Adjusting Density?

[MapleMark753]

Hello-- Hoping that others will share what they do, and how they do it as far as adjusting the density of their syrup to final brix. I don't have 20 years of experience, but did boil and finish small batches of syrup every day this season, and it was time consuming and a challenge to get it just so every time. We have digital thermometers, hydrometer, and a refractometer, and used all of em. Maybe just time and experience will show what works good for us, but I'd like to hear what others do and learn from that. thanks, Mark

[maple flats]

I try to draw it off the evaporator very slightly too dense. Usually that works. I run a constant draw as much as possible and do it by the thermometer without checking the boiling temperature that day. Doing constant draw calls for monitoring and adjusting. I start to draw at +7 and watch. if it raises to +8 or 9 I open the valve slightly more. In the end after drawing this way, I've always had enough that went above so my 20-25 gal drawn batch is very slightly too dense. Then I heat it to 210+/-5, adjust density by adding sap (or distilled or permeate water) and stir until it tests right. Then it goes to the filter press and to the canner or a barrel. I re check density but almost never need further adjustment to density.
If you are doing real small batches, combine a few that are the same grade and adjust the larger batch by either boiling more or adding distilled water as needed. I find thinning works better than further boiling as it is much quicker to get it right. I use a Accu-cup by the Maple Guys to test. Never drop the hydrometer in the syrup being tested and using an Accu-cup along with the temperature chart it comes with allows you to test at lower temperatures if thinning is what you need. If boiling is what you need, just fill the Accu-cup 2 or 3 times, dumping it back into the pot to pre heat the cup, then draw and as soon as the temperature stabilizes get a reading of density and temp to refer to the chart.

[brookledge]

I use a barometer. Keep it next to the autodraw off. I pump the syrup from the drawoff pail to the finishing pan. I usually boil 3 hours plus or minus. So I will heat the syrup up to 211 ajust final density and then run it through the press. By the time the syrup goes into the kegs that I use it is still over 185 so it is hot packed. I don't know yoursize of operation. Everybody likes to find there own way to do it. So many factors like the type of filtering you use, the amount ofsyrup you make a day, the size of your filter tanks etc.
For me I'd rather filter it and bottle it before it cools down and then have to use propane to reheat it from being cold. Plus if your syrup is close to a grade you could lose a grade reheating.
Keith

[PerryW]

For every tenth of a point (on the Baume scale) that your syrup is too high...

Add 3/5 of an ounce of water per gallon of syrup.

Example: If you have 5 gallons of syrup that is 1 point Baume too thick, add 5 x (3/5) X 10 - 30 oz of water

[nymapleguy607]

I usually have batches around 1-1/2 gallons. I draw off and filter the syrup through a cone filter right off the evaporator if I fill a batch by the end of the night I will adjust the density. The way I adjust the density is:
1. Check the brix reading of the syrup to be adjusted. (My draw off pots are tall enough so my hydrometer will float in the pot as I adjust the density)
2. Check the temperature of the syrup to be adjusted.( I use a digital candy thermometer that reads to a tenth of a degree. Mine clips to the side of the pot)
3. Check the temperature to brix correction in the maple producers manual and add or subtract from the brix reading on your hydrometer.
4. I like my finished syrup to be at 66.5 brix so I will then add hot distilled water off my preheater to thin the syrup to 66.5 brix. (You can calculate the exact amount of water you need but I don't)
5. Add the water in small amounts and stir the syrup well between. Make sure to check the temp and the brix of the syrup each time you add water.
This is what works for me, it takes some practice but take it slow and add your water in small amounts and you should get good results.

[MapleMark753]

Hello-- Thanks much for the comments and thoughts. It figures, I had done it the opposite way...taking it off before it was the right brix, and then adjusting it upward by boiling more. I like the idea of starting just a tad too high, and then adjusting down. Seems easier and taking less time too. I had just thought that: you cook a steak too long, you got a hockey puck; you cook eggs too long you got rubber, etc... So, along with adjusting down just a little bit, I think we'll do both the hydrometer and the electronic refractomer at first this next year, and then switch to mainly just one of those, with the other for confirmation/backup. We are a very small operation here, but growing. Currently have just done about 2 gallons a day of syrup, although the capacity is there for 10 times that tree wise. take care, Mark

[PerryFamily]

I adjusted right after I draw (1-2 gallons) with hot sap from the flue pan. Then in with the DE , through the press and into the canner, 5 gal or barrel.
I have wondered about density at different temperatures , say cold in the canner from the night before? Is there a chart or something for this ? Where would I find it? Thanks.

[jrgagne99]

For every tenth of a point (on the Baume scale) that your syrup is too high...

Add 3/5 of an ounce of water per gallon of syrup.

Example: If you have 5 gallons of syrup that is 1 point Baume too thick, add 5 x (3/5) X 10 - 30 oz of water

This works out to about 1/3 of a cup of water, per gallon, per Brix heavy. I always draw 1-2 brix heavy and once the canner is full, I dilute with water from the steam-away. Since my canner holds about 3 gallons full, my ratio is easy- 1 cup per Brix. I usually get the density right in one dilution try.

[maple flats]

There is a formula. It can be found in the North American Maple Syrup Producer's Manual, in the chapter on adjusting density. That formula is what the chart that comes with an Accu-cup is based on.

[SeanD]

I use the chart on page 169 of the North American Maple Syrup Producer's Manual and it is uncanny how dead on that thing is. I am usually all over the map with my density, but once I adjust to temperature I use that chart and hit it exactly right every time. There have been times the syrup is so heavy, it has called for so much water for correction, I've doubted it can be right. So I'd only do part of the water. Then after rechecking, I'm still heavy. I added a little more water, checked again, mare water, checked again, and sure enough, it was right on with the original amount of water called for.

My goal is to have syrup that's just a point or so high, but sometimes I really miss. That chart has saved some crazy high batches for me.

Sean

[jrgagne99]

Formulas and tables are a pain when you're dog tired bottling at 11pm in the steam and the heat. Rules of thumb are easy to remember. Once you bring it up to bottling temperature, 185F "syrup" should be 60 Brix. If you are heavy, dilute with 1/3 cup of water, per gallon, per brix heavy. Couldn't be any simpler.