or I could reach out to the smart people on this forum who know a lot more about this than I do .

Thanks in advance,
Ben

[NH Maplemaker]

If you have a screen in the return line, check that! Mine plugged a few years back and did just what yours is doing! Fluid couldn't get back into tank and would burst the filter every time the pump would work a little hard!

[maple flats]

What flow rating is the filter? You may need a bigger one, or the screen is plugged causing a restriction, or you may just need a larger return flow line. A blown filter means pressure is building where there should be almost zero, something is reducing the return flow.

[maplehick]

Is the vent to tank pluged? Maybe building back pressure?

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

Thanks for the replies, that is where I am going to start. See if the tank vent is plugged up. I don't think there is a screen in the return line at all. Comes from the control valve to the filter to the tank. Headed to pick up a new filter as large as possible with as high microns possible. And a new tank cap if I can find one.

Ben

[TonyL]

I second the suggestion regarding the tank vent....if it's blowing the cap off, then it's the first thing to check.

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

I picked up a new vent and another new filter today. I had no idea the vent was in such rough shape until I put a new one in my hands. The new one was weightless vs. my old one that felt like lead. I hope that was my issue. I'll fire it up in the morning and report back.

Thanks for the help,
Ben

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

Alright, well I wish I could say that solved my problem. New filter rated at 30 Microns and a new vent cap to relieve the pressure installed yesterday. Ran it for a couple hours with no problems. Then when the oil heated up a little on a big piece that required a little extra, the filter popped again. Not quite as bad an oil shower this time, but still oil pissing out the side of the filter at the seam on top of filter. ??? Is it my relief valve for the return line in the control valve. If so do I have to buy a new $150-200 control valve, or can I fix it? Or is it something else maybe.

I wish I knew a little more on troubleshooting hydraulics. They are really so simple in a wood splitter. I just don't understand why on hard to split pieces I am getting above normal pressure in the return line. My intake line to the pump is slightly bigger than the return line. I think it is 1 1/4 and the return is 1" does that matter?

Thanks,
Ben

[maple flats]

Aside from the micron rating what is the GPM rating. Also, do you have a non foaming hydraulic oil? One that does not have the non foaming property will foam and restrict oil flow thru the filter. Did you use Hydraulic oil or motor oil? Is the oil new or reused, that can be an issue especially if it has taken on water. Did you pull every thing apart on the return to verify that nothing is plugged?

[BAP]

What size hoses and filter housing are you using? Are they as big or bigger than the pressure hose? If not they should be. Also is the filter housing plumbed correctly, there should be arrows on it for direction of flow. What are you using for a vent? If it isn't big enough it could be causing the back pressure. You mentioned the micron rating of the filter, but is the flow rating big enough? Micron rating only tells you what size particles it filters out, not the flow through it.

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

The flow rating on the filter is 16 GPM, same as the pump. It is all plumbed right as it has worked for some time before this issue started recurring. The pressure lines are 1/2", the feed line is 1" and the return is 3/4. My brother suggested a 1" return line and filter. The threads on the filter head I have now are 3/4, so are the threads coming out of the control valve and 3/4 going back into the tank. Only using new hydraulic oil. At like 15-20$ per gal. And 10-15 per filter, I need to figure this out.

My next plan is to increase the size of my return line to 1", or even 1 1/4". Will increasing to 1 or 1 1/4" matter since the threads coming out of the control valve and going into the reservoir are only 3/4".

Thanks,
Ben

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

here are the specifications on my pump
Hydraulic Log Splitter Pump | Flow Rating : 16.0 GPM @ 3,600 RPM | Splitting Force : 33 Tons | Pump Shaft Size : 1/2 in. | Cycle Time : 11 sec. | Suggested Cylinder Size (Diameter) : 5 in. | Drive Required : 8 HP | Material : Cast Iron

The motor is 18hp. I wonder if I am cranking past the 3,600 rpm's and getting more than 16 gpm. I have been running the motor at half to 2/3 throttle. If it is doing more than 16 gpm is it generating more than 33 tons? Also something else that may be an issue is my cylinder is only 3.5". It is undersized for sure. It came off a front end loader. But has worked good in the past.

