steam hood

[highlandcattle]

I'm sure this is a question many have. The steam hood for our CDL 2x8 will cost over $1,800.00 I feel we've spent enough at this point. Anyone know of a local metal worker who could do this for a better price? Thanks

[Kngowods]

A&A just got one for a 2x8 2 doors $425

[maple flats]

I bought a SS 3x5 flue hood with 4 doors and a 3x3 SS syrup hood, both welded, each came with a 15" steam stack take off and a 15" x 4' SS stack, the one for the flues pan has a damper, each has an inverted funnel catch drain and tube to route condensation to the wide, welded drain channel. The 4 corners of the flues hood and the front corners of the syrup hood have welded half couplings so I can route condensation where I want it. I pd $800 from Thor Equipment, Quebec.

[jmayerl]

Wow a&a just quoted me $900 plus shipping for a 2x7.

[PARKER MAPLE]

Just built my own from aluminum. 3x5 for flue pan 2 large doors, and a contected but open 3x3 for the front, has a 2inx1in c channel for condensate to run out and set it up for my pre heater and drip tray. have less then 150.oo in it so far, email me I will send you a picture

[highlandcattle]

Thanks Dave. I'll try to find them on the internet. Tried to find someone around here and there's always a reason they can't get to it. When Ron has that thing going, even with the vent, and doors and windows open, it's a sauna! I refuse to pay the $1,800.00 from CDL! Waiting on a metal fabrication shop here, but they are dragging their feet too. Ron's going nuts waiting to get started real well. Take care and good luck.

[Waynehere]

A&A just got one for a 2x8 2 doors $425

Love your Avatar Kngowods.... :D

[bowtie]

whats the best way to contact A and A, looking for a steam hood and they are pretty close to me, and they pretty cheap, only need it for this year if that is possible, should have new evap next season.

[Kngowods]

Thanks waynhere. I though it was cool to. If you search this site you should be able to find A&A address if u can't maybe contact Gary R he was very helpful when I was making a decision on my evaporator, he might have there address. I went threw ray Gingrich to do my ordering pm me and I can give u his number

[mellondome]

Best way to contact A&A is to stop over. They are on collins hill. Ulysses pa.

[maple flats]

Another idea, I made my previous hood in about 4 hrs for my old 3x8 pans. I bought the sheet aluminum from Pacemaker Millar, in Utica (now called Pacemaker). I used 3x8 sheets of the thinnest gauge they had and bent it with my aluminum trim brake from my siding days. I don't remember the thickness but it over worked the brake. To make each bend, I had to add extra clamps in between the ones on the brake. The main portion of the hood was 96" long. I bent it up @ 8", went 16" @ 30 degrees for the slope and then bent it to make a flat top (to make 90 degrees when adding the first 2 bends) 11" then 1" down . My brake had a 12" max insert depth, thus the 16" slope was my start, I bent the 8" on one edge, turned the sheet around, and then the 11" on the opposite edge then the 1" lip. My next piece came up the other side of the hood, 8, 16 and 1. I pop riveted these together with the 2 lips of 1" overlapping one top corner. I then bent 1" down on each end to attach the gable ends. The portion over the syrup pan was cut off the bottom so I had access into the syrup pan. I removed 6", leaving just 2" to the first bend (I have a raised flue and the top of flue pan sat maybe 8" higher than the syrup pan. This gave me about 14" under the hood at the syrup pan.
I again pop riveted the ends on, using a 1" lip overlapping at the seam. For the doors I cut holes in the hood, 1 each side maybe 12 long x 8" high. Then I cut 1" further on each corner. I used a piece of S cleat, slid it onto the resulting 1" lips and bent them inward and back on themselves for a stiffener. I removed the s cleat. Then I cut S cleat to put on for each long side. I open the cleat a little for a sliding door. I made the doors with a piece 9.5" x 5" longer than the opening. I removed the corners on a 45, bent up a 1" lip at 90 degrees on each end and slid the doors into the s cleats.
For the drain channel I used aluminum U channel 1x1x1 and 1/8" thick. I mitered the ends and aluminum welded using some rod bought at TSC and a propane (or was it mapp gas) torch. The last corner was made to have 6" stick out to the side for a drain and then 2" down to give the drips a direction to fall and not run back to the hood. This I pop riveted to the bottom of the hood. I had my hood. 2 hrs cutting, bending and riveting, then 2 mitering, welding and riveting the condensate channel. Then I use 2 -8" take off collars (after steaming them to remove oils (they were galv., Now I would have had a tin shop make them out of aluminum. My stacks were 30 gauge galv. I had to replace these every 2 seasons because they rusted. My second set of stacks was aluminum.
My hood used 3 of the 3x8 sheets and 3- 10' U channel. I don't have the total cost anymore, sorry. 4 hrs=1 hood.