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moscowmule
03-08-2013, 05:42 PM
hi all. so this is my first year using a hydrometer. i've found it has so far been easiest to not even use the thing when im drawing off, but go a little on the heavy syrup side and do and add a little water later when i am bottling after doing a 'room temperature 60 degree' cold hydrometer test.

however for various reasons, sometimes i am doing hot tests on the stove at home. my question is this; if i am bringing it up to 211 degrees and then poring it into the hydrometer cup it seems like it cools a couple degrees by the time i get the cup full with a ladle and the hydrometer in it. how much is the accuracy of the hydrometer going to be jeopardized if the syrup is slightly cooler than 211 degrees? i cant seem to get it ABOVE 211 degrees to compensate for this heat lose, because at 211 it begins to foam over and i have to bring the heat down. perhaps defoamer would fix this?

thanks
cory

markct
03-08-2013, 06:04 PM
I usualy check it at whatever temp it happens to be at, much easier to look at the temp compensation chart than try and make the temp exactly 211

wnybassman
03-08-2013, 06:36 PM
If your "near syrup" is boiling at 211º you may want to check your thermometer, unless you live on the top of a mountain. lol

Generally, syrup is roughly 217º to 220º+ and that 211º test number is as estimated drop in temp from the pan to the cup. Like you said, you lose a few degrees, but you are supposed to. But I think you should be starting at a higher temp to begin with.

wiam
03-08-2013, 06:40 PM
http://www.leaderevaporator.com/pdf_files/syrup-hydrometer.pdf

This tells a lot about it and has a temp correction chart

Burnt sap
03-09-2013, 07:42 AM
Quick fix put test cup in boiling sap/water or sap side of pan so the test cup is at 200+ degrees. This will make the reading a bit closer to the mark. Hope that helps.

Dennis H.
03-09-2013, 08:24 AM
You need the chart that shows what the hydrometer will read at different temps.
I finish my syrup in a steam pan on the stove nd I let the test cup sit in the syrup to keep warm, I'll also set the hydrometer in there about a minute right before testing.
If you are drawing your syrup off heavy there is no need to run the syrup up to 211. I was told the 211 mark is used when the syrup is boiling at say 219, it takes into account the cool down time by the time you get the hydrometer in the test cup nd it is settled and not bouncing.

happy thoughts
03-09-2013, 08:39 AM
Just throwing this out for comment since I don't own a hydrometer and is just a thought. Expanding on what Dennis said- why can't you just read density at cold temp and dilute with the same temp of fresh sap (or distilled water) to proper density. Then just bring it up to bottling temp and be done with it?

happy thoughts
03-09-2013, 10:32 AM
moscow- disregard my last post because i went back and reread your question. Correcting for temp seems like the simple solution. But what I don't understand is why you're only heating to 211F on the stove. If foam is a problem that should be easy enough to skim off or push to the side so you can get to the syrup for sampling. Just bring the syrup to a higher temp before testing. Or am I still missing something?

Burnt sap
03-10-2013, 07:37 AM
Thanks william I have been looking for a replacement since I lost mine. Ahhhhh the power of the internet.

PerryW
03-10-2013, 10:15 PM
If you are reheating syrup, I don't think need to heat it all the way up to 211 deg. I heat mine to just under 200 degrees. (heating over 200 degrees promotes the formation of more sugar sand).

During the heating process, I check the temp, then use the temperature compensation chart and formula to determine the correct amount of water to add to bring the syrup to the correct density. I usually wait until the syrup is above 120 degrees (to check density) as the syrup to too viscous at temperatures below that to read accurately. Once standardized, I heat to just under 200, reflilter, and continue filling jugs until the temp drops below 185.

moscowmule
03-12-2013, 08:31 AM
hey everybody thanks for your feedback! the temperature conversion chart really helps. it seems to me like the easiest thing is checking at room temperature and adding water. so far this year i've been just "eyeballing" it when its time to draw off and so far i've been fairly accurate. the last six gallons i drew off without a thermostat or hydrometer and when i tested them inside at room temp it was just half a degree above syrup!

my other main concern was that my idea of "room temperature" was a bit vague, but the conversion chart shows that between 50-70 degrees room there is only a difference of 1.25 degrees baume which makes me feel a lot better. thanks! cory