Hooking 2 bulk tanks together?

[syrup2nv]

I currently have a 5x5.5x12 SS tank. I'm doubling my taps, so I need more storage. I would like to put another 5x5.5x12 right next to it. What would be the best way to couple them together? Overflow? Manifold? Will the Manifold freeze? It would be nice to only have to drain from 1 tank. Any thoughts, pictures or opinions would be great. Thanks in advance.

[Thompson's Tree Farm]

I usually hook the tanks together via the outlets with a T between them. I like a valve before the T from each tank so they can be used separately (a slow run, washing one tank or the other). I have a valve after the T to control my draining of the tanks.

[syrup2nv]

TTF I like that method!! Do you use PVC or Tiger-Flex? Any troubles with freezing?

[sjdoyon]

We have two 1,500 gallon SS tanks side by side with the same set up as Thompson's with PVC shut off valves. Never had a issue with freezing but we never leave sap in tanks during freezing temps. We installed another T in the RO room to send sap and dirty water from cleaning tanks over the bank.

[syrup2nv]

Tanks are located in my sugarwoods, 10mi from my sugarhouse. There is always a chance of freeze up.

[sugarsand]

This may be an option. With two tanks side by side and level, insert an upright tee on both drain lines before the valves as Thompson described. Out of one tee with a upright that will cross over and down to the other tee. With the cross over pipe placed at any preferred height, the first tank with lines will fill to that level before filling the other tank. Does sound like it would work due to liquid finding its own level.

Sugarsand

[OneLegJohn]

You have to vent otherwise it just siphons.... Tried it.

[sugarsand]

One leg, if it sifones, wont it just equal out the two tanks? My thought was it will fill the first tank, say for ashort run, then on a big run when the sap gets to the cross over level the second tank would start filling too. You could have the cross over near the full level of tank #. it wuoldn't run into tank #2 till that point would it?

Sugarsand

[OneLegJohn]

I'm not sure.

[BreezyHill]

If tank one is not vented in any way with the lines being pumped into tank #1 there will be some back pressure on tank one that will relieve into tank #2 until pressure is equalized. Tank #2: If unvented will build pressure until equal to tank #1, if vented it will fill after the point of dysplasia pressure is reached and all new liquid will be forced to tank #2 and the trapped air will be trapped at the top of tank #1.
VENT THE TANKS. The rupture pressure of the tanks, or leaks in fittings, in use could be reached before they fill with sap. The vented tank will be much less prone to premature failure. The best way to connect the tanks would be to have a valve on each tank at its drain and connect a tee. then connect the tanks by way of the tees, with a valve between the two tanks, and the sap supply to the tee of tank #1. Then add a valve after tank #2 tee to isolate the tanks supply line. This method will allow isolation of each tank from the line of supply and for #1 to fill while #2 is used to draw from. In the event that you would want to fill #2 while drawing #1...this gets alittle more complicated but: connect a y to the supply line before tank #1 with a valve between the tee of tank #1 and the y. The riser part of the y will then be connect to a tee that will be between tank #2 and its shut of valve. Be sure to place a valve on top of the tee to totally isolate tank #2. Also make certain that all valves are placed so that all sap is able to drain out of the lines so as to be more clean and not pool and sour. If using pvc the use of a tee and a threaded female adapter will accept a male plug; that can be removed to run a rod brush to clean the piping as needed. At the tee of the tanks to the supply line a 4 way cross can be used to have a cleaning cap to run a brush into the tank fill lines and isolation valve. I will draw this up and post the drawing later.

Ben

[maple flats]

Al of my tanks are not capable of building any pressure. No diary tank that I know of will give a pressure issue. Even a Surge Vacuum tank will only seal on vacuum and will vent on pressure. Maybe some SS tanks from other industries might pressurize. Even the plastic tanks vent, except the IBC's (caged totes). If their caps are real tight they may pressurize.

[BreezyHill]

I sell gvm tanks for our liquid feed business. There are a lot of tanks with NV options and NV lids. One must always check to be certain that a vented lid was not switched for a NV lid. One of our 3000 gallon tanks has blown a lid and the thread plat out when the vent got plugged by a wasp nest. I will see if I can find that pic of the bulk tank that collapsed when the pump emptied the tank faster than the vent could handle. The top caved in. In 25 years I ruptured 5 tanks that were" vented" due to pressure issues and have had two spills with semis loading at our mill. Cage Tanks pressurize unless they have been modified. DOT does not allow the transportation of vented tanks in Dry vans for many years now. Mueller BMT has a NV option as does Boumatic. Many of the newer tanks can only release around the agitator bushing that has a water resistant seal for wash down. Most tanks need to have lids released when milking and emptying. Never assume...always check vents annually before use. It really sucks when they blow apart or lids go flying.

[maple flats]

Sorry, I hadn't realized. Must be my tanks are older. The lids just set on and have no seal, except my Surge vacuum tank. That could seal on vacuum but the lids just set on the tank with a fat gasket seal that by design could never pressurize, just vacuum seal. I should have realized there are many designs I've not seen.

[syrup2nv]

My tanks are open top maple tanks.

[BreezyHill]

Open top are much easier, but think about making a cover. It wont be long and all tanks will have to be covered, open grain bins are fineable by FDA now; and if there is any animal waste or animal foreign matter they can condemn the contents.
Flats...No Worries mate! I just hate to see somebody make the same mistakes I have made. My surge zero is like yours but there are many models that have a clasp on the lid to lock them down. I have a 300 leg that has a 1/4" vent and I have to be careful when using that tank it expands on filling and warps when draining by gravity. That's a older Snyder tank. Vent in the lid so it is DOT approved for trucks. In our area sherrifs and dot are really putting the screws to trucks. Need to see what the gallonage restriction on a tank endorsement is for a license, now that they changed things again. As a farm and owner operator we were exempt from the health card system. Now I have to carry the bingo card all the time.

[syrup2nv]

Breezy,

Made a cover out of 2x2 wood frame then wrapped it with metal roofing. Pitched, with my double horizontal extractor covered also. Adding a second tank this year, it will be covered as well. Most likely a flat cover though.

[BreezyHill]

Perfect!
When given lemons...trade some for apples, lemonade gets old. lol

Old tappers never die...They just move to a new bush.