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ennismaple
05-16-2006, 03:26 PM
I decided to start this thread instead of highjacking the one about removing & reusing fittings. Hopefully a quick description of how we do things will help someone else in setting up their bush and other people's feedback may help us refine the way we do things too!

Lew mentioned that he used to take down and put back up a lot of his lateral lines every year. We still do this with up to 3000 of our taps but now have about 1000 taps on 4-seasons line.

All our sections of bush are labelled A, B, C etc... depending on which piece of mainline it is and then each lateral line is numbered (e.g. A1, A2, A3 etc...). At one point we had almost the entire alphabet covered but we renumbered after the '98 ice storm and now we've got more laterals with the same alpha label to simplify things.

All our head trees are labelled with Tremclad Red Rust paint to correspond with the lateral line with a short arrow that points to the next tree. (The Tremclad paint was a trial & error thing and generally lasts 10 years or more!) At the next tree the arrow (more like an upside down check mark) points to the next tree with the short side of the check mark indicates which side to go around. Follow the arrows and you end up at the manifold. This may seems like overkill but when you've got 300-400 lateral lines to put up in snow that's over waist deep you don't want to waste your energy backtracking!

Of late, we've been putting up our lateral lines in the Fall because we're not getting any younger! A lot of our lateral lines are quite flat so we have to stretch them really tight. If we do it in the spring (i.e. in the snow) it can take 2-2 man crews 4 days to stretch all our lines. In the fall it only takes 2 days and if it's warm enough you can do it by yourself. Just prior to tapping the droplines are put on by warming them slightly in a thermos of water and pushing them onto the tee until just shy of the lip of the 2nd rib.

All our new taps are on 4-seasons line with Health Spiles - which is the greatest thing since sliced bread!!!

When the season's over, all the drop lines are removed (you lose 1/2"-3/4" every year) and the laterals are rolled up. A few days later we pump warm water and compressed air through every lateral until all the crud is out of them. We've got a couple of old washing machines we use to wash the droplines. A couple of hours on the agitate cycle cleans them up pretty well.

Once all the lateral lines are down we turn the vacuum pumps back on and suck water through every tap on the 4-seasons lines and cap them off onto the tee cup. We then suck hot water through the mainline by removing the plugs at the end of every section of pipe. Generally, this amounts to 5-10 gallons per section. Once all the mainlines have been cleaned we drain & wash the tanks one last time.

During the season we drain and rinse the evaporator after about every 100 gallons of syrup to help keep the colour from darkening. Every 2nd or 3rd time we'll fill the evaporator with water, bring to a boil and throw in a couple cups of baking soda. This cleans the pans quite well and does not leave any residue. Drain, rinse and you're ready for fresh sap. At the end of the year we fill the pans with sap and let it sit until you can't walk past the sugar camp without the smell turning your stomach (which should be in a week or two). Drain, rinse, rinse again and you're ready for next year!

Hopefully something in this post will help someone out there figure out a better way to do things. Our setup is nowhere near perfect and we're always looking for better ways to do things - which is why I love this web-site. I look forward to reading everyone else's posts.

Martin

Maple Hill Sugarhouse
05-16-2006, 10:11 PM
post edited

ibby458
05-17-2006, 05:12 AM
Thanks for posting the details of your operation. It gives me a better idea of another way to do things. It also makes me more aware that tubing doesn't eliminate all the labor, it just changes it to a different type done in a different time frame.

Actually, If my boys would quit growing up and moving on to their own lives, I'd stick with buckets forever. Fortunately, I still have a couple left to help gather, and a few years to make the transition to tubing. All these posts are giving me lots of informatiuon, both of what I should do, and what I shouldn't. All of it has value.

ennismaple
05-17-2006, 08:45 AM
Kevin - I'm sure we leak some vacuum with the droplines only on 2/3 of the way. The tubing that we take down every season is a mix of the green (CDL?) stuff with a bit of the old purple Lamb tubing that we haven't replaced yet. We used to leave the droplines on when we washed but found that some of the crud from the lines ended up in the droplines and spiles, no matter how much water and air was used.

One of our bushes is immediately beside a campground and a bunch of rental cottages so we have to remove the tubing or else kids will damage it. I guess our other two bushes could be left up and washed in place. Unfortunately, one of our relatives lets his hounds out for a run all the time and they end up chasing deer through our bush. We fixed a lot of damage from deer running from his dogs this past spring. A short phone call to the Ministry of Natural Resources could fix that problem but would also make things much more complicated (our water and hydro feed to the sugar camp comes from his house). I'm not quite sure how to resolve this one...

Whenever we replace any tubing it's with 4-seasons and health spiles so eventually we'll be completely switched over. It's a slow process given the time and money involved. And we're working on getting our new bush (up to 2500 more taps) thinned and ready to be set up.

ibby458 - You're right - tubing is less work while you're gathering sap and boiling but more work to set up and clean up. We're at about 4000 taps and it's a 2 person operation once we're tapped - One to boil and one to gather. I wish we had a setup that allowed us to direct all the sap to the sugarhouse but our land is too hilly and our bushes are too spread out. We normally take about 5 days to set up and 3 or 4 to clean up.

