New arch build 2013

[ohio sugar]

I've been using this great site for years collecting as much info as I can. Any time I had a question I could count on this site for the answer. Thanks to all who provide their knowledge.

This is my second year. My first year I had 2 taps and produced a gallon of syrup which ultimately crystallized due to over boiling. This year I have 6 taps and have produced almost 2 gallons so far. I posted some pics in the syrup forum.

Anyway, I decided that propane is way too expensive and my setup takes way too long if I'm ever going to expand. So I've decided to do what many of you have done and build bigger. I'm using Davey Jones' plans and had friend weld for me. Still have a ways to go and I'll post updates as I go if anyone wants to check them out. Thanks for looking!



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[TreeTapper2]

This looks like it will be real nice. Is that a door from a wood burner? What size pan are you looking at?

[ohio sugar]

Thanks. The door is from a barrel stove kit I bought from menard's. I am planning on getting a 2x4 pan built some time soon (hopefully).

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[huntingken111]

Looks good dont forget on ramp to leave clearance for insulation and bricks

[TreeTapper2]

Ohio, how many taps you plan on feeding your arch?

[ohio sugar]

Ken. I plan on using a flat pan so I should have plenty of clearance. Although I wish I would've left more room in case I change my mind! And now that I think about it, I planned on having the stack come out the back which will pose an issue with the insul and brick. :(

TreeTapper. I wont be using this arch until next year. I hope to have at least 50 taps by then.

[bradley153]

Ohio, I built a arch that looks almost identical. make sure to put a combustion air blower on it cause the vents on your door will not be enough. also make sure you put a piece of cermaic blanket on the door of it WILL warp!! I drilled 5 holes 4 along the edges and 1 in th middle to hold the blanket in place.

[ohio sugar]

Bradley, Do you have any pictures of your design that you wouldn't mind sharing. It would be nice to see a similar build that is already complete. Thanks!

Edit: I found your build thread. Great looking rig! Are you still using it? Anything you change/add on the design? Thanks again.

[Troutman10]

OS,
That looks great so far! Excited to see what the finished product looks like. Just curious how much have you put in to it so far? My options are open to something similar in the future.

[ohio sugar]

OS,
That looks great so far! Excited to see what the finished product looks like. Just curious how much have you put in to it so far? My options are open to something similar in the future.
Thanks Troutman. I have been able to get all the material for free so far so I have no idea how much it would have cost. My dad had all the material for what you see just laying around and was nice enough to donate it!
The door was part of a barrel stove kit I picked up from Menards. Here's the link: Vogelzang Barrel Stove Kit (http://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/stoves-add-on-furnaces/stove-accessories/vogelzang-barrel-stove-kit/p-1635516-c-6881.htm)

I'll post more pics as I progress.

[ohio sugar]

Here's some more pics. Got my pan! It's 2x4 with 8" sides.

I wanted to use the stovepipe adapter that came with the barrel kit but it hss a rounded design to fit on top of a barrel. So I cut out the section of the barrel and welded it to some 14 gauge. I hope the 6" pipe isn't too restrictive. Any thoughts on the possible draft issues with this design? I will eventually have some kind of forced air.

It's getting there. I have a lot of grinding snd then paint.

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[huntingken111]

What are the eight inch side for if you dont mind me asking. I made mine out of an old oil tank so the six inch kit you bought worked perfect for me when I mounted my chimney on top of rounded part of tank. I agree with the comment to put insulation on door because I didnt and my door is warping. I put clean out door on bottom of mine and run a $5 fan thru that it makes a huge difference in heat will upgrade to squirrel fan next year because I'll be going to bigger pan. Also on the chimney part just go buy a 6 to 8 inch converter so you can use 8 inch stove pipe. Looks good though keep us updated

[ohio sugar]

Ken. I figure bigger is better on side height to eliminate boil over. Might be overkill but.......


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[harrison6jd]

very interesting stack mount. way to think outside the box. looks like it will work fine and its adjustable with the damper. very neat!

[huntingken111]

Smart thinking on height my new pan I want 9 inch depth but not sure now because the pan I have now is only 6 inches deep but I found best depth for boil is only one inch depth so I dont know if 9 inches will be to much Also to let you know the built in damper helps keep some more heat in

[ohio sugar]

I need to get a ball valve for the draw-off on my new pan. Is there anything special I need to look for or will a standard 3/4" copper valve work? I looked into the push-on fittings (sharkbite) but they are only rated to 180 degrees.

Also, how do I seal the threads of the fitting? Do I use teflon tape?

Thanks!

[b116757]

Use the Teflon tape brass fittings will work just make sure whatever valve you end up using it has PTFE valve seats they will handle the heat I have many ball valves inservice all with the PTFE seats never had a problem with them.

[Waynehere]

" I hope the 6" pipe isn't too restrictive. Any thoughts on the possible draft issues with this design? I will eventually have some kind of forced air."

I would remove the dampener. Most arches are designed to control air flow from the front of your arch. The more air you can move through this type of arch, the hotter your fire, the faster your boil. Yes you will go through more wood, but I guess if you don't mind sitting there watching it simmer??? :)

Nice looking rig though.

[ohio sugar]

First run on the new rig last Saturday and it worked great. Boiled 70+ gallons in about 9 hours so I was right around 8 gallons/hr. And that was without even having an ash door for air. I guess that's on track for a 2x4.

I used 3.5 inch roxul for insulation that worked awesome. I still need to add brick to protect it from the logs but it held up great otherwise.

Improvements for next year:
Add ash door and forced air.
Finish some welding and paint.
Add firebrick
And probably more as I go!

[ohio sugar]

Couple more

[MapleLady]

Nice work!

[bowhunter]

You might want to add more stack. They recommend 2 ft for every foot of pan length and a little more won't hurt it. More stack along with the ash door should get a little more capacity before thinking about adding force draft. The stack will create more natural draft which is also pretty effective. At 8 GPD hour you're off to a great start.

[ohio sugar]

I too thought for sure I would need more stack height to get a good draft but was surprised at how strong the draft was. The fire was coming out the top of the pipe! The small section that I have on there has a hood on it that says draft hood. I don't know if that's the purpose of it or if it even helped but I had good draft, hot fire and absolutely no smoke. I will probably add more height next year to see if it helps any more.

[ohio sugar]

Any suggestions on a paint that can withstand high temps?

[maple brew]

ohio sugar

Nice setup! Looks like were taping the same county though I took this year off with just moving out to Pittsfield. I'll be right behind you this summer with a new build. Have you considered powder coating for the paint? Use a small fire on a hot summer day and a laser thermoneter.. Just a suggestion

[acerrubrum]

I used black barbecue paint on mine. Still holding up just fine.

[ohio sugar]

I thought about the barbecue paint but I may look into the powder coat. Thanks for the suggestions.