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mnmaple
04-29-2013, 01:02 PM
Just finished building my oil tank evaporator last week, and boiled our first batch of sap down on saturday. We boiled down about 80 gallons of sap. From a cold start to drawing off an almost finished product , with no preheater, the 80 gallons took us 8 hours to boil down. The first 2 hours, the evaporation rate was pretty slow, getting things up to temp, and figuring out the firing schedule but by hours 3-6 we were boiling down at a pretty good rate.

Description of the evaporator: Roughly 60" long x 26" wide. 4 steam pans dropped down inside. 11' tall stack out the back of the tank. I don't have any fire brick in it, just some concrete pavers and brick set inside with lots of gaps going to bare metal. Nothing is cut to fit, just whole paver and bricks, using what we had in the time we had to do it in. I would like to line it with ceramic blanket and fire brick to seal it all up, but that is for another year.

I have to place the wood, real close to the door to get the 1st pan boiling, the 2nd and 3rd pans boil hard, no matter what. The last pan, the 4th one, hardly boils at all. What is causing the last pan to not boil very hard, and what can I do to get a better boil on the last pan? I have a theory, no idea on the validity of it, that possibly the fire and hot gasses are just running out of the back so fast and up the pipe, that I am not getting optimal heat transfer. Can I place some bricks inside to make the fire and gas move around a few objects to keep it under the pans longer before it leaves out the stack? Or would that just reduce the draft and cause other problems.

Is the angle of my arch on the inside causing my problems? The firebox is about 20" long, then the arch angles back, then levels out for about 30" to the back of the evaporator with about 3 inches between the brick and the bottom of the pans. Should I have angled the entire arch as it works its way up the stack pipe instead bringing it to level and then running back? Would that have brought more heat directly to the back pan?

I don't have any pictures right now to help show what it looks like, but I would like any input through your experience in making the evaporator perform better, or your help in fixing a design/build flaw.

Thanks

backyard sugaring
04-29-2013, 09:23 PM
Insulation will be a big help, also close your ramp up so it is equal to the area of your flue pipe. The most you will boil off using a flat pan is 1 gallon a hour per sq foot of pan you have. If you close the back of the ramp to 3/4 of an inch you will see some improvement. Good Luck Lee

mnmaple
04-30-2013, 09:43 PM
Can you explain closing your ramp so it equal to the area of your flue pipe? Can you also elaborate on closing the back off to 3/4 of an inch? Do you mean 3/4 of an inch between the bricks and the bottom of the pan?

Thanks

SevenCreeksSap
05-02-2013, 08:32 PM
I don't know BYS,I have a 2x8 flat pan ( 16 square feet,right?) and was boiling off a measurable 20 gallons per hour under a good boil, and sometimes up to 22. Really curious if that is a scientific measurable fact or maple sugaring lore, urban bush myth if you will.

MNM, I think he is saying 3/4 between the bricks and the pan. that may help in your situation. you may be losing some by the fire going up and between the pans and swirling around? Maybe? I have the same problem getting the very front of my front pan to boil hard, since the flames are in the middle of the firebox and going to the rear. the flat pan in back though gets boiling all the way back and I have a 6in stack - 10 ft tall- and 2 inches between bricks and bottom of pan. tightening that up and adding some arch blanket will keep your heat in. arch blanket almost doubled my boil rate this year. covered the whole inside and now can actually touch the sides without third degree burns.

Super Sapper
05-03-2013, 07:58 AM
The area under your pan needs to equal the square inches of your flue pipe. If you have an 8 inch stack your will need 50.24 (4 X 4 X 3.12) square inches, if you have a 6 inch stack you will need 28.26 (3 X 3 X3.14) square inches. So with an 8 inch stack your will need 50.24 (28.26 for a 6 inch) divided by your width to get the amount of space needed under your flue pan. Any less and your will restrict your draft, if you have more you will loose heat out the stack.

chicken123
05-03-2013, 09:59 AM
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The area under your pan needs to equal the square inches of your flue pipe. If you have an 8 inch stack your will need 50.24 (4 X 4 X 3.12) square inches, if you have a 6 inch stack you will need 28.26 (3 X 3 X3.14) square inches. So with an 8 inch stack your will need 50.24 (28.26 for a 6 inch) divided by your width to get the amount of space needed under your flue pan. Any less and your will restrict your draft, if you have more you will loose heat out the stack.

is it the same with a flat pan?

Super Sapper
05-03-2013, 08:45 PM
Yes, if you have less area under your pans than the stack you are restricting the air flow. It would be the same as closing a damper in the stack.

backyard sugaring
05-03-2013, 09:05 PM
Sorry, My mistake it should have said 1 3/4 inches that is what I have. Look for ceramic insulation at an art supply place it is cheaper and is rated for 2500 degrees. Good Luck. Lee

backyard sugaring
05-03-2013, 09:11 PM
Sevencreeksap, Not sure where I read that about flat pans somewhere on this site. Are you preheating your sap? 22 gallons a hour on a flat pan is really good. Just think 10 more months and it will be sugaring season again. Lee