Pipe to evaporator

[maplefrank]

I need to put new pipe from storage tank. What would be a good pipe?? It has to come from outside. Some say PVC.

[maple flats]

I say copper. If the line freezes you can more easily thaw it using a torch. However, you are wise to insulate it and if you have power at the sugarhouse, use a heat tape. PVC is ok if you have the power, insulate it and use a heat tape.

[BreezyHill]

I had pvc connect to me preheater from my storage tank. The heat in the preheater transferred back to the pvc and caused it to warp. One night I was rudely awoken by a sudden splash of cold sap. The rubber connector with clamps had pulled off the pvc the warping was so bad. That will teach me to close my eyes on the third shift of boiling. :mrgreen:

I am switching to stainless as I have removed a bunch from old milking barns. There is a bunch on ebay and the cost is often less than same size copper and the tri clover connections are great for perfect fits and you can buy valves on ebay to mate to the line. Totally food grade compliant, very easy to wash and looks great. I am rebuilding my preheater and removing the copper that was silver soldered for all stainless.

Freezing in copper and pvc is an issue. My house was built in 1843 brick and wood addition for the kitchen in the last 25 years I have gotten really good at soldering frozen copper lines. The radiant floor a couple years back was the best thing ever done to the house.

I would rather close a valve on the tank at night rather than run a heat tap due to the heating of the tape will speed bacteria growth in the tank. Empty pipe wont freeze. Ice on top of tank can be removed to save boiling time.

Think about what will save you the most time in cleanup and easy of operation. There is only so many hours in a day.

[Maplewalnut]

I also did copper. Easy to solder, easy to find fittings etc. I boil out every night so i dont leave feed pipe full at least not on purpose. As Flats says its an easy thaw the next day with a torch if you do have frozen spot.

[maple flats]

When I had a line outside (about 4') I had freezing a few times. I used clear vinyl tube cut into short pieces as couplings outside. I had 1 coupled to the copper at the tank, then about 16" of copper, an elbow, and about 34" into the sugarhouse. about 6" before the wall I had another vinyl coupling (with hose clamps). Once it entered the sugarhouse I had 2 more vinyl couplings before it entered my pre-heater. When I had a freeze, the expansion was all taken up by the vinyl. I never burst a tube and this method was run for 9 seasons. Then leading up to last season, I built a new platform, turned so the tank valve was accessable inside the sugarhouse thru a cut out in the wall. The tank was entirely outside and insulated against the sugarhouse wall. Last year I had no freeze ups, as I don't leave any sap in the line, I close the tank valve and dump the line into the float box. This way I have all copper fittings from the valve to the evaporator (no pre-heater yet), except 1 vinyl coulper that joins the valve extension to the copper. The few times in the past that I had freezes were when I thought it wouldn't get cold enough and I left sap in the line. When I thought it would freeze I drained it, must be I'm no better at the weather than those who are paid big bucks to forecast it!
The big issue is that I could thaw a pipe with a torch and never had a burst sap feed line. I was just careful not to let the flames hit the vinyl.

[tuckermtn]

copper here also. easy to heat to thaw if anything freezes. not that that ever happens....

[PerryFamily]

Copper here as well. I always boil everything so freezing is not an issue.