The oil can's are popping when the 2nd stage kicks in on the pump.

Thanks again for any ideas.

Ben

[OGDENS SUGAR BUSH]

I think u have a cyl. leaking internally

[RFM]

Try running your unit with the Breather removed, add a pipe or hose to make a verticle column to prevent spilling, If it foams or pumps out the top you will need a bigger tank. (your problem is a restriction between the filter cartridge and the tank including the breather). A 16gpm filter with a 16gpm pump leaves no room for error. I personally would put a larger filter housing and cartridge on. 20 or even 50 gpm (northern Item# 778649). The larger filter will cause less resistance and last longer. Return hose from filter to tank 1 " or 1 1/4 ". Good Luck

[maplehick]

Ben did it pop the cap of the tank this time? If not could there be part of the filter body in the return line? If the return line is clear the pressure control valve could be bypassing but I thinkthe filter would handle the 16gpm flow it is rated for. Did any oil shoot out of the tank vent? Sorry more questions than answers!

[Wanabe1972]

Ben I dabble with hydraulics at work and have a few ideas. 1 how cold is it outside when you are splitting and are you letting it warm up good before using. 2 most all of our systems at work the return line is half again as big as the feed.. you may also need to check lines to the back of the cylinder if there is blockage your bypass could be send pressure to the filter. Also you could have an internal leak in the spool or cylinder. It almost sounds like the filter is to small in size or micron. I think I read you use a screw on filter they make a filter unit the is much heavier with a drop in element that may work for you.

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

Thanks for the replies.

I ordered the 50 gpm filter and assembly from Northern Tool last night ($54 with shipping). Based on what my brother said, and what everyone is saying here, I think my current 16 gpm filter isn't big enough to handle the 16 gpm pump. Stinks I have to wait 3-4 days for it to arrive, but it was twice as much at my local parts store and they had to order it as well.

If the increased flow doesn't solve my problem, I will look into the cylinder leaking, or something else like people have suggested. I'm thinking the 50gpm and increasing the return from 3/4 to 1 1/4 will do the trick. I sure hope so because I have a pile of 20 cord standing in front of me still to split that needs to be in the wood shed yesterday.

I feel like I just completed hydraulics 101.

Thanks,
Ben

[maple flats]

I think you are on the right track now. While my splitter is kinetic and not hydraulic, I have farm equipment that run hydraulic pumps. Most have a return line at least double what the pressure line is and the filter housing has the same size holes as the return line is, suggesting that the GPM rating is matched. As an example, I have a Weed badger (hydraulic tiller) that has 1/2" pressure lines (2) and the return line and filter housing is 1 1/4". Another point, the hydraulic tank holds 22 gal of oil. However this system runs 22 gpm at only 700 PSI so it may not help to compare.

[bstewar]

Several years ago I had a splitter spitting Hyd oil out of the breather cap. The force was also lacking in the cylinder some. It ended up being the control valve. We replaced it and we were back in business.
I hope you'll be able to figure out your problem soon! Best of luck.

[noreast maple]

Your return line definitly needs to be bigger than feed line so when the secound stage kicks in , oil has some place to move freely,Thats the way it works on log loaders and any wood spliters. you wont have to worry about the 3/4 port on valve unless it starts blowing presure line. just increase return line from valve to filter and from filter to tank and you should be GOLDEN!!! good luck.

[JK1979]

One simple step, put a pressure gauge on your return line. Also, you didn't supply enough information on the components you have. What is the psi ratings for the control valve, cylinder, and the pump? Does the cylinder still continue to split the wood as the filter is blowing apart? If the packing was out of the cylinder you would get blow by and you wouldn't split the wood. All of the hydraulic oil would by pass the packing and the piston and go straight to the return. This is a good possibility of what is happening here in my opinion. You need to double check your cylinder, valve and pump pressure ratings. Just to keep throwing a bigger filter on is a band aid. If your car keeps blowing a 10 amp fuse, do you just put a 30 amp in it? Probly not, you would probly try to find the cause. At least I would before it caught fire.

