flat pan design

[Aaron S]

Hi, I'm new to this but I have read a lot of the home made section and still have a couple questions about a flat pan with dividers.
on a 2 by 4 flat pan I usually see 3 sections ( 2 dividers ) running lengthway. would more be better ? should the last section be narrower ? what about running dividers width way ? the openings at the divider ends are how high 1 1/2 ". If the sap level should be only 1" to 2" does that mean the opening should be above the level of the sap in the pan.... I know thats a lot but I don't want to build something wrong. Hoping to get one made locally so I could really use some advice.
Thanks
Aaron S

[PerryW]

Hi, I'm new to this but I have read a lot of the home made section and still have a couple questions about a flat pan with dividers.
on a 2 by 4 flat pan I usually see 3 sections ( 2 dividers ) running lengthway. would more be better ? should the last section be narrower ? what about running dividers width way ? the openings at the divider ends are how high 1 1/2 ". If the sap level should be only 1" to 2" does that mean the opening should be above the level of the sap in the pan.... I know thats a lot but I don't want to build something wrong. Hoping to get one made locally so I could really use some advice.
Thanks
Aaron S

I would think you could run the dividers either way, in fact, running them the width-way, would allow to feed sap in the back of the pan and draw off at the front. I would keep all sections the same width. The cutout openings at the divider ends are usually 3-4 inches high.

[Aaron S]

I agree with you about running width way. It would work better for my design anyway. However it concerns me that I've almost never seen anyone run it like that. Only only one commercially made one i found was made like that ( if I can find it online ill post it ) do you think their is a reason for that. Thanks again for your help.
Aaron S

[Bernie/MA]

I made a 2x4 flat pan that works really well. I put 2 dividers crossways at the back 8" apart, then put 3 dividers lengthways 6" apart making 4 front sections 6x32. I made the openings so that the drawoff is at the center of one side near the backside of the firebox. It was for my son-in-law and he probably has pics I could send to your phone or email.

[Aaron S]

Wow, if you could send those images to spencerjunior@hotmail.com I'm getting a 4 by 8 sheet ss 304 grade and trying to get the most of it.
Thanks

[Big_Eddy]

7962

Here are some sketches I did up a while back for a guy showing options to make a flat pan from a 4x4 or 4x6 piece of stainless. Hope it helps.

The 4x4 design requires more welding. The 4x6 design requires the ability to bend the 8" box ends up, and reduces welding. If you follow my Flat Pan link below - you'll see how I bent the 8" sides up on mine, plus the tools etc needed to make your own.

[Aaron S]

Thanks for your posts and emails. I am going to post a picture soon of my idea and was hoping to get all your opinions.
Thanks again
Aaron Spencer

[Aaron S]

Hay guys
I'm posting a couple pictures of my design for suggestions. It's a 4 by 8 sheet of 18 Gauge SS. Flat pan 2' 8.5" wide by 4' 9.25" long. That is using all the ss with very little waste. It would have 3 dividers in back 11" wide by 23.25" long. The front section would be 34" long with 3 dividers 11" wide. The dividers have 4" triangle cut out (big enough ?) The images show how the sheet is to be cut out and the other shows the dividers and sizes. I will have 120 taps this year with a potential of 180 plus next year. The top of the pan will have a 3/4 inch fold all around the top and on the dividers top also. I would put a 1/2 ball valve output to draw off. Planing on using a block arch, then maybe make something more permanent next year. Any questions, suggestions: good, bad and ugly would be very much appreciated. Don't worry about feelings, I have big shoulders.
Aaron Spencer 79897990

[SeanD]

I did something similar when I made my pans.

I'd recommend you factor in an extra 1/2"-3/4" to the bottoms of your dividers. You'll fold those over on a 90 deg. so that the bottom of the divider sits flat on the bottom of the pan. You'll need that little extra bit of material for welding them in. I spot welded mine, but others have done a continuous bead. You'd have to be pretty good at welding stainless for that, but with 18 ga. steel, you have some forgiveness.

The 4" triangle is plenty big. I have a 2"x2" square cut outs. The nice thing about the vertical cut is I can see the depth of each channel at a glance.

Go with a 3/4" valve or 1". You can always slow down the draw on a 1" valve, but you can't speed up a 1/2" after it's wide open. If you have to pull syrup off in a hurry, it's good to have that option.

120 taps on a flat 2x4 means a lot of boiling. You'll probably average around 10 gph once you get the hang of getting the fire going, so that means 12-hour days of boiling EVERY day and don't forget to factor in time to collect.

Keep the questions coming. The folks here helped me out immensely.

Sean

[Big_Eddy]

Sean covered most of my points.
2x4 for 120 taps is okay in my opinion - You'll have some long boils, but around here at least you would be able to keep up. I ran a 2x3 with 100 taps for 20+ years (with a full time job) and only dumped sap on rare occasions.

I agree on the valve size. 1/2" is too small. Try to set your valve opening as low as possible on the side wall - or better still, add a little drop box to the side. That way you can get more of the syrup out without having to lift or tip the pans.

Have fun bending 18 gauge. I'd recommend 20 or 22 if you can get it welded. You don't need the extra thickness or stiffness. It just adds cost and weight and will actually reduce your evaporation rate. Never mind the effort required for a 4' fold.