2x6 airtight front or gasification arch

[mountain man maple]

I am looking to upgrade my evaporator setup with either a airtight front or build a new arch. Has anyone done both? Is there much to be gained with a airtight front or do you gain a lot more with gasification. Last two years I have run arch with ceramic insulation. Big improvement over firebrick. Now I am hoping to get into mid 40's evaporation rate. Is this possible on Grimm raised flue?

[Flat Lander Sugaring]

yes on all 3, A couple times this year when I didnt care about efficiency, when my ro was filling my head tank, the site glass didnt go any higher once I started stoking it every 5 minutes like I used too. I did mid 40 last year without the gasification. so I figure the same or more those couple nights this year.
you need the airtight front for the gasification

[PerryFamily]

I re-skinned my 2x6 in stainless last year and insulated with arch board and half brick. This year I installed a blower, which is way to big, so I slowed it down and restricted the air as much as possible. I figure I am in the 45gph range. There is so much steam you cant see into the pans at all. The blower has made a huge difference but the non-air tight doors suck. I re-insulate the doors every other boil and it is a pain in the a@#.I had flames at times all around the doors!! I am going to price out a true air tight arch at the open houses. Maybe I can get a few more seasons on the 2x6 before I need to go bigger. I ran 1100 on it with an RO last year but have permission to tap another 800 or so plus adding vac to at least half . I might be pushing my luck with the 2x6!

[mountain man maple]

To gain much from airtight front I assume I will have to seal off underneath grates. Right now its up on blocks and not much stops blower from blower out rather than up. I've noticed on a gasification arch there is no ramp just a vertical wall. With the ramp in my arch would aof work or do you need that vertical wall in back.

[nymapleguy607]

You really need the vertical wall because it gives you more space in the firebox so the AOF can mix and reignite the unburned gases. AOF can work in a traditional arch it just wont be as effective

[RyanB]

I am still confused at what most on here are refering to a Gasification arch! AOF isn't a true gasification although it is burning most of the unburnt gasses, it is not reaching the full potential of true gassification. I have had the oportunity to have a look at a Force5 which is what Lapierre states is a true gasifier, but when comparing their arch to a gasification boiler there is no secondary burn chamber that is capable of burning the exaust gasses at temps over 2000 degree's. What I do know is there is some sort of heat exchanger that is heating the incoming air to the arch. What I am curious about is if by super heating this incoming air, if they are then able to have the multiple burn chambers seen in the boilers all in the one area of the arch? Lapierre also states that the arch requires much larger of wood and actually requires the moisture content to be above 20 percent which will produce more wood gasses than much dryer material.

Are arch designs in this manner really causing 100% gassification?

Ryan

[Flat Lander Sugaring]

I am still confused at what most on here are refering to a Gasification arch! AOF isn't a true gasification although it is burning most of the unburnt gasses, it is not reaching the full potential of true gassification. I have had the oportunity to have a look at a Force5 which is what Lapierre states is a true gasifier, but when comparing their arch to a gasification boiler there is no secondary burn chamber that is capable of burning the exaust gasses at temps over 2000 degree's. What I do know is there is some sort of heat exchanger that is heating the incoming air to the arch. What I am curious about is if by super heating this incoming air, if they are then able to have the multiple burn chambers seen in the boilers all in the one area of the arch? Lapierre also states that the arch requires much larger of wood and actually requires the moisture content to be above 20 percent which will produce more wood gasses than much dryer material.

Are arch designs in this manner really causing 100% gassification?

Ryan
what you need for gasification to happen are temperatures over 1300 deg F ( in the articles I have read). I wasnt able to buy the temp probes this year but the transfer area from me heating up the AOF you couldnt touch. I used to have a black cloud over sugar house all the time before I added the AOF and now if I fire with efficiency in mind very little if any which means I am burning those gases which is the idea. I use to take out couple wheel barrels full of ash on 3 cords, I'm going to clean out the pit this week I might have one after 5 cords of wood

Im not going to start splitting hairs here but if I can come close to or accomplish a gasification arch and that means I'm helping with my carbon foot print I'm happy.
here are some pics of mine
http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?17614-New-Arch-Build photo bucket is messed up link not working

[lpakiz]

I built an Intensofire clone and put a temp probe under the flue pan about 2 feet back from the rear wall of the combustion chamber. That probe routinely reads 1600 to 1800 degrees, while we hold the stack temp at 800. It will smoke black for a minute after we load, then it clears up. I am assuming that we are absorbing approx 1000 degrees of heat between the front probe and the stack probe. This is on a 2X8 drop flue pan. I trust the accuracy, as both probes read within 2-4 degrees of each other when the rig is stone cold.

[Flat Lander Sugaring]

I built an Intensofire clone and put a temp probe under the flue pan about 2 feet back from the rear wall of the combustion chamber. That probe routinely reads 1600 to 1800 degrees, while we hold the stack temp at 800. It will smoke black for a minute after we load, then it clears up. I am assuming that we are absorbing approx 1000 degrees of heat between the front probe and the stack probe. This is on a 2X8 drop flue pan. I trust the accuracy, as both probes read within 2-4 degrees of each other when the rig is stone cold.

have you ever checked the temp at the door?

[lpakiz]

Not at the door. That would require an access point, which almost has to be built in when the refractory is poured. Could be done, tho, just never thought of it putting one there. Now the door is a double layered door, which receives air from the hollow door hinges, so the outer skin is "cooler" than the inside. Still very hot, tho. It is insulated with 2 layers of ceramic blanket facing the fire.