homemade float trouble

[trevor]

:mad::( tried to build my own float box. tried "roberts" 3/8" brass valve and then a stock tank valve. neither one regulates very accuratly or quickly. is this normal? similair setups on here seem to work. my pan is 2x4 flat with preheater that sets on top. i think it is a pressure problem. anybody have any advice.

[jmayerl]

I used a Roberts on my 2x6 flat and it worked great. Sap tank was about 3' higher than the valve.

[trevor]

im trying to regulate between preheater and pan. preheater only holds around five gallons. i was told these valves work best with pressurized liquid, which allows them to recover quickly, mine just trickles in. also, it has a long throw which i believe is because of the lack of pressure.

[Bucket Head]

Try shortening the threaded rod/actuating lever. The longer the rod, the more "travel" (level of liquid) it takes to open and close the valve properly, and the ajustable piece is far from what anyone would call a "fine" adjustment. These valves work well, but it does take some tinkering and trial and error to dial them in. Is the valve level? Is it working freely? They can have no "stickiness" or binding going on. Take it apart- is the seat and/or rubber plunger damaged? Again, the shorter "throw" should help it.

Steve

[psparr]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=whRR8BlfocY
Not sure if this helps, but I use the string tied to the pex pipe feeding my float box to regulate the valve. It pulls up on the valve, in turn pushing down on the float slowing down flow. Or loosening up the string to speed up flow. A lot finer adjustment than the set screw on the valve.

[trevor]

shortened the rod all the way to the valve which, is new. valve shouldnt be screwed up?. tried a stock tank valve too. this valve claims 300 gpm. i think these must both need way more psi to fill quick once they open. both valves seem to trickle and i end up with too much variance. my local "major" producer says if i came off of my head tank and skipped the preheater, it might work, help.

[Bucket Head]

"Valve is new, should'nt be screwed up?". Take it apart and check. There are no quality assurance inspectors at the "Who Flung Poo Valve Company". Chances are good this valve was made overseas.

What do you have for a float? I have Leader Evaporator floats, which are much larger than the standard toilet-type float.

You either have a defective valve or your float does not have enough bouyancy to seat the plunger firmly, causing the valve to "trickle". Try to determine if the plunger is making complete contact with the seat. If the seat or plunger bore is not straight it won't seal. Or just take it back and get another one. I'm certain you won't be the first one to walk into the plumbing supply with a "it won't shut off" complaint. Good luck.

Steve

[b116757]

I agree with Steve more than likely your float is not large enough with a shallow draft

[maple flats]

I have a spare float I'd part with from a previous evaporator. If you want to consider it, I'll get the size, but it is SS, rectangular and flat. Pure guess but might be about10" long, 5" wide and 1.5" thick with a hollow vent tube about 5/16-3/8" diameter that might be 8-10" tall. A metal float must be vented thru a high tube or such, or it will either bulge and contract with the temperature changes or might just implode after first use. PM me if interested.
Dave

[psparr]

6959
Here's my setup and it works very well. It's not vented, however I'm feeding cold sap.

[trevor]

my float is 4x8x1.5 "16oz" copper. maybe with the addition of solder, its too heavy? what size valve is everyone else using? what kind of evaporation rates, inlet / outlet size, expected variations in depth.