Wet/dry end end

[Maplewalnut]

Ok, I bit the bullet and bought a 3000 ft roll of 1 inch black pipe from a lumber company going out of business. Price was insanely cheap and couldnt resist. Plan now is to do a wet/dry set up. Not going to be text book design, at least not this year but figured its better than nothing. In most cases it will be 1inch over 1inch with 3/4 trunk lines. I think I am going with the whip system so no discussion needed there. However my existing main ends at a sap ladder (which then extends and picks up another 50 taps to the real end). How do I end my new dry line or can I jump the sap ladder and extend it further?

I will have about 700 taps altogether on this system

thanks
Mike

[Thompson's Tree Farm]

Don't go past the ladder with the dry line

[Moser's Maple]

I would end it with a booster and sap ladder line going into that

[Maplewalnut]

Jake

Not sure I understand. Right now I have a single wet line, which ends 12 feet off the ground at the top of a sap ladder. The bottom of the ladder technically extends the single wet line another 300 feet or so to pick up additional taps. So would I just ruin the dry line just before the star fitting on the sap ladder and T them together?

Mike

[spud]

Jake

Not sure I understand. Right now I have a single wet line, which ends 12 feet off the ground at the top of a sap ladder. The bottom of the ladder technically extends the single wet line another 300 feet or so to pick up additional taps. So would I just ruin the dry line just before the star fitting on the sap ladder and T them together?

Mike

Yes I think that would be the best thing to do. A booster would be great right before the star only if the line feeding the booster had no taps on it. It sounds like your main has taps on it before it turns to a sap ladder.

Sap

[BreezyHill]

The use of a booster will not boost the vacuum just smooth out sap surges. As long as using a correctly sized main it will not benefit the ladder since the ladder will have fairly consistent flow.
Dryline after the ladder would negate the use of a leaker, used to expedite sap flow thru the ladder, thus making the ladder work poorly.

Tee dry at ladder top will provide best vacuum and allow sap to go thru dryline if wet freezes or is full.

Ben

[Moser's Maple]

The use of a booster will not boost the vacuum just smooth out sap surges. As long as using a correctly sized main it will not benefit the ladder since the ladder will have fairly consistent flow.
Dryline after the ladder would negate the use of a leaker, used to expedite sap flow thru the ladder, thus making the ladder work poorly.

Tee dry at ladder top will provide best vacuum and allow sap to go thru dryline if wet freezes or is full.

Ben

wasn't looking to boost the vacuum level...........just wanted to stabilize the vacuum before the ladder, plus if using a wet/dry set up a booster...either bought or homemade is a great way to end the went/dry to transition into just your wet main lateral that feeds the ladder

[BreezyHill]

wasn't looking to boost the vacuum level...........just wanted to stabilize the vacuum before the ladder, plus if using a wet/dry set up a booster...either bought or homemade is a great way to end the went/dry to transition into just your wet main lateral that feeds the ladder

A booster that feeds a ladder would be counter productive when using leakers. The leaker introduces a micro bubble into the sap stream to create turbulence that will aid in lifting the sap thru the ladder. One inch of vacuum will lift sap approx. 12", while it will lift air infinitely. Thus the bubbles speed the sap lifting thru the ladders. Since a booster would separate the bubbles this would be undesirable prior to a ladder. The use of a booster after all ladders in the mainline would be productive for better sap flow and vac transferal.
I would place the booster at an elevation that it could be checked easily, rather than at the lifted end of the ladder if that is what you meant.

Sorry if I wasn't clear before.
Ben