[JK1979]

I seriously would check your ratings on your cylinder, to me it sounds like you have a 2000 psi cylinder and a 3500 psi pump. It works fine when the pump is in single stage probably at 2000psi, then the 2nd stage kicks in and gives you another 1000 or 1500psi and it is blowing right past the piston pressurizing your return line. Your return line should not be carrying that kind of pressure whatsoever. Most return lines are low pressure hoses and increasing the size does nothing for the pressure issue, that is creating more volume. Tank size will do nothing either, sure the bigger the tank is better, but that is for heat purposes. More volume is lower heat extending the life of your valves, pump, and cylinder. If you don't know your ratings and you are mis matching parts you are in a way playing with fire so to speak. All it can take is one small pin hole at that pressure to hit you and it can blow a hole right through you. Sure it may have worked for a while, but as the packing and seals got worn it is now just creating blow by at your cylinder and pressurizing your return line.

[lpakiz]

Did you by any chance, do anything on the suction side of the pump? Could it be that the pump is pulling in air on the line SUPPLYING the pump, from the tank? (Suction line)
The pump would compress the air/oil mixture and it would expand in the part of the circuit that is supposed to be under no pressure. (The return circuit, including the filter). It may be that, in effect, you have more GPM than your pump is supposed to deliver, because of the air.
If you think this could be possible, look into the tank while it is working, and see if the oil is milky looking. If you can't see into the reservoir, could you unhook the return line and insert it to the filler neck to observe the flow while operating? Although this condition should be constant, not just while it is splitting a tough chunk.

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

Hmmm, that is some good information. A hole cut through me sounds bad. I didn't do anything to the intake line, but will still check to see if the oil is milky in the tank. I have been splitting away but still blow a filter out after 1 day of use. I am waiting now for the larger filter before trying again. However, that may not solve the problem if it is mismatched parts like JK1979 is suggesting.

The idea of my parts being mismatched could be the case since this is a frankensplitter. 12' I beam with a 48" front end loader piston (not sure what it is rated for?) I don't know how to find out either? I looked for a formula online, but didn't find anything I could understand. Below are the specifications for the pump again and the control valve. I am running the motor at half or less idle and the piston is the only unknown in terms of rating. I hate the idea of buying a new piston and rewelding to make it fit. But the idea of a hole cut into me with high pressure oil sounds worse. How can I check my piston to determine if it can handle the pressure. Is that simply putting a pressure gauge on the return line and watching to see if it spikes when the 2nd stage kicks in?

Thanks for all the help.
Ben
81058106
Sorry for the upside down picture.

Pump is a tractor supply SKU 1815555
Designed for use on log splitters
High strength cast iron body
16 GPM @ 3,600 RPM
Drive required: 8 HP
Suggested cylinder size (diameter): 5 in.
Cycle time: 11 sec.
Pump shaft size: 1/2 in.
High pressure section: .192 CID
Splitting force: 33 tons

Control valve is a Speco
Description - Single Spool
Inlet Ports - 3/4 in. NPTF
Maximum Operating Pressure - 3400 PSI
Outlet Ports - 3/4 in. NPTF
Work Ports - 1/2 in. NPT
Brand - SpeeCo
Manufacturer Part Number - 390406S0

[noreast maple]

Bigger return line is going to be your prblem solver, friend of mine had same problem and bigger return line solved it .even if your piston was leaking by it would be getting worse each time you use it and sooner or later you would not be able to push it through kindlind wood . even if its leaking by the seals you have to have big enough return line to handle what the pump is rated for, not the piston!!----BIGGER RETURN LINE!!!!!!!!

[lpakiz]

Absolutely right. The pump puts out a certain volume. Pressure, piston by pass, etc, has nothing to do with how much flows back thru the return filter. Actually, every drop you pump must go back to the tank--no more, no less.

