Anyone running revolution style pans

[Wanabe1972]

Just wondering if anyone runs syrup pan with the draw off section perpendicular to the flue pan. My syrup pan is home built and I was thinking of changing the configuration of the sections to this style. The reason I want to do this is if I don't keep the fire concentrated on the right side where I draw off it tends to make syrup in the center section and makes big batches. I think this would help me keep a good boil in the flue pan and make smaller batches. Thanks Jeff

[Bruce L]

Hi Jeff, our revolution pan draw-off section runs across the front of the arch perpendicular to the flue pan, it was custom made that way by Leader I believe, as our arch is enclosed in a stone wall, with one side banked into the side of a hill, so all syrup is drawn off the right front corner of the arch. I can snap a picture if you like.

[Wanabe1972]

Bruce. That's what I want but have the draw off section closest the the flue pan where the most heat is. It would have 1 draw off section perpendicular and closest to the flue pan and 3 sections going parallel to the flue pan toward the loading door.

[sugarsand]

Wanabee, we're getting a revolution style pan from Smokey Lake. After talking to several producers with Revolution pans, we thought it was a good way to go. Our arch sits close to the wall, now we will be able to draw off just one side and change draw direction on the fly. It"s setup the same way you were describing with the cross section nearest the flues.

Sugarsand

[twobears1224]

we ran regular crossflow pans for several years on a 5x14 arch then made some changes and went to a 2x8 arch with a r.o. and revolution style front pan and leaders max flue pan.i like the crossflow pans much better on the revolution pan the cross flow section is to the back next to the flue pan and it works great,,the other section you drawoff on is on the right side of the arch and is nothing but a pita!! we end up with syrup in the second section instead of the drawoff section,we can,t even get a thermeter to work right in it and it,s a PITA to dlute down with a scoop if you need too.i,ll take a set of regular crossflows any day.

[maple flats]

My front pan has 4 cross flow sections. I have same side draw (just close 1 valve, open another and move the float to other draw off). As such, I am drawing from the section closest to the flue pan one time and from the most forward section after switching. In order to detect a difference I'd need to use a timer and flow meter. If any the difference is slight. However, I do have AUF and AOF, both on high pressure, this might make a difference. I do not make syrup in the center much, but the first draw after a change over is larger, but not huge. I draw constant draw, but regulate the draw rate based on the temperature at the draw off valve. Generally after a change I have about 8-10 minutes before the draw is started, and I do increase the rate for a few minutes, but then it goes back to steady. Running concentrate I draw from 7-9 GPH. I do own a auto draw but don't think I'll use it, (it came as part of a deal of used equipment). I keep it just in case I change my mind.

[Wanabe1972]

Thanks guys I still up in the air but I know I need to do something. Sometimes the auto draw let's off so much syrup at once I have to push down on the float to bring my level back to a safe level. This kills my boil then I'm running another hour before it draws off again. I rarely ever make fancy mostley medium and some dark.

[halfast tapper]

I help a friend of mine boil. We have a 5x16 oil fired with revolutions on them. We had one of the first revolutions made. Love them. We did have some problems once in a while making syrup in second bay but not too bad. We had more trouble with the cross flow bay by the flue pan. That is where our hot spot is and it did not want to flow very well , we just dealt with it . Two years ago we got a new front pan and changed the draw off position to front of arch same side. What a difference. Leader told us it would never work. We know from experience that it would. We had a 4x14 wood fired with syrup pan that drew off in front. Anyway, we don't have any flow problems like we used to and make nice light syrup. The only time it can be a pain is when you switch sides. But that is true for any pan. What we do is we switch sides and draw off about 15 gallons of light sap and dump it back into pan where the sap is drawing in. This gets the flow going and by the time the third pail is drawn off about 5 minutes later we are drawing off syrup again without any monsterous draws. works well. Love the revolutions. Why change a pan when you can change a valve. Don't have to shut down at all. Sometimes we have to change sides every two drums, saves a lot of time.

[Flat Lander Sugaring]

Thad has a unit once set at syrup is has a modulator valve that is opened by temperature and also adjusted automatically with barometric pressure. The marceland units I have seen in the past you are always adjusting them and always WO when they dump which creates like tidal wave in syrup pan because when it closes it slams shut all that syrup rushing towards draw turns around and goes back.
Will post video of Thads unit(auto draw) working.

[nymapleguy607]

Just an observation from my setup, I have a reverse flow syrup pan, I used to use a dial thermometer for when to draw off. That thermometer was located about in about the center of the pan. I used to have a problem with large batches and making syrup in the center partitions until last year. I switched thermometers to a digital therm. that had a temp probe. I put the probe back towards the draw off box and I got alot more consistant draws of syrup. I would draw off about quart every 20min or so instead of a gallon every hour. Just a thought before you drop money on a new pan.