220 maple
05-18-2006, 08:12 AM
ennismaple
after reading your how we do things. I decided to jump in because your preaching to the choir here. I take my tubing down every year which is 90% 4 seasons the other 10% is Beaver River and Light Blue stuff that Leader made. I take all my drops off and then take all my spiles off to clean by hand. All my laterals are labeled slightly different with each 4 way manifold having a number. the 4 ports of the manifold are assigned letters. example looking down on the manifold lower right is A upper right is B lower left is C and upper left is D. Therefore I have 4-b and 256-a lateral line labeled. When I add a new branch main line I reference the previous manifolds number and my new branch line manifolds are A83a,B83-c,C83-c for example. I write the assigned number on each lateral with the pen that I label cow ear tags with. If old bessie struggles to wear that number off her ear tag with all the places she sticks her head to get a bite of grass, trust me the number stays on the tubing. I then soak all my laterals flush with clean water no additives. any lines with dried sap spots I run a piece of high tensile fence wire in it an roll it against the dried spots that is wet and it comes right off, flush it again roll up the tubing after the water is dried out and store them in barrels that are labeled (ex. 90- 117). Then when it time to put back out I will drop each barrel at the best place so its easy to carry the laterals back to the main lines, pull the caps off the ports that are going to be used and reattach the lateral pull to the trees that it goes back to, I tack the last tee with a small nail, with out the drops on the tees it goes up quicker. I only use 33u purple lamb tubing for my drops I like the flexibilty, I also only slip them over the first barb of the tee. I did not hear any of them leaking vacuum. I'm not happy that Leader discontinued the production of 33u. Hopefully I'll be able to get some used. The dealers close to me are hoarding all the 33u they have for themselves. I probably have a mile of 5/16 tubing that I take down and put back up by myself. Its alot of work but as friend and former sugarmaker who recently passed away would say."theres only two seasons, maple season and getting ready for maple season".

Mark 220 maple

ennismaple
05-18-2006, 11:32 AM
Thanks 220 maple. I hope I'm not coming off as preaching - I intended to share our experience and how we do things (either rightly or wrongly) and start some dialogue that can be useful to eveyone here.

I like the idea of the ear tags for labelling the lines. We cut squares of old sheet metal, label them with a black magic marker and attach between tees at the head tree with some stainless wire. Why? Because that's how my grandfather did things when we started with tubing 25 years ago and we've never bothered to change. It's been a battle with my father to get him to change the way we do things sometimes but we're slowly making progress.

I also like that you label all the lines on a manifold with the same number and then a letter to identify which nipple it connects to. If we re-do any of our numbering I like your way better.

Martin

Ed K
05-21-2006, 10:10 AM
I do a lot of the same things mentioned. Do any of you use the 5/16 quick disconects? I use them at the end trees and at the manifold. I don't take the drops off which makes it harder to roll up. Also at lateral tee lines.

ennismaple
05-23-2006, 08:10 AM
We use either the Y's at the head tree or the end hooks (sorry - I don't know their proper name but they're made by CDL). We prefer the hooks because you don't have to cut off a small piece every year like with the Y's.

We started removing our droplines every year because of how hard it was to roll the lines up and clean them properly.

I haven't tried any of the quick disconnects.

lew
05-23-2006, 08:06 PM
When we tear down our tubing, we leave the droplines on now(we used to take them off). We wash by fill a 300 gallon stock tank with a 5% solution of bleach and water. Over the tank is a reel that turns at about 20 RPM's(not exactly sure , just guessing right now. We put the rolls of tubing on this reel and let it turn for about an hour. The reel is suspended over the tank by frames on either end of the tank so that the reel is half in and hald out of the bleach solution. While it turns, the solution sloshes around inside hte tubing cleaning it quite well. As far as labeling our rolls, we have gone to using a piece of clorox jug cut into 3 inch diameter circle with a hole near the side to tie it onto the beginning of the roll. We tie it on with a piece of solid telephone wire, just one strand. The wire dosn't break down due to sunlight or bleach or water or whatever like many other strings do. On the tag we put the name of the woods (4 letter abreviation), the line number (line 1 would be the first to enter lthe mainline 2 the second and so on. A letter would be added like 1A if there were more than one roll for line one).. Initially the numbers and names would be put on the tag with permanent marker, but once back at the sugarhouse, we will use an ear tattooer like used for cattle. This makes a permanent tag by puting holes through the plastic in shape of letters. It can't wash or wear off, really permanent. It takes a while to make the tag versus a amrker, but well worth it if you have ever looked at a tag and couldn't read it. Hope this helps someone