And when the pump kicks down to high pressure, it is only cutting out the higher volume section of the 2 stage pump, so your volume is way less-probably 1/4 of the low pressure volume, which is the volume of both sections together.

[lpakiz]

Actually, there is a way to get more volume than you pump, temporarily.
I read on here about a special wood splitter valve that diverts the oil from the pressure side of the circuit back to the retract circuit during the retract cycle. But that oil is not returning to the tank, it is going back into the retract end of the cylinder, so it should not impact volume on the advance cycle, which is where you are blowing out the filter.

[lpakiz]

I have seen the inner liner of a hydraulic hose collapse because of a small hole in the inner liner. The outer wall contains the oil, so no visible external leak. This collapse could be a source of intermittent back pressure.
The path of the oil from the outlet of the filter to the tank must be unimpeded , neither by too small diameter hose, too small fittings, blockage like stated here, too much oil volume, etc.
There must be hardly any pressure here, as I doubt the filter could stand 50 PSI.

[RFM]

Ben,

When you install the new larger filter and larger return hose, Take the cap or breather off the tank when you first test it. This will prevent blowing the filter in the event the tank is too small, or too full. (Oil will blow out.) While the tank was adquate for the old engine set up, the new one may be pumping quite a bit more gpm.

[lpakiz]

No, if you have the same pump at the same RPM, it don't matter if you have 5 HP or 500 HP. The pump delivers the same amount per revolution. I think you mentioned .192 cubic inches per rev.
At 1750 RPM, that calculates out to 1.454545 GPM. Doesn't sound like much, but you did say this was the high pressure, low volume phase of the pump, and you were at half throttle. This would be about 3 GPM at full speed, which sounds right for a 16 GPM, 2 stage pump in the slow, powerful stage.
Also, bear in mind that the manufacturer gives you the total GPM under the assumption that you will turn it at max RPM, probably 3600, the usual governed full load speed of a gas engine. You said you ran at half throttle, so I guessed at 1725 RPM.
You could try operating at an even slower engine speed, to see if this would help the problem.
The formula for total GPM is: displacement per revolution times the RPM. Then divide this number by 231, the number of cubic inches in a gallon.

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

The UPS Man just came and went. I am now looking at a monster filter assembly. I am excited. 50 GPM rated.

The question about the install is this. The outlet on the control valve is 3/4. I can neck it up immediately to 1 1/4 like the inlet of the filter, then run solid pipe from control valve to filter inlet. Then a low pressure 1 1/4 hose back to the tank. My concern is the inlet on the tank is 3/4. I am thinking I have my tank set up wrong too. Currently I have the out let necked down from 1 1/4, or even 1 1/2 down to 1", and the return line is 3/4" fitting into the tank. Maybe I should put the 1" line that feeds the pump on the 3/4 outlet, and make the return line a full 1 1/4" fitting on the tank.

Any suggestions? I would love to hear that the fittings didn't' matter, but I doubt it.

Thanks,
Ben

[RFM]

Ben,
If you forward me your phone number, I can probably help you. Would rather talk in person.

[noreast maple]

Yes switch outlets on tank or make return port bigger , problem then cured. -- oil has to have unrestricked flow, 3/4 inlet is too small for returnand would defeat you using bigger return line , they need to be the same. good luck.

[maple flats]

I agree with noreast maple, set the tank up for the biggest opening to be the return line. You want no restriction in the return line.

[Clarkfield Farms]

Almost two weeks, 4 pages, 33 replies... still not OK? Take it to a small engine repair shop. They're actually going to be the ONLY ones that will have real, HANDS-ON, access to physically test and find your splitter's problem(s) and they have the experience, know-how, parts, diagnostic tools and equipment, facilities and everything else that would have fixed your problem with FAR less time and maybe even less money than you've thrown at it this far. AND you would've been informed what the problem REALLY was/is, they'd most likely take the time to show you what's what, and you'd be more enlightened about it and be in a better position to definitively offer help to someone (many someones? lol) on here and elsewhere that need the help in the future.

Just my two cents. And maybe more help than you've gotten so far. :D

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

The other night I spoke with RFM. He builds/designs splitters and hydraulic systems for the mining industry. He seemed to really have a complete understanding of my components and how they will all work together.

He told me that my pump is rated to 4,000 psi. That my control valve is rated to 3,400 and that my piston is the unknown, but is likely only rated for 2,000 or 2,500.

That multiple issues would be the source of the problem including the size of my reservoir (it's only 5 gal and could be causing turbulence and air intake in the oil to the pump), the size of my filter/return line, the location of my pump/reservoir and the size of my cylinder. These things will cause heat and the air/heat/undersized cylinder/undersized return line is the likely cause of the building pressure in the filter. He also told me that my control valve does NOT have a relief valve like some others do. So it doesn't provide relief in the case of system overload (something I would seek out if rebuilding).

I know, I could have saved some coin buying a new one, then customizing it. I kind of wish I had done that. But now I think I am on my way to understanding how to build a proper working hydraulic system.

A new tank is several hundred and so is a cylinder. Could easily spend over $1,000 for both. For now, I need to get my wood split, so I will try the new filter tomorrow with an 1 1/4" return line and the 50 gpm filter (got fittings today) running the motor just above idle. My neighbor has an old town truck he's parting out with an oil reservoir that is 30-40 gal. I would run it half/two thirds full. I will try to get that mounted on if he will part with it and then I only will need a new cylinder to finish the process of making my splitter not only better and longer lasting, but safer to operate. The other thing I may look to put on the splitter would be a relief valve before the control valve. That wouldn't allow pressure to get to the control valve past 3,000 PSI, which is what most all cylinders are rated for. Then it will be complete. Finally.

Another piece of advice that RFM gave me was about where and how to mount the reservoir tank. He suggested to set it up so that it was above the pump as the intake is gravity fed. This won't be too hard as it is only about 5" below the pump now. Also suggested mounting the filter directly onto the reservoir tank.

I will get all these things done in time over the next few weeks. I will keep you posted with how it splits after just changing out the filter and tank.

5 cord split, 30 to go:cry:

I predict my hunting season being cut short:cry:

[noreast maple]

Relief valve is good , but im sure your valve already has one ,- the presure side isnt your problem or you would be blowing high presure line , valve is smaller than pump but you are only running at half throtle so not pumping more than valve can handle, return smaller than supply , tank is not running dry or it would be cavitating , we will wait and see .:o

[OGDENS SUGAR BUSH]

The other night I spoke with RFM. He builds/designs splitters and hydraulic systems for the mining industry. He seemed to really have a complete understanding of my components and how they will all work together.

He told me that my pump is rated to 4,000 psi. That my control valve is rated to 3,400 and that my piston is the unknown, but is likely only rated for 2,000 or 2,500.

That multiple issues would be the source of the problem including the size of my reservoir (it's only 5 gal and could be causing turbulence and air intake in the oil to the pump), the size of my filter/return line, the location of my pump/reservoir and the size of my cylinder. These things will cause heat and the air/heat/undersized cylinder/undersized return line is the likely cause of the building pressure in the filter. He also told me that my control valve does NOT have a relief valve like some others do. So it doesn't provide relief in the case of system overload (something I would seek out if rebuilding).

I know, I could have saved some coin buying a new one, then customizing it. I kind of wish I had done that. But now I think I am on my way to understanding how to build a proper working hydraulic system.

A new tank is several hundred and so is a cylinder. Could easily spend over $1,000 for both. For now, I need to get my wood split, so I will try the new filter tomorrow with an 1 1/4" return line and the 50 gpm filter (got fittings today) running the motor just above idle. My neighbor has an old town truck he's parting out with an oil reservoir that is 30-40 gal. I would run it half/two thirds full. I will try to get that mounted on if he will part with it and then I only will need a new cylinder to finish the process of making my splitter not only better and longer lasting, but safer to operate. The other thing I may look to put on the splitter would be a relief valve before the control valve. That wouldn't allow pressure to get to the control valve past 3,000 PSI, which is what most all cylinders are rated for. Then it will be complete. Finally.

Another piece of advice that RFM gave me was about where and how to mount the reservoir tank. He suggested to set it up so that it was above the pump as the intake is gravity fed. This won't be too hard as it is only about 5" below the pump now. Also suggested mounting the filter directly onto the reservoir tank.

I will get all these things done in time over the next few weeks. I will keep you posted with how it splits after just changing out the filter and tank.

5 cord split, 30 to go:cry:

I predict my hunting season being cut short:cry:
somebody is blowing smoke

[wiam]

I cannot see how a valve with or without a relief valve or the pressure rating of the cylinder has anything to do with the filter blow outs you describe. Either filter too small, tank not breathing right (which should not be a problem when the cylinder is extending because the oil volume in the tank should be going down) or a restriction in return line(plugged or too small

[JK1979]

RFM gave you accurate information and I would stick with it. As I stated before, the only way that return line can get pressure is by going through the piston. Unless of coarse your tank doesn't have a breather on it. A small tank will generate more heat and break down the packing and the seals in both valves and cylinder and make them weaker. Likely the cause for it working and now having problems. And if pressure ratings on these components don't mean anything, why do they put them on them? Because that is what they are rated for to safely operate!!

[noreast maple]

we will see ,--just saying!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Big_Eddy]

Post a picture - we want to see how it is plumbed. There should be nothing but a BIIIIIG short hose between the filter and the tank.

If that's the case - your filter is too small for the rated flow or your filter is plugging. Does your filter have a built in relief in case it gets plugged? Does it run well for the first hour and then burst - i.e. how clean is the fluid, is it water logged, are you flaking rust from somewhere?

If that's not the case -then you have plumbing / routing issues. With no restrictions between the filter and the tank - there's no way to build pressure at the filter.

[noreast maple]

I agree!!--Still waiting to see how you make out.

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

I have some good news I think. I finally had more time this morning to work on the splitter. RFM told me to try to eliminate any or all of the 3 elbows I have on the return line. I already took every other fitting apart trying to find some sort of blockage and found nothing. Well of course the one fitting I didn't had a near complete blockage from a valve that is supposed to be in the filter housing. It must have blown out and lodged into the 90*. I removed it and the filter housing and ran the return line direct from tank to control valve. I am going to wait til I can get the bigger tank to put the larger filter with 1 1/4 line on. I don't see a lot of purpose in it now since I still have the 3/4" port back into the tank. The tank my neighbor has which he wants to "look" at before he agrees to part with, has 1 1/4 inlet and outlet already.

Thanks everyone for all the input. I am going to test it now and RFM told me that if oil blows out of my reservoir vent then I have other problems. I know I have other problems since it is heating up. I think it is in line for another rebuild in the off season. I just hope I can get all my wood split in the mean time. I plan to put the bigger tank on and probably go with a larger cylinder. Even better I may install a relief valve before the control valve to keep the system at 3,000 psi as most cylinders are only rated for 3,000 psi.

I know running it without a filter now isn't the best idea. But the oil in my splitter is brand new so should be free of any contaminants and has been filtered thoroughly. I have a mountain of wood to split so have little choice consider budget constraints.

I will post an update after the test run.

Ben

[Big_Eddy]

'Twas mine, I wouldn't run it 5 minutes without a filter unless I was planning to put a new pump on it - filters are cheap - pumps aren't.

[maplehick]

'Twas mine, I wouldn't run it 5 minutes without a filter unless I was planning to put a new pump on it - filters are cheap - pumps aren't.

Amen!!!!! Don't do it its not worth the risk.

[maplehick]

I'm with big eddie more risk than reward!!!!!!

[noreast maple]

Good luck, I wouldnt worry to much as long as everything is clean, I run one of miy friends that way and believe it or not , since he took fillter off , no more blockage and runs cool. --I think you found your problem in the elbow and id bet you wont heat up no more. go bigger line when you get the time, and money.

[noreast maple]

All this talk and the obvious just hit me like a swift kick, you filter should be on the suction side coming out of the tank. why would you want to fillter afterwards when all of the contaminates if any, have already gone through your components? -you still need bigger return, but the fillter should be the first thing the oil runs through.---filter cannot blow on suction side.

[wiam]

All this talk and the obvious just hit me like a swift kick, you filter should be on the suction side coming out of the tank. why would you want to fillter afterwards when all of the contaminates if any, have already gone through your components? -you still need bigger return, but the fillter should be the first thing the oil runs through.---filter cannot blow on suction side.

Bad idea. If filter gets plugged pump gets no oil. Cavitation is harder on a pump than dirty oil.

[noreast maple]

See how many manufactures will warranty parts with fillter on return side!!

[noreast maple]

Just wondering how you made out with hydralics? did you figure it out yet?

[Scribner's Mountain Maple]

I wanted to report back on my hydraulic issues and wood splitting for my 2014 season. I put in some pictures of the wood pile. It is a happy wood shed once again. 5 stacks, 20' long, 3' wide by 10' tall +/-. Roughly 5 cord per stack. I also have room for 1-2 cord of slabs.

As for the hydraulics I learned a great deal from this and want to thank everyone willing to share experience and opinions. It got the job done for me and I am pretty thankful.

My issue was likely the first thought everyone had and the simplest problem to fix. I found a Plug in the return line between the filter and reservoir. I guess I didn't believe there could be anything blocking the line as there shouldn't have been anything in the system that could possibly cause a blockage. But I looked anyway. I took all my lines off, took it apart and didn't find anything that jumped out at me. Put it back together, put new filters on and problem continued. I looked into new pistons and filters, reservoir tanks. Which would have made my already expensive custom splitter to become a lot more expensive. Then RFM called me and said he was looking at my picture of my splitter and noticed something that isn't helping the problem. He noticed 3 elbows in my return line. One out of Control Valve, one out of Filter and another into reservoir. He said to eliminate as many as I could. Upon taking apart the 90 on the back end of the filter I found a red valve that used to be in the filter housing. This caused the blockage and was the reason why the filters kept popping like frozen soda cans.

In speaking with RFM, and the information he told me on hydraulics, more specifically the components I have, that it is a matter of sizing things appropriately and using the proper hydraulic lines for the ratings of my pump and making sure the piston could handle the pressure. If things are not sized appropriately to one another, problems, even serious injury can occur as some have pointed out.

My solution was to run the system without a filter just this once. Not happy about it, but the rebuild with the new filter and reservoir tank will tank money and time and maybe some more welding. I have a 40 gal tank I need to pull of my neighbor's old dump truck that I will put on and fill half full in the future. Along with a 50 gpm filter housing I will mount directly on the tank. That will allow me to run the splitter for longer periods of time without heating up the hydraulic fluids. My 5 gal tank now just isn't big enough for the 16 GPM pump I have. The 3 gal of fluid I have in the tank is circulated 5 times a minute. Not so good for running long periods of time. As for the cylinder. It's a little small I think. Someday I will likely go with a 4 1/2" OD cylinder for strength and durability and safety. The plus side of my 3 1/2 cylinder is speed. It is pretty fast and it would be sad to lose that speed. However it would be worse if it broke because it is undersized during use, that could make for a real bad day.

To anyone looking to build something themselves as opposed to buying one "off the shelf". I say go for it. Yes you will likely run into some problems along the way, may even spend more $ on it. But you will learn a great deal in the process. Also, if you get stuck like I was, there are great places on the web like this that can help you figure it out. In the end you will have something you designed and created.

Thanks again,
Ben


822282248225

[noreast maple]

Glad you got it done, goog luck!!