View Full Version : Adding divider to sink pan
Mogli
03-07-2013, 11:28 PM
Bought a 20" x 60" ss sink today off craigslist. I only have the ability to solder for this year. Is it ok to use aluminum flashing or should I use copper to add dividers?
b116757
03-08-2013, 12:16 AM
Get some stainless door kick plates at one of the big box home improvement stores they should work or go with the copper. aluminum would work I would think I'm just not a big fan of it.
Mogli
03-08-2013, 09:48 AM
I have some extra aluminum around that's the reason I asked just trying to do it as cheaply as possible this year.
Get some stainless door kick plates at one of the big box home improvement stores they should work or go with the copper. aluminum would work I would think I'm just not a big fan of it.
Mogli
03-08-2013, 10:13 AM
Also if I were to add drop tubes to this what would be the best size to avoid geysers.
Mogli
03-10-2013, 08:42 AM
Any input on the use of aluminum or which diameter copper tube works best to avoid sap geysers as people have put it. I have read through many threads and have not been able to draw any firm conclusion.
lpakiz
03-10-2013, 01:48 PM
You will never weld or solder aluminum to stainless. Bolts only, and besides, alum and SS do not co-exist very well. Corrosion starts right away.
Mogli
03-11-2013, 12:24 AM
I was wondering if there would be galvanic corrosion if I used aluminum thanks for the advice. Any input on cppoer tube size for drop tubes. I know most people say 3/4" to 1" for cost but also say it causes sap geysers.
You will never weld or solder aluminum to stainless. Bolts only, and besides, alum and SS do not co-exist very well. Corrosion starts right away.
TerryEspo
03-11-2013, 09:39 AM
Hey Mogli......
I have very much the same pan as you.
For a divider, all I did was get some 4" stainless scrap, cut them at 24" and bent the ends for a friction fit. A bit of grinding to get the bottom of the divider to fit really good and it works fine. It is not watertight, but does not mater, it works fine, keeps the sap separate.
You can clamp the divider along the side if you see it working loose.
Free or not, I would not use aluminum.
I paid $5.00 for a piece of stainless ( 8 X 24 ),, that I cut in half to make two dividers, cheap, cheap.
Hope that can help you.
Terry
Mogli
03-11-2013, 12:51 PM
Do you have any pictures of your set up. I was wondering how you dealt with the round edges on the bottom of the pan(sink) when placing and gasketing them on the arch. Thanks
Hey Mogli......
I have very much the same pan as you.
For a divider, all I did was get some 4" stainless scrap, cut them at 24" and bent the ends for a friction fit. A bit of grinding to get the bottom of the divider to fit really good and it works fine. It is not watertight, but does not mater, it works fine, keeps the sap separate.
You can clamp the divider along the side if you see it working loose.
Free or not, I would not use aluminum.
I paid $5.00 for a piece of stainless ( 8 X 24 ),, that I cut in half to make two dividers, cheap, cheap.
Hope that can help you.
Terry
TerryEspo
03-11-2013, 01:23 PM
I can take a pic and post it, when it stops raining here, lol.
The rounded corners is where I used a grinder to round the divider a bit.
Actually one corner of divider got cut away to allow my opening for sap to flow through.
I also went side to side with divider, not full length.
Like I said, not watertight, but I saw the sap stay on each side, definate color differeence with even a single divider sitting in the pan, not even clamped.
Terry
Mogli
03-11-2013, 11:20 PM
Sorry I meant to say how do place your pan on the arch. Do you have you overlap the pan a lot to get a good seal?
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.